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Sump pump question


Uncle Gump

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So our rental house needs a sump pump replacement.

My question is about the discharge check valve. The current valve was installed in a poor place. I also didn't see hose clamps that hold it in place... I'm thinking it may be glued in?

My question is can a second check valve be put in line and leave the existing one in place?

Cutting the line in an accessible location and installing the second valve would make this job pretty easy.
 


maddyn

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where is the current check valve located? I am assuming this is just a sump pump sitting in a pump chamber in the floor, with a pvc line running out of the house? depending on elevation change or how high you are pumping the water out, it might not work to put the check in a different location. Also, some pumps have a check built into them as well, and it may not be necessary.
 

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as long as water will still pass through the existing check valve I dont see a problem with leaving it be & putting another one in.
 

Uncle Gump

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where is the current check valve located? I am assuming this is just a sump pump sitting in a pump chamber in the floor, with a pvc line running out of the house? depending on elevation change or how high you are pumping the water out, it might not work to put the check in a different location. Also, some pumps have a check built into them as well, and it may not be necessary.
You are correct... it has a submerged pump... PVC... check valve that's installed on a short piece at a 45 degree angle... then straight out the house and straight down to the pump.

The new sump pump has an in-line check with hose clamps on either end. If I were to just cut the down pipe... fit the valve... it would just be the easy button. Otherwise... I'll probably have to buy some new PVC and do it the harder way.
 

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Check valve should be as close to the pump as practical, so easy to get at if needs be, but still has the weight of the column of water in the riser pipe to hold it closed when pump is off
 

maddyn

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I would say as long as you can make it all liquid tite it should be fine
 

Uncle Gump

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That's the way it should have been done to begin with.

I'm just gonna go get the pump and have at it... with the easy button.
 

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It depends on the distance between them and height to to outlet.
You could cause a water hammer issue if there’s too much distance between them. Let say check valve #1 leaks a tiny bit, but check valve #2 holds. A large air gap can form between the 2 valves. When the pump kicks on and builds enough pressure to open valve #2, the water will fall to fill the void created from the leak. This will meet up with the water being pushed by the pump. That collision is a shock that will be felt through the entire system… known as water hammer. It can cause issues over time.
 

Uncle Gump

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Lol...

I figured the pump wouldn't have issue pumping past the two valves... never thought about air in the system.

I guess I'll still do the easy button... if they complain about it being noisy or banging around... I'll re-plumb from the new check on out.
 

Roert42

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Anything is better than a non working sump pump…. I’ve used some real hokey setups just to keep the basement from becoming an inground pool.
 

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