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SAS Leaf Spring Ques.


95XL

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I'm in the process of doing an SAS on my ranger, I've got a GM 10 Bolt from an '86 3/4 ton suburban. I want to go to a leaf sprung front end and was wondering what everybody else who is running front leaves used. I was thinking of going back to the yard and pulling the leaves out of the burban I got the axle from, cause I plan on eventually swapping an Isuzu 4BD diesel in, and that engine is heavy! So, I need a set of springs that can deal with that kind of weight. I figure if those leaves can deal with the weight of a 350 over the top of it, they should be able to deal with the diesel. (don't know exactly how much they weigh, but I do know the diesel is more than 500lbs, cause the hoist I used to pick them out of the back of my truck was rated for 500, and the brake on the hoist couldn't hold them.) The only thing I was thinking was they may be too long. Anywhoo, what are you guys running?
 


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My rear leaf pack is the classic 63" Chebbie 2wd 2.5" wide leafs, with extended shackles and 2" blocks. Lift and flex.

My front is a rear pack from a 3/4 ton 2wd Chebby with the over load and bottom leaf pulled, with extended shackles.

The extended shackles will really free up some articulation in a stiff leaf pack. Leaves are a bitch cause you want height and flex. Some times a sacrifice needs to be made.


A lot of yota guys use waggy leaf packs up front from the 80s 4wd waggy with the AMC 360. Run that soa and they say they're at about 5 or so inches of lift.
 

95XL

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So, it sounds like my best bet is gunna be the wagoneer springs? Another question I was also wondering was how much lift am I going to need to clear the oil pan, I've heard something else about crossmember clearance, can anobody clear that up for me? My grandpa has an old '70's Jeep J20 pickup (I believe thats what its called, it's a full size anyways, not one of those crappy 1/4 tons) He's getting ready to junk it, so maybe the front leaves out of that would work?

Oh yeah, another thing, am I going to want shackles in the front (towards the front bumper), or in the rear (towards the doors). I've seen them setup both ways, and I also seen them setup with no shackles at all. What setup causes what to happen with the travel and such?
 
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alaskan155

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swipe the j20 leaves should be pretty much the same as the waggy leaves and a shackle in the rear will give the better ride on the road
 

95XL

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Well, I finally got over to my grandparents house to look at those jeep springs. And, it turns out I have a choice. He has a wagoneer, and the pickup, (which is a J3000, not a J20 like I thought). The wagoneer springs have very little leaves in them compared to the J3000 packs. So, at this point I'm leaning towards using the pickup packs instead of the wagoneer packs, due to them looking a little heavier. I didn't take any measurements to tell whether they were the same length/width, but both packs do looks similar in length, just the pickup has more leaves. What do you guys think?

Oh yea, btw, 10 bolt is out, I found a Dana 60 from a 3/4 ton dodge, wayyyyy heavier than the 10 bolt.
 

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I'd think that using 1 Ton packs with a 4 cyl. would be excessively stiff. You may need to do some experimenting to find the setup you like. I'd take the pickup packs, then take leafs out if you need. How many are in each pack (Waggy vs truck)?
 

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Regarding Your question about shackles at the rear of the spring or front of the spring. With the shackle at the rear the ride is better and the steering also feels better, the main disadvantage is that you need to make sure you have a long enough slip joint on the driveshaft as the axle cycles away from the t-case as the axle drops.
 

95XL

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Uhh, thats a good question, I didn't count. I'd say there's probably around 5-7 leaves in the pickup, and 3-4 leaves in the wagoneer. Well, like I said earlier, I'm planning on swapping a 4cyl diesel into the ranger, and that thing is heavy! So, I guess my best bet is to do what you said, go with the pickup leaves, and I can always take some out if I have to.
 

95XL

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Alright, another question, where should I mount the springs on the frame? I was looking, and I think being right in line with the frame, directly under it would work, because the radius arms for the TTB are pretty much right in line with the frame, and I've never had any problems with hitting them. I'm running a 235/75-16, I think that equates to around a 31" tire, so not overly huge. What is your guys' opinions?
 

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U thought the chevy axles were pass. drop and rangers were drivers drop
-Cody
 

95XL

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U thought the chevy axles were pass. drop and rangers were drivers drop
-Cody
Ummm..... Yeah? :icon_confused: The Chevy axle is passenger drop, and the Ranger axle is drivers side drop? Not quite sure what you're trying to say with that statement?
 

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i have wagoneer springs on my truck with a 4.0 V6, but idk what year waggy the springs came off of, the vin sticker inside the door was scraped off and there was no engine.

but here's what they looked like just laying on the table



and here they are under the weight of my truck





i have no idea how much a 4bt weighs in comparison... but you may want to get some custom stronger springs made.

and with the front shackle the ride isn't that bad, its the issue i have with hitting the bump stops that makes it a rough ride.
 

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My credo
If you can't go through it or around it, then go over it.
that diesel you want to run weighs as much (if not more) than a big block and the 'Burban springs have a negative arc. I would use 3/4 ton rear springs in the front because of the lack of negative arc. Actually would use OME heavy coils meant for a FzJ80. because of the way the spring perch is set up on that axle you have to cut both sides. I would stick with a waggy axle for find a 60 from a FS ford. that 10 bolt swap can be done but not as easy as others.
 

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hows your drag link hook up? looks like the leafs are in the way????
 

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