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retro fitting mustang wheels help


ParanoidSVT

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IMG_2326.jpeg

Just made my wheel checker… now I just need it to stop raining…
 


don4331

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The welding rod "trick" just shows clearance, it doesn't show you king pin axis inclination.
p.s. if you put a couple extra bends in your welding rod, you can mimic the tires you intend to run as well. And whole wheel clearance is probably just as important as rim clearance.​

Note: The welding rod test doesn't show if the dust cap will extend beyound the rim, which is often the issue with Mustang rims on Ranger. But as @stmitch noted, 12 to 15mm spacers usually "solves" that issue.

As you are 2wd/thinking of minor lowering, you most likely won't have an issue with contacting suspension components/sheetmetal - Ford designed the Ranger to have lots of clearance with 265mm wide off road tires. So, if you're 285mm or less for tires width in front, you should be fine (you can get crazy in back with tire width (@JC4x4trucks ran T-Bird rims with 40mm offset in back without spacers and had no issues with 225mm wide tires contacting springs/box)
 

ParanoidSVT

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The welding rod "trick" just shows clearance, it doesn't show you king pin axis inclination.
p.s. if you put a couple extra bends in your welding rod, you can mimic the tires you intend to run as well. And whole wheel clearance is probably just as important as rim clearance.​

Note: The welding rod test doesn't show if the dust cap will extend beyound the rim, which is often the issue with Mustang rims on Ranger. But as @stmitch noted, 12 to 15mm spacers usually "solves" that issue.

As you are 2wd/thinking of minor lowering, you most likely won't have an issue with contacting suspension components/sheetmetal - Ford designed the Ranger to have lots of clearance with 265mm wide off road tires. So, if you're 285mm or less for tires width in front, you should be fine (you can get crazy in back with tire width (@JC4x4trucks ran T-Bird rims with 40mm offset in back without spacers and had no issues with 225mm wide tires contacting springs/box)
thank you for replying!! The tire I plan on running is a 255/45/18r

I’m now wondering if I should make a dummy rim out of some scrap I have around here.. some sheet metal and cardboard
 

rubydist

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This is what I bought: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264865316090

Get the ones that are hub-centric, they result in way less issues with not centering up the wheel. And to whomever said I needed these because I have larger center bores, that is incorrect - it is the same center bore as a Mustang.

When I put the 1.25" thick adapters on my Ranger, the front studs were perfect, but I had to trim a little length from the rear axle studs to avoid having them hitting the wheel mounting face.

The ideal with putting on different wheels is to have the center of the tire stay in the same place as factory. That means if you add 2" of rim width, you want to add 1" on the outside and 1" on the inside compared to the factory wheel. That will cause the kingpin angle to remain correct. If you put the center of the tire in a different location (inboard or outboard from factory) that makes the vehicle want to wander on ruts in the road. Since nearly all roads have small ruts or depressions where the majority of traffic runs, it makes it harder to keep the vehicle running straight. All of what I just described applies if the outside diameter of the new tire is the same as the factory tire. If you put larger diameter tires (33" v. 30" for example) then the new wheels need to be outboard farther so the kingpin angle still meets the ground at the center of the tire.
 

ParanoidSVT

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This is what I bought: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264865316090

Get the ones that are hub-centric, they result in way less issues with not centering up the wheel. And to whomever said I needed these because I have larger center bores, that is incorrect - it is the same center bore as a Mustang.

When I put the 1.25" thick adapters on my Ranger, the front studs were perfect, but I had to trim a little length from the rear axle studs to avoid having them hitting the wheel mounting face.

The ideal with putting on different wheels is to have the center of the tire stay in the same place as factory. That means if you add 2" of rim width, you want to add 1" on the outside and 1" on the inside compared to the factory wheel. That will cause the kingpin angle to remain correct. If you put the center of the tire in a different location (inboard or outboard from factory) that makes the vehicle want to wander on ruts in the road. Since nearly all roads have small ruts or depressions where the majority of traffic runs, it makes it harder to keep the vehicle running straight. All of what I just described applies if the outside diameter of the new tire is the same as the factory tire. If you put larger diameter tires (33" v. 30" for example) then the new wheels need to be outboard farther so the kingpin angle still meets the ground at the center of the tire.
Thank you for the link! I’m going to order them right now, I figured the back studs were going to need to be trimmed because I noticed they were alittle longer in the back, almost sticking out of the lug nut before I removed them

I have read what you said about the “if you add 2” I have to read it a few times and apply it to my 9” wheel with 5.9 back space

gonna read it a few more times

wicked appreciate the link!
 

ParanoidSVT

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This is what I bought: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264865316090

Get the ones that are hub-centric, they result in way less issues with not centering up the wheel. And to whomever said I needed these because I have larger center bores, that is incorrect - it is the same center bore as a Mustang.

When I put the 1.25" thick adapters on my Ranger, the front studs were perfect, but I had to trim a little length from the rear axle studs to avoid having them hitting the wheel mounting face.

The ideal with putting on different wheels is to have the center of the tire stay in the same place as factory. That means if you add 2" of rim width, you want to add 1" on the outside and 1" on the inside compared to the factory wheel. That will cause the kingpin angle to remain correct. If you put the center of the tire in a different location (inboard or outboard from factory) that makes the vehicle want to wander on ruts in the road. Since nearly all roads have small ruts or depressions where the majority of traffic runs, it makes it harder to keep the vehicle running straight. All of what I just described applies if the outside diameter of the new tire is the same as the factory tire. If you put larger diameter tires (33" v. 30" for example) then the new wheels need to be outboard farther so the kingpin angle still meets the ground at the center of the tire.
so do I have this correct… if my wheel is 9” wide, with 5.9 back space (let’s say 6”) the 1.25 wheel spacer is going to bring it out 1.25, this would almost bring that 9” wheel back to dead center

the tires I found today for the 18” wheels are 255/45/18 which are 27” tall, the tires I have on it now are 225/70/15 which is also 27” tall
 

rubydist

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That sounds good.
 

ParanoidSVT

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My uncle came by this morning he’s big into jeep 4x4s and has a ton of wheel combos over the last 10 years

he did exactly like some of you said here with a tape measure, his a wiz with math and in seconds said I’m basically going to be back to almost normal with the 1.25 spacer

it may actually be 1/4“ more sticking out but I doubt I could tell

looks like plenty of clearance from the wheel to the upper control arm too, 1/2-3/4” clearance

going to order the wheel once it gets back from the body shop next week, wheel spacers bought and waiitng for them to ship

can’t thank everyone enough here for all the help

I have a commercial account with o‘reilys. I made a part list of control arms, camber bolts, tie rod ends, and DJM, 2/3 drop kit with shocks

stock piling the parts for a weekend this winter to bring it into the garage and install it

sure would like to have the 18s on by the end of next month..
 

ParanoidSVT

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Guys I have a question… I called DJM to order the 2/3 lowering kit.. I asked to make sure the springs work for the v6… and the guy on the phone couldn’t really guarantee me they would work for the v6

has anyone used their 2/3 springs in a 3.0 and it deliver a true 2” drop in front?

he mentioned if I ask around here see what others experienced, and if the springs don’t work maybe use their lowering arms with stock v6 springs?
 

CavVet2

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a 9
Fooling around with some math…

the 18x9 has a 5.9 back space.. which gives me a 3.1 front space

factory 15x 7 wheels I have on the truck now when I measure come up with a 4” front space

if I add a 1 inch adapter it should bring the wheel out to almost the factory front face.. just curious if that now 5” back space will have clearance

again.. won’t be able to tell until I have this wheel in hand

having too much fun thinking..
A 9” wheel is computed as 10” wide when figuring backspace etc. (the lips are the extra inch)
So your “front space” would be 4.1”
 

ParanoidSVT

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Hey guys I got a question.. trucks in the body shop, delivered the bumper today. Ironically my led head lights came in

I had no idea they didn’t come with bulbs… is it worth switching my actual head light bulbs to LED? Is it a simple bulb replacement?

anyone here have any advice or experience on what bulbs they prefer?

IMG_2412.jpeg
 

ParanoidSVT

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I saw a YouTube video where he uses these bulbs on a 2006. Curious if they would work and install exactly like this on my 2004
Limited-time deal: AUXITO 9007 LED Bulbs, 15000LM Per Set 6500K Xenon White Wireless HB5 Light Bulbs for Halogen Bulbs Replacement, Pack of 2 https://a.co/d/h27vwes
 

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