Ranger 96.starts but wont turn after key cylender broke.

[Louloula]

1996 Ford ranger. Manual. 4 banger. The key cylender wore out a long time ago. I could start it w a flathead screwdriver instead of the key. But today the key would only turn half way until I wiggled it and used enough force to bend the key. One of the key cylender flower petals, a skinny one, broke off and now the radio comes on and the starter turns but there's no vroom.

The battery is way oversized and charged. I shorted the s to the plus at the solenoid, combined with the key in the on position and it he starter justtjust turns.

There r 2 brown wires and a yellow wire going into the steeringwheele base. And a black wire going into the key cylender.

Any ideas?

Can I just hotwire it and make it start? Thanks.

 

[CrabGuy]

Have you considered actually replacing the entire cylinder and ignition switch? Having to depend on a McGivered ignition switch would drive me crazy.

 

[Louloula]

I will try that eventually. Should it start with the radio on and the sstarter cranking and the key rotated all the way? What isn't being engaged or powered up? I rotated the steering wheel both ways. The clutch is in neutral. Do I activate the starter by turning the key and combine that with shorting the black wire that goes to the key cylender to the ground wire on my cigarette lighter? I could pop the clutch downhill but I doubt it would turn. Isnt it an electronics issue?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

There is a rod that runs down the steering column from the key cylinder to the ignition switch. Sounds like it isnt moving far enough to engage properly. You can probably mcgiver a solution but make sure you have a secondary way of shutting power to stop theft. I had a car that i basically hot wired and it was stolen, and there was lots of unanticipated costs....
Mainly due to me removing insurance after a week. What a mistake!

 

[Louloula]

I grounded the fuel pump relay prong and hear the fuel pump going when the key is in the full on position. Shouldn't I smell fuel after trying to start it so much? Do auto fuel injected engines flood? Still no start. What else ould it be? I never heard of a rod and dont know how to move it but I can look.

 

[Louloula]

I replaced the ignition tumbler and key. No difference.
I understand what u mean about the pushrod finally but I dont know how I could extend it.
I never smell gasoline except for that one time when I grounded the fuel pump relay prong and tried to start it. This makes me suspect that the fuel pump is not engaging due to the ignition remaining in accessory mode. The radio n lights work fine.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I suspect the switch is junk/broken.
It's been a long time since i looked at mine, but i think you should be able to see it if you get your head down by the footpedals and look up at the steering column. Iirc its about 2.5" by 3" or so and curved on the backside where it mounts to the column.

 

[Louloula]

Iirc its about 2.5" by 3" or so and curved on the backside

Thanks. Will look soon but what did u mean to type? Lirc ?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Iirc =
If i recall correctly.

 

[Louloula]

The temp.got.to 51 degrees f today. I put another starting battery it. The eengine fan turns while it's cranking and the entire engine shakes like normal showing that the serpentine belt is moving mber but still the engine wont start. The two big bolts to the starter solenoid are at 11v normally gumdrop to zero v when turning the key. The battery sofuoundsnds and turns strong. The skinny red wire at the solenoid seems a bit damaged at the connector perhaps from sparks.

 

[Louloula]

I suspect the switch is junk/broken.
It's been a long time since i looked at mine, but i think you should be able to see it if you get your head down by the footpedals and look up at the steering column. Iirc its about 2.5" by 3" or so and curved on the backside where it mounts to the column.

My steering column isn't adjustable therherefore this switch is probable behind the tumbler. I couldn't find it in the location mentioned.

Note that the sepentine belt turns when starting but no gas smell. I added some new updates.

 

[Jazzer]

You might look for the switch on Rockauto to see what you’re looking for on the truck.

-Jazzer

 

[tomw]

search for an image on the web. Look at the upper side of the steering column, closer to the instrument cluster than the ignition lock cylinder. The switch rids on the top surface, and is operated by a link to the lock cylinder.
If you randomly short stuff together, you may damage things. A new switch is cheap. Buy one and install it.
Then figure out what else is happening.
You can get a new lock cylinder and a pair of keys to fit for little outlay. Replacing a worn lock cylinder is cheaper than paying for tow and storage bills after it has been taken and dumped, if you even get it back.
Penny wise and pound foolish soon make your truck disappear or go up in smoke. Your choice.
tom

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The ignition lock cylinder may be bad, or the ignition lock switch. Here is a link to a vid for replacing the ignition switch. It is not in the same spot as i described in an earlier post.

 

[Louloula]

1996 Ford ranger. Manual. 4 banger. The key cylender wore out a long time ago. I could start it w a flathead screwdriver instead of the key. But today the key would only turn half way until I wiggled it and used enough force to bend the key. One of the key cylender flower petals, a skinny one, broke off and now the radio comes on and the starter turns but there's no vroom.

The battery is way oversized and charged. I shorted the s to the plus at the solenoid, combined with the key in the on position and it he starter justtjust turns.

There r 2 brown wires and a yellow wire going into the steeringwheele base. And a black wire going into the key cylender.

Any ideas?

Can I just hotwire it and make it start? Thanks.