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Quick U-Joint Question...


Lost Bushman

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'89 Bronco II.

Is the U-joint on the front shaft/diff the same size/part no as the one that connects the rear shaft to the diff? I ordered what I thought was the right one, but it's too small, and the local parts places all note the ones they have are either for the wheel joints or front shaft.

Thanks!
 


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'89 BII doesn't have u-joints on the rear (at least not stock they do).

The front driveshaft u-joints are Spicer 1310-series joints (same as a '94 Ranger front or rear driveshaft if you need a reference). If yours has u-joints on the rear shaft, it's not stock and you'll need to match it up with something (most likely it'll be 1310s, but could be 1210s too depending what shaft was swapped in there)
 
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Lost Bushman

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Well, that's funny because there's a joint at the back of the transfer case, a splined shaft that pulls apart at a dust boot, and another one at the rear that bolts with 4 bolts to the flange at the rear. It measures rough 3.75" between spring clamps, and it looked just like a u-joint when I pressed it out.

I can't imagine that it's not stock, everything underneath looks exactly like it's supposed to.
 

Tedybear

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My credo
Failing is easy. Everyone can do it.
It's not stock to my understanding.

Back in the day these little buggers used a GKN driveshaft (aka, the tulip type CV shaft). These where prone to early and unexpected failing. The cure/solution was to use a modified drive shaft that had U-Joints at each end.

Our local driveline shop in Syracuse (Fleet Pride) did the replacement U-Joint on ours due to the reman'd shaft using an oddball size joint. The clerk and the tech that did the work? Knows of that shaft all to well. They both said the shop used to stock the replacement ones as a complete unit that sold for about 250ish back in the day.

They where surprised to know my BII was still a survivor!

S-
 

Twister

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Autozones website listes one for the rear shaft.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2
 

Lost Bushman

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Here's some pics of what I'm working with...

Here's the two collar pieces, the one that bolts to the flange is at top on the press arbors...



Here's the shaft, the splined end is wrapped up in the bag...



Here's the flange piece at the rear...



After re-measuring, the distance between spring clips is 3 1/2" and the cup diameter is roughly 1 1/16"...

Also, I scoured Autozone's website, and the one it lists for "all locations" on the '89 is not right, because that's what I have.
 

kimcrwbr1

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You may need to take the old one to the part store and compare it side to side. are the caps the same size. Is everything stock who knows what someone might have done the F-150 has u-joints that are 3.78 inches spring to spring with two different size caps. You just need to match up to what you have!
 

Lost Bushman

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You may need to take the old one to the part store and compare it side to side. are the caps the same size. Is everything stock who knows what someone might have done the F-150 has u-joints that are 3.78 inches spring to spring with two different size caps. You just need to match up to what you have!
That's what I would do, IF I hadn't tossed the original on trash day...:annoyed:
 

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That does sound about the size of a 1310... (definitely not a 1210)

try a front u-joint in it. If it's 1310, it should fit.

Take that rear flange piece (sitting on your press) with you when you go to the store so you can compare it.
 
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kimcrwbr1

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I allways replace the U-joints as a set while it is apart they are cheap and too important. Also what condition are the splines in? I had a driveline rebuilt once for my intl scout (corn binder) it made all the difference in the world. It also had bastard type U-joints with different size caps.
 

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Not sure how to post links or if this will help you... Dufftuff.com, bronco ii section, drivetrain... They have also helped me over the phone..
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1375229410.888893.jpg
 

Lost Bushman

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Thanks for all the help, guys. I went and got the micrometer out for accurate measurements and here's what I got... (All figures rounded up)

Flange
Cup Diameter: 1.06
Spring to Spring Distance: 3.63
Total Distance: 3.99

Shaft
Cup Diameter: 1.05
Spring to Spring Distance: 3.59
Total Distance: 3.87
 

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Anytime, glad it helped....
 

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Autozones website listes one for the rear shaft.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2
That is because you can buy brand new replacement rear shafts with u-joints, and the CV style is no longer produced (at least to my knowledge.)

Thanks for all the help, guys. I went and got the micrometer out for accurate measurements and here's what I got... (All figures rounded up)

Flange
Cup Diameter: 1.06
Spring to Spring Distance: 3.63
Total Distance: 3.99

Shaft
Cup Diameter: 1.05
Spring to Spring Distance: 3.59
Total Distance: 3.87
That is correct for a 1310 series u-joint. The slight variance in your measurements isn't a big deal. A 1210 style joint will have the same size caps, but about an inch less wide. Much smaller. I have only seen the 1210 stuff on 83-86 Ranger rear shafts and NONE on Bronco II's.

Also, the parts stores will probably not know what you want if you go in and ask for a 1310 u-joint (and there are several different styles of 1310's anyway - front axle shafts, driveshaft style, different clips, etc.) 1310 is a Spicer series number that just denotes cap size and width. You need a vehicle for them look up, I'd suggest an early 90's Ranger, rear shaft, as these 99% of the time are 1310 style.

FYI, the "cups" are actually called "caps" and the "springs" are known as "ears." :icon_thumby:
 

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