Questions on d28 to d35 ttb swap and 7.5 to 8.8 swap

[Zapper]

So currently thanks to stupid previous owners my front and rear axles are done for, the front diff is quite literally grenaded since i can hear and the pinion and ring gear finishing themselves off and the rear diff is pretty sloppy and it isnt ujoint slop since i regularly grease those, so how would one go about doing this without a 2 post lift and just basic hand tools? And would i have to modify anything?

 

[Shran]

The hardest part is going to be loosening the radius arm to axle beam pinch bolt/nuts and the coil spring retainer nut... and then just the physical act of removing everything and putting the new parts in, they're kinda heavy. I find it's easiest to separate the axle into two pieces rather than fight it while the steering and axle shafts are holding it together.

Your whole project is easily doable without a lift and with basic tools. An impact wrench will help quite a bit. No modifications are necessary but you do need the steering linkage from the donor vehicle and you will need an alignment after you're done.

I've removed and installed many, many TTB axles including several in my yard in the dirt... and I don't have a lift either... you can do it.

 

[gaz]

Zapper,

If you get your 8.8 from an Explorer, it will need the spring perches relocated. I suggest I stalling new bushings while it's apart. If your budget permits, rebuild the axles prior to installation; it occured to me to do this when I swapped and it is prudent money, well spent ..)

TOOLS;
1) I needed an angle level to determine my pinion angle on the original axle.
2) I made a special tool for the coil retaining nuts. I welded the deep socket to an 8", ½" drive extension.
3) I had to work my first 2 axle swaps by hand, Shran is so right, air and an impact with save a ton of time and effort.

 

[don4331]

@gaz - you're behind the times Lithium ion batteries and impact.

I do like the idea of updating all the pieces that wear - bushings, u-joints, ball joints, bearings, brakes/replacing oil when you have it 1/2 way apart anyways if you can afford it.​

​

4) Jack stands.
5) Hydraulic jack + couple ratchet straps are really nice for easing things into place
6) What I would call an alignment punch, so when the beam arm bushing is almost lined up on the frame bracket, you can jam a substantial tool in to persuade it the rest of the way.
7) Beverages

@Shran - When you're pulling it apart, isn't it easier to just undo the radius arms; you probably want to replace those bushings too + the axle beams, springs/shocks/calipers? Then, if you need to swap the radius arms to the new beams you can be fighting with it on the tailgate, not under the truck. And technically, can't you do 1 side at a time - lessening the risk of falling and someone/thing getting hurt??

I haven't done a TTB in forever, but that's what I remember.

 

[scotts90ranger]

For the radius arms, you can use D28 arms on a D35 to get the double shear setup instead of the stud like on D35 arms, which also lets you not have to pull the steel sleeve on the shocks he's running now.

The biggest deal breaker on what you're talking about is the pumpkin is about 1" longer on the D35, and an inch on the 8.8 so both driveshafts might need shortened... I cheated when I swapped, I grabbed a 1354 and stock front shaft for it (only available with a D35) and since I was lifting I used the stock rear shaft, which could have used an inch of shortening due to axle wrap... went through a transfer case and a couple radiators from that...

 

[Shran]

@Shran - When you're pulling it apart, isn't it easier to just undo the radius arms; you probably want to replace those bushings too + the axle beams, springs/shocks/calipers? Then, if you need to swap the radius arms to the new beams you can be fighting with it on the tailgate, not under the truck. And technically, can't you do 1 side at a time - lessening the risk of falling and someone/thing getting hurt??

I haven't done a TTB in forever, but that's what I remember.

Yep. Loosen the pinch bolts so that the arms will pivot, remove the nut securing the radius arm, pull the whole mess out. MUCH easier to do one side at a time, fighting both at once is a floppy mess.

If you have a transmission jack or ATV/lawnmower/motorcycle jack, that makes real quick work of it.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I didn't monkey with anything, just dropped the D28 out.







Three years later I remember fighting to get heavy unbalanced D35 in a lot more than getting the D28 out.

 

[dvdswan]

I didn't monkey with anything, just dropped the D28 out.





Three years later I remember fighting to get heavy unbalanced D35 in a lot more than getting the D28 out.

Holy earthquakes @85_Ranger4x4
I think you might want to patchwork on you garage floor. Or better yet... lay a new slab. LOL That can't be fun for your floor jack.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Holy earthquakes @85_Ranger4x4
I think you might want to patchwork on you garage floor. Or better yet... lay a new slab. LOL That can't be fun for your floor jack.

With enough momentum you can move mountains

 

[dvdswan]

With enough momentum you can move mountains

so its all downhill from there.

 

[sgtsandman]

My garage floor looks a lot like that. You'll be surprised what you can do as long as there isn't weight on the jack and a piece of zip tie laying in the path you want to move...

 

[Zapper]

@gaz - you're behind the times Lithium ion batteries and impact.

I do like the idea of updating all the pieces that wear - bushings, u-joints, ball joints, bearings, brakes/replacing oil when you have it 1/2 way apart anyways if you can afford it.​

​

4) Jack stands.
5) Hydraulic jack + couple ratchet straps are really nice for easing things into place
6) What I would call an alignment punch, so when the beam arm bushing is almost lined up on the frame bracket, you can jam a substantial tool in to persuade it the rest of the way.
7) Beverages

@Shran - When you're pulling it apart, isn't it easier to just undo the radius arms; you probably want to replace those bushings too + the axle beams, springs/shocks/calipers? Then, if you need to swap the radius arms to the new beams you can be fighting with it on the tailgate, not under the truck. And technically, can't you do 1 side at a time - lessening the risk of falling and someone/thing getting hurt??

I haven't done a TTB in forever, but that's what I remember.

Ive definitely got a impact thats better than our air ones.... i got a Milwaukee 1/2 and that thing is really great to have. I was most likely going to rebuild them but ill probably take them to a shop to do that since they will likely need re geared and i dont have the tools for that.