Parking Brake Mechanism : COMPLETE INSANITY

[eightynine4x4]

Hey all,
89 Ranger Standard Cab Auto 4x4
So I need to install new parking brake cable, the very front one that goes into the mechanism and down out under body.
I've already fully rebuilt the entire rear brake system and all parking brake cables. Only thing left is the front cable.
My mechanism seems to work fine, despite not really being able to test it since i have no tension in the cable fragment that's sitting there drooping under truck.
I'd love to remove the assembly to refurb it, and tried really darn hard, but like hell if i'm ever getting that thing out. One bolt now spins freely because the clip nut behind fender was rusted fully and busted to pieces. Other bolt is so damn difficult to get at with leverage that after an hour or so at just that one i gave up. I'm just assuming it's also going to break if i get it turning. And then i'll be left with a permanently wiggling and jiggling useless foot stomp.
So i'm wondering.. is it possible to install the new cable into the assembly without removing the assembly? I can't for the life of me even get a glimpse of how the cable is situated in there though. In fact, i'm confused because i think the OEM cable has a straight cylinder as its end, where as the replacement i got from Rock Auto has a horizontal cylinder on the cable end. Definitely concerned about that. But i can't even tell if it will make a difference because i can't see back in there.
Hard to find much info on these mechanisms though. I did find this, but it's not much...
Anybody have any information or advice?
Thank you!

 

[XLTsplash]

You can replace the cable without removing the parking brake control from the vehicle. Unhook the cable from under the truck. Then push the cable towards the parking brake control to get enough stack in the cable to remove the cable end from the control. Then you can use and 1/2" 12 point box end wrench or a small worm type hose clamp to compress the metal tabs on the cable housing, so that you can remove it from the control. I pulled a parking brake control out of a Ranger at Pick N Pull and had the problem with the spinning nut on the other side. I ended up unbolting the fender to get to it.

 

[eightynine4x4]

You can replace the cable without removing the parking brake control from the vehicle. Unhook the cable from under the truck. Then push the cable towards the parking brake control to get enough stack in the cable to remove the cable end from the control. Then you can use and 1/2" 12 point box end wrench or a small worm type hose clamp to compress the metal tabs on the cable housing, so that you can remove it from the control. I pulled a parking brake control out of a Ranger at Pick N Pull and had the problem with the spinning nut on the other side. I ended up unbolting the fender to get to it.

Thank you for that! It still sounds like a nightmare haha. The thought of being stuck creating high tension with your digging around and zero visibility.... oof.
I haven't been able to get much of a glimpse back there, but i did figure out that I could probably keep the cable that's in there. I do have the replacement cable on hand since i bought all of them at once, but the cable in there seems to move ok so far. I sprayed some lube into the cable ends, but even before that it was moving. So I may be off the hook. Would love to do the replacement but this little job is a bear so may as well just let the functional cable keeping operating.
If it ain't broke...

 

[eightynine4x4]

Well gosh I take that back...
Was taking a photo of this mystery black/orange wire with a loose connector dangling next to the assembly to figure out what it goes to, and in the photo I noticed that the cable end is now sitting right there in plain sight. Don't think it was like that before. It's just above that parking brake electronic switch connection.
Earlier today I pulled on the cable from under the truck so as to bring it all the way to the tensioner and hook it up. I successfully hooked it all together at the tensioner while the tensioner was at its loosest state. I was planning to put the nut onto the tensioner bolt tomorrow and try tensioning the system.
But I suppose this is way too slack, and that the cable end needs to be way up into the mechanism somewhere?
If so, I may as well get it back into position using the new cable instead.

This seems strange though, because it was pretty difficult to bring the end of this cable under the truck all the way to the tensioner bracket and hook it up. I can't imagine making this connection if this interior end is supposed to be like 6-8 more inches tucked up into the mechanism.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Ok, it really looks like my parking mechanism is easier than I realized.
I found good photos of a 90-97 Thunderbird Cougar mechanism (below) and they sure spell a better scenario. It looks like I have the same little hookup point for the cable end that this one in pics has. See those little hookups? Mine has that too if you look at the pic just posted. With the way that entry hole is designed for the end peg piece, and with the way it swivels as it’s pulled from the cable mount, it’s gotta be the spot the cable ends at. Mine is an 89.. maybe 83-88 all had the older mechanism that had the cable going way up into gears, and they simplified it at the 89 redesign? Mine isn’t exactly the same, like the electronic switch is in a different spot. But that swivel hookup looks like mine.
In any case, I’m going to run with the theory and go ahead and install the new cable this way and see how it goes with tensioning.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Finished the job. Installed the new cable up front. Wasn’t that easy getting old one removed from the hole at the body but got it out. Installing new one was fairly straight forward.
Underneath the truck it was challenging to bring the two connections together but only becuse there was a giant obstruction that I hadn’t realized was some aftermarket plate of metal for something or other. Had been there all along, was hanging from body mount, directly in the way of the parking brake wiring. Crazy to think that someone cares so little about having a parking brake that they added truck mods in the way of it. So I deleted it and then the hookup was easier. Huzzah! Brand new parking brake system including all new rear brakes which had already been done.

Btw the one just pictured is definitely how it works. So for others that find this thread and may be confused by the older version of e brake assembly.. take note of the dangling hookup and see if yours has it. Cable doesn’t go up and into gears like older versions.

 

[sgtsandman]

There are a good number of people that never use their parking brake. So, never give something like them being hooked up, let alone being functional, a second thought.

I saw the after math of a neighbor’s parking pawl letting loose once. The truck rolled right down the hill and into a tree in another neighbor’s yard. Thankfully, no one else’s properly was damaged.

In any case, I’m glad to see you are taking the effort to get it working again.

 

[fixizin]

Sure miss the hand-brake version found on Ye Olde Courier/B2000 models... though I never had to replace the cable, or even adjust it in the 7 years/120k miles I had it, so not sure it was (or was not) any better in regards to the cabling...

 

[4x4prepper]

Well, almost all the brake assemblies are basically the same for the ones on the left side on the earlier Fords. I think I am using a 1978 E-100 pedal in my current B2. If I had a choice, I would probably go with an Aerostar between the seats set up that has a self-adjuster that actually works. The strongest between the seat parking brake I have personally seen was a 1970s/80s Alfa Romeo. Beefy cables and when you pulled up and it ratcheted on the pawls, it was not going anywhere, rear parking brake was solid.