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One for the ignition gurus...


Doug Burgoyne

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Hey folks, I'm replacing stock set up in my 1984 2.8 with points distributor from 1974 mustang II along with non feedback 2150 style carb. I had just put fresh factory recommended motorcraft spark plugs for original tfi ignition. Gap is .044. Looking at 74 mustang II specs for dwell, timing, etc., and it shows .034 for plugs (assuming due to less spark energy with points vs tfi). I'm running stock coil with 1.5 ohm ballast resistor in line from "run" wire to coil along with 12v "start" wire. Just ground wire from coil to condenser. I'd like to keep the new plugs, just pull them and regap to the .034 specs. Do you see any problem with this plan? If I have to, I'll replace them (already replacing brand new rotor, cap, and wires I just installed for tfi dist., since none work on points dist.) Thx!
 


RobbieD

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Hopefully @19Walt93 will see this and weigh in. He's got the experience and I'd go with any advice he has on your best plug range and gap.
 

19Walt93

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Most everything with points ran .035 plug gaps, I don't think it'll have enough spark to run .044. I had a Chinese made Pertronix distributor in my 351 at first and it was junk but I've had good luck with the Texas made Pertronix drop in electronic ignition. I'd get one of those unless you really enjoy replacing points.
 

Doug Burgoyne

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Hi 19walt93! Was planning to regap to .035 to match spec for car this distributor came from, thanks for confirming! Was concerned the plug type might be different, was trying to find info on that. The 74 mustang II does call for different motorcraft plug part #...but it shares the #42 in the part number with the stock tfi plugs I bought. From what I gather, they should work provided gap is correct, and the difference in part number had to do with the way the head is tapped. Full thread vs half thread, etc. I won't sweat it. Starting with nos original bosch points and new motorcraft condenser, along with new cap, rotor, wires. Not opposed to pertronix, about $130 is all. BUT I'll only drive this truck maybe 2000-3000 miles a year...so wouldn't be replacing very often. But main reason I was holding on pertronix is I have a 78 duraspark distributor i need to have rebushed... as I'd prefer that set up even over pertronix i think.
 

19Walt93

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My credo
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I replaced my Pertronix Billet Flamethrower with a Chinese made Napa distributor becuase the centrifugal advance had an 8 second delay. I would have bought a reman Ford unit but I knew I'd have to install a steel gear to work with the roller cam. The procedure to change the gear requires drilling a new hole through the shaft for the roll pin, if it's been drilled once before, the shaft is junk and I didn't think I'd find one with a virgin shaft.
Motorcraft plug number format has changed, this is the old format: The "42" indicates the heat range, a 14mm plug would begin with "A", 18mm plugs begine with "B". The next letter used to be "R" for resistor plugs but changed to "S" for suppessor years ago. ARF42 and ASF42 are interchangeable. Add a "C" after the 42 and it's a copper core plug, "P" is a platinum core, etc. My GT40 heads require a long reach plug, AGSF42C.
 

Doug Burgoyne

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Thanks for making sense out of plug numbers! I was finding some info but I think it was confusing due to the changes over the years, etc. Thx again.
 

Doug Burgoyne

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I replaced my Pertronix Billet Flamethrower with a Chinese made Napa distributor becuase the centrifugal advance had an 8 second delay. GT40 heads require a long reach plug, AGSF42C.
Was that flamethrower for a 2.8 ford engine (I'm guessing probably a later version, different engine)? Never seen a chinese made dist for 2.8 either. You'd think that flamethrower would be able to be re-curved, different weights, etc. My understanding for cologne engines is we have 3 basic options: 1. keep tfi setup (and set initial timing advance way up if running without ecu). 2. remove ecu and smog crap and add points dist from 74 mustang II (this is what I just did, may add pertronix module to replace points). 3. go duraspark if you can find a dizzy (good freakin luck on that one...I have one, but super sloppy bushings and needs to be rebuilt to be useable). Learning so much about electrical and ignition stuff on this project though, which is good.
 

19Walt93

Well-Known Member
Ford Technician
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Nov 13, 2018
Messages
4,431
Reaction score
4,327
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113
Location
Canaan,NH
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
351
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Drop
3"
Tire Size
235/55R16
My credo
If you don't have time to do it right will you have time to do it over?
Was that flamethrower for a 2.8 ford engine (I'm guessing probably a later version, different engine)? Never seen a chinese made dist for 2.8 either. You'd think that flamethrower would be able to be re-curved, different weights, etc. My understanding for cologne engines is we have 3 basic options: 1. keep tfi setup (and set initial timing advance way up if running without ecu). 2. remove ecu and smog crap and add points dist from 74 mustang II (this is what I just did, may add pertronix module to replace points). 3. go duraspark if you can find a dizzy (good freakin luck on that one...I have one, but super sloppy bushings and needs to be rebuilt to be useable). Learning so much about electrical and ignition stuff on this project though, which is good.
Nope, my truck has a 351. I'd go with the Pertronix drop in unit to replace your points. If you use the TFI distributor with the timing advanced enough to run good at speed it will either not start or kick back something fierce.
 

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