dogboy
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2007
- Messages
- 1,590
- Reaction score
- 14
- Age
- 33
- Location
- Enumclaw/ Carbonado, WA
- Vehicle Year
- '93
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 4.0L
- Transmission
- Manual
I have searched thoroughly in the past, and did a quick search just now, but didn't see anything new. I know this is a long post, but if you guys could PLEASE help me, I would appreciate it!!!
I hate throwing parts at a problem, but I have been only because I have the spare parts off of the Explorer.
Ever since late October, I have been having an endless issue with my 4.0L... An odd lack of power, and 10-11mpg. I am getting the codes of "bank 1 sensed lean", and "bank 2 sensed rich", as well, and the light will come on and go off at random during a drive.
I did the M5OD swap in it in mid October, but did not swap the computer, I am still running the auto computer, but I don't think that is my problem. It ran JUST fine for about 2 weeks after the swap. And at that 2 week mark, my battery was completely shot (had been bad for a couple months, but met it's last day), yet under Les Schwab's warranty, so after jumping the truck, I took the truck down there. It ran fine for about 5 minutes after leaving their parking lot, then shit hit the fan. It had a COMPLETE lack of power, as in 3500rpm at 45mph, and it would not accelerate, lack. But then as if somebody flipped a switch, "most" of the power would come back, then a 30 seconds later, it would pop back into it's complete lack of power mode again, and would continue to switch back and forth at random. It only did the problem EXACTLY like that (in severity), that one day, after that I just had a constant mild lack of power, but a bad lack under about 2500rpm's. But if I accelerate, once I get to about 2500 it usually snaps out of it, almost like somebody flipped a switch, or bad turbo lag or something.
Me and my auto shop teacher suspected dirty injectors. But I first replaced the IAC valve with one off my parts Explorer due to the rpm's not normally coming below 1000rpm at stop lights, that didn't do anything, and neither did cleaning it. Then I replaced the MAF sensor with the Explorer's, and it ran slightly better, so I cleaned it, and it didn't make a difference. Then I tested the Throttle position sensor, and it tested good. That was all back in December.
Fast forward to last Thursday (yes I dealt with the problem for 2 months without changing anything) I cleaned the injectors with the chemicals and cleaning tools in our auto shop at school (not an in-tank cleaner). At the same time, I realized that the vacuum (it has 21psi of vacuum by the way) line going to the fuel pressure regulator was not connected, just hanging there, so I connected it, REALLY hoping that between the injectors and plugging the regulator back in, that my problem would go away. The regulator sort of made sense as a cause to my problem as well. Too much fuel (bad mileage) and pouring too much fuel down it's throat at low rpms would cause a lack of power, until higher rpm's. No luck.
Then on Saturday, I replaced the O2 sensors with the Explorer ones to see what happened. Replacing the drivers side didn't do much, but the problem almost went away after replacing the passenger's side, only problem was a slight lack of power at all times that was no where near as bad as before, no insta-power/ turbo lag anymore. My teacher had told me that it is wise to replace the plugs after using the injector cleaner, so I thought that might finish it off (plugs were new in early November). But instead of helping the problem, the lack of power, and insta-power problem came back. So I put the old plugs back in, which were gaped at .040", not .054" (why, I don't know...) like the new plugs, but the problem is still there...
So, here's what I have checked, or replaced:
plugs/ wires (tested wires)
injectors
TPS
IAC valve
MAF sensor
Fuel filter
O2 sensors (both)
Air filter
Thermostat (last June)
What would connecting the battery backwards do, would it cause symptoms like these? I am almost thinking that Les Schwab connected the batter backwards and screwed up the computer or something. I'm just baffled by the "intermittent-ness" of the problem, it is not constant. I would think a computer problem would be constant maybe.
Do you guys think that havign the regulator's vacuum unplugged for who knows how long, could have done anything?
It has also been hooked up to the Scope in my shop class as well, and all the plugs were firing like they were supposed to, but the problem really comes out, when you drive it, so I guess they could still somehow be misfiring when on the road, but not at an idle.
Thank you for any help, I will really appreciate it.
I hate throwing parts at a problem, but I have been only because I have the spare parts off of the Explorer.
Ever since late October, I have been having an endless issue with my 4.0L... An odd lack of power, and 10-11mpg. I am getting the codes of "bank 1 sensed lean", and "bank 2 sensed rich", as well, and the light will come on and go off at random during a drive.
I did the M5OD swap in it in mid October, but did not swap the computer, I am still running the auto computer, but I don't think that is my problem. It ran JUST fine for about 2 weeks after the swap. And at that 2 week mark, my battery was completely shot (had been bad for a couple months, but met it's last day), yet under Les Schwab's warranty, so after jumping the truck, I took the truck down there. It ran fine for about 5 minutes after leaving their parking lot, then shit hit the fan. It had a COMPLETE lack of power, as in 3500rpm at 45mph, and it would not accelerate, lack. But then as if somebody flipped a switch, "most" of the power would come back, then a 30 seconds later, it would pop back into it's complete lack of power mode again, and would continue to switch back and forth at random. It only did the problem EXACTLY like that (in severity), that one day, after that I just had a constant mild lack of power, but a bad lack under about 2500rpm's. But if I accelerate, once I get to about 2500 it usually snaps out of it, almost like somebody flipped a switch, or bad turbo lag or something.
Me and my auto shop teacher suspected dirty injectors. But I first replaced the IAC valve with one off my parts Explorer due to the rpm's not normally coming below 1000rpm at stop lights, that didn't do anything, and neither did cleaning it. Then I replaced the MAF sensor with the Explorer's, and it ran slightly better, so I cleaned it, and it didn't make a difference. Then I tested the Throttle position sensor, and it tested good. That was all back in December.
Fast forward to last Thursday (yes I dealt with the problem for 2 months without changing anything) I cleaned the injectors with the chemicals and cleaning tools in our auto shop at school (not an in-tank cleaner). At the same time, I realized that the vacuum (it has 21psi of vacuum by the way) line going to the fuel pressure regulator was not connected, just hanging there, so I connected it, REALLY hoping that between the injectors and plugging the regulator back in, that my problem would go away. The regulator sort of made sense as a cause to my problem as well. Too much fuel (bad mileage) and pouring too much fuel down it's throat at low rpms would cause a lack of power, until higher rpm's. No luck.
Then on Saturday, I replaced the O2 sensors with the Explorer ones to see what happened. Replacing the drivers side didn't do much, but the problem almost went away after replacing the passenger's side, only problem was a slight lack of power at all times that was no where near as bad as before, no insta-power/ turbo lag anymore. My teacher had told me that it is wise to replace the plugs after using the injector cleaner, so I thought that might finish it off (plugs were new in early November). But instead of helping the problem, the lack of power, and insta-power problem came back. So I put the old plugs back in, which were gaped at .040", not .054" (why, I don't know...) like the new plugs, but the problem is still there...
So, here's what I have checked, or replaced:
plugs/ wires (tested wires)
injectors
TPS
IAC valve
MAF sensor
Fuel filter
O2 sensors (both)
Air filter
Thermostat (last June)
What would connecting the battery backwards do, would it cause symptoms like these? I am almost thinking that Les Schwab connected the batter backwards and screwed up the computer or something. I'm just baffled by the "intermittent-ness" of the problem, it is not constant. I would think a computer problem would be constant maybe.
Do you guys think that havign the regulator's vacuum unplugged for who knows how long, could have done anything?
It has also been hooked up to the Scope in my shop class as well, and all the plugs were firing like they were supposed to, but the problem really comes out, when you drive it, so I guess they could still somehow be misfiring when on the road, but not at an idle.
Thank you for any help, I will really appreciate it.