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My New House & Workshop


ericbphoto

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My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
Started running the PEX 1/2" water line. I had to cut out this end stud to run the 90-degree elbow through it.

The Sharkbite elbows are to bulky for this spot, and using a brass fitting with a crimped ring will last longer.... as long as I don't screw it up crimping it.

Not going to lie, this is my first using a PEX crimping tool and making these connections.

The Sharkbite crimping tool came with this metal gauge that goes over the ring to check it after you crimp it.
If you did it right the 1/2 GO will fit. If you didn't crimp it all the way it will only fit in the 1/2 NO GO.
I used a Sharkbite T-Fitting and 90-degree elbow to come off of the main waterline. These push on fittings have an O-ring in them and allows them to be turned when installed. This made it a lot more forgiving trying to line up the line for the toilet to connect with the main line. The crimp connections don't budge, so you have to be exact in your pipe alignments.

That chrome cover plate at the toilet isn't attached. I just slid it on to see how far it's going to space the valve. It has a chrome tube that covers the PEX between the wall plate and the valve.
I ordered an EcoSmart ECO 8 Tankless Water Heater that should be here tomorrow. It should give me 105 degrees F at 1.2 Gallons Per Minute (GPM) which should be wide open on my bathroom sink. The water would be hotter if the faucet was only open halfway lowering the GPM. This is all based off of the incoming water temperature.

In the winter I actually turn my water heater in my house up a little to get hot shower water, and then turn it back down when it gets warm out again. My shower has a single knob that I crank to the full hot setting, but it must still allow some cold water to mix in. So, when the ground water gets cooler, so does my shower.

I didn't like these 2x4's that I pieced down the end stud for the new drywall to attach to, so I removed them and cut and notched a new 2x4 to fit. I also added boxes for a switch and light fixture and ran wire.
I still need to install the met clamps that hold the wire in the metal boxes. I ran out.

I also added another 2x4 stud to fill an unusually wide gap in the framing. I didn't go all the way to the floor because the plumbing is in the way.
I started putting the brick panel up over the cinderblock wall. Two of the walls (the outside walls) will be brick, and the inside wall to the right and the one to the left of the door will be paneling painted white.

I really don't want to cover the walls until the plumbing is done and I know it isn't going to leak.

So for now, I'm just figuring shit out as I go. LOL.
Looks great. I don't know if you're aware of it or not. But there are little metal plates you can hammer onto the studs at locations where there are pipes or cables running through them. The plates protect the pipes and cables from nails and screws when you're putting the wall covering on. Costs a couple bucks initially. But saves a lot of headache later
 


Jim Oaks

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Looks great. I don't know if you're aware of it or not. But there are little metal plates you can hammer onto the studs at locations where there are pipes or cables running through them. The plates protect the pipes and cables from nails and screws when you're putting the wall covering on. Costs a couple bucks initially. But saves a lot of headache later
I am. I considered those. I'll look for them when I go back for more plumbing supplies.
 

RobbieD

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The brick motif for an outhouse décor shows pure design genius. It will definitely be a throne room fit for a king. :icon_thumby:
 

Shran

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I would probably replace that meter can and mast with new stuff - you can reuse the mast part if you want, it's just a piece of pipe - and doing that is very easy but you need to read up on electrical code regarding those a bit as the mast has to be a certain height from the roof and maybe off the ground as well, and the meter itself has to be at a certain height. Maybe it's all fine already - just have to double check that.

You will have to get new wire from the meter to the mast, hardware stores or electrical supply places will have it in stock and sell it by the foot. 3 conductor wire sized according to the amp rating of the service you have coming into the building is what you need. Aluminum wire is fine here and inexpensive. Probably will need a new ground rod and that will need to be tied into the meter and your breaker panel.

Doing all that is really straightforward once you have an idea what you need, there are a bunch of little things like conduit bushings & stuff that you're supposed to use that are just not obviously needed. I wired my entire shop from the mast all the way down to every outlet with just a couple hours of advise from my old boss who was an electrician and the inspector said it looked great. Electrical is not hard if you have someone to ask about technical issues.
 

Jim Oaks

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I would probably replace that meter can and mast with new stuff - you can reuse the mast part if you want, it's just a piece of pipe - and doing that is very easy but you need to read up on electrical code regarding those a bit as the mast has to be a certain height from the roof and maybe off the ground as well, and the meter itself has to be at a certain height. Maybe it's all fine already - just have to double check that.

You will have to get new wire from the meter to the mast, hardware stores or electrical supply places will have it in stock and sell it by the foot. 3 conductor wire sized according to the amp rating of the service you have coming into the building is what you need. Aluminum wire is fine here and inexpensive. Probably will need a new ground rod and that will need to be tied into the meter and your breaker panel.

Doing all that is really straightforward once you have an idea what you need, there are a bunch of little things like conduit bushings & stuff that you're supposed to use that are just not obviously needed. I wired my entire shop from the mast all the way down to every outlet with just a couple hours of advise from my old boss who was an electrician and the inspector said it looked great. Electrical is not hard if you have someone to ask about technical issues.
Thanks Shran. I hadn't thought about running the wire between the meter and the panel and from the meter up the mast. I have a book on building and remodeling that discusses service drops. I'll have to look into it.
 

franklin2

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It's a very common practice to make a 2x6 stud wall where there are going to be a lot of pipes in the wall. They also sometimes put two, 2x4 stud walls side be side for the same reason. It can also give you more depth for a flush mounted medicine cabinet.
 
Last edited:

Jim Oaks

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I went to buy 8-gauge Romex to hook up my water heater.

Why is 8/2 Romex stranded and not a solid wire like 12/2 Romex? I was questioning whether I got the right wire, but I don't see an 8/2 solid Romex.

EDIT:

Just looked at my wiring book. Looks like 8ga and larger is all stranded.
 

snoranger

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Flexibility. Solid 8ga wire wouldn’t be very flexible and inside of walls only have so much room for wires to bend.
Solid wire can handle more power vs the same size stranded wire (up to a certain point). After that point, skin depth comes into play… where power only flows on the outside of the wire strand. You will never run into that in typical household wiring. (Somewhere around 11/16” diameter wire at our normal 60 hertz, IIRC.)
 

Jim Oaks

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Why can't anything just work the way it's suppose to?

I turned on the water to valve to check my plumbing, and was thrilled to find no leaks.

But then I opened a valve to let the water run, and there was no water.

WTF!! :pissedoff::flipoff::temper:

Then I rembered that when I replaced a section of water line going to my house late last summer that the water didn't come on right away.

I suspect that the line is air looked since it's been shut off for years.

I also decided to check to make sure the water is coming from the house and not another meter.

1000022129.jpg
I dug on the backside of this spigot. I already know the there's a water line on the other side that runs to the house because I replaced it, and there isn't any line running off of the main between here and the meter.

As I was digging I discovered a 3/8-inch copper line running towards the shop.

I dug outside the shop and found the 3/8-inch copper line running under my shop, and now understand why there was a cable buried near this spigot. Likely do a metal detector would detect it.

1000022134.jpg

I didn't find any shut off for this line.

Who the F runs a 3/8-inch copper line 40 feet to a sink and toilet in another building. I figured it was 3/4-inch. Maybe even 1/2-inch. Not 3/8's. WTF.

I still plan to replace the water line from this spigot to the water meter with PEX. I could also replaced this line with a larger PEX line, but I would have to run a new line inside the building. Instead of cutting up the floor I wonder if I could run it along the base of the wall at the floor??

A cabinet and sink goes here. The shop is on the other side of the wall where the brick panel is. I could run it through the wall and connect to my new plumbing. 🤷‍♂️

1000022141.jpg

In the meantime, I need to figure out how to get the water flowing.
 

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ericbphoto

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My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
Sure, why not. Another possibility would be to run it up into the attic and then down into the wall where you need it. Give it some insulation in case the weather ever gets cold.
 

Rick W

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97 stock, 3” on 87
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N/A
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My credo
Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely
Why can't anything just work the way it's suppose to?

I turned on the water to valve to check my plumbing, and was thrilled to find no leaks.

But then I opened a valve to let the water run, and there was no water.

WTF!! :pissedoff::flipoff::temper:

Then I rembered that when I replaced a section of water line going to my house late last summer that the water didn't come on right away.

I suspect that the line is air looked since it's been shut off for years.

I also decided to check to make sure the water is coming from the house and not another meter.

I dug on the backside of this spigot. I already know the there's a water line on the other side that runs to the house because I replaced it, and there isn't any line running off of the main between here and the meter.

As I was digging I discovered a 3/8-inch copper line running towards the shop.

I dug outside the shop and found the 3/8-inch copper line running under my shop, and now understand why there was a cable buried near this spigot. Likely do a metal detector would detect it.

I didn't find any shut off for this line.

Who the F runs a 3/8-inch copper line 40 feet to a sink and toilet in another building. I figured it was 3/4-inch. Maybe even 1/2-inch. Not 3/8's. WTF.

I still plan to replace the water line from this spigot to the water meter with PEX. I could also replaced this line with a larger PEX line, but I would have to run a new line inside the building. Instead of cutting up the floor I wonder if I could run it along the base of the wall at the floor??

A cabinet and sink goes here. The shop is on the other side of the wall where the brick panel is. I could run it through the wall and connect to my new plumbing. 🤷‍♂️


In the meantime, I need to figure out how to get the water flowing.
Wow, it sounds like you’re upset. Justifiably upset. I’ve been waiting for the right moment, but it appears to be upon us, and I don’t want to cause you double work or put yourself at risk.

Where are you going to put the bidet?

And number two, no pun intended, be really careful about contaminated water when you turn that thing on the chute and jewels!

hope it helps…
 

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I'm not installing a bidet.

I like to squat over my lawn sprinkler and clean myself. Not only does it make me feel fresh and clean, but it waters and fertlizes my yard as well.

You should try it.
 

Rick W

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I'm not installing a bidet.

I like to squat over my lawn sprinkler and clean myself. Not only does it make me feel fresh and clean, but it waters and fertlizes my yard as well.

You should try it.
That’s F’n hilarious!

And I think we’ve bonded closer from that visual….
 

Rick W

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That’s F’n hilarious!

And I think we’ve bonded closer from that visual….
Is it one of the swirly things, or one of those things that goes back-and-forth in an arch?
 

Shran

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So is it leaking or something? Did I miss why there’s no water, is it air locked like you said?

I’d pick an outside wall, dig down under the slab and drill a hole thru the cement from inside the building, in that wall and run your new pipe through the hole to the meter or whatever and bury it. Then run your new pex through the walls to your sink/pooper shutoff. Insulate any pipes that are on an outside wall,

I know it is popular to run water lines in attics down there but I would not do that. Way easier to fix a busted pipe near the ground and patch a wall than it is to fix it in the ceiling, plus the ceiling itself and the walls and whatever else it sprays onto.
 

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