- Joined
- Nov 6, 2008
- Messages
- 154
- Reaction score
- 16
- Points
- 18
- Location
- Federal Heights, Colorado
- Vehicle Year
- 2000
- Make / Model
- Ford Ranger
- Engine Type
- 4.0 V6
- Engine Size
- 4.0
- Transmission
- Automatic
- 2WD / 4WD
- Solid Axle Swap 4x4
- Total Lift
- ~10
- Tire Size
- 35
So Ive decided to chop up my truck and put a solid axle underneath it. What I have for axles is a Dana 44 and a 9" from a '77 F-150. The guy I purchased them from actually took them from the truck with the full intention of putting them under a Jeep Cherokee but found a D60 and a 10.25 instead. He had everything from the radius arms to the upper spring buckets. I spent several hours cleaning the 30+ years of dirt and grime from the axles. I planned on using the stock radius arms (modified to allow better flex) so I ditched what seemed like the original C-bushings for new ones. I went with the 4º bushings, in hindsight I should have went with the 7º, oh well. The back half of the radius arms are to be chopped off and a new arm will be sleeved and welded to allow for a heavy duty heim joint to be threaded in.
I am leaving the axles full width. They are exactly 6" wider than the ranger. I plan on running 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratrac. With the wider tires and the wider axle I needed a wheel that would "tuck in" a little. I needed 17" to clear the steering components. It barely cleared. I had the knuckles reamed out to accept the GM 1 ton TRE's on the top and connected them using 1.5", 1/4" wall DOM tubing.
The 98-00 Ranger for some stupid reason used the rear ABS exciter ring as the vehicle speed sensor also so unfortunately I couldnt just "pull the ABS fuse and take the light out of the dash". I am fortunate to have a good friend who runs a machine shop so I asked him to machine the 9" to accept the 8.8 exciter ring. He did a great job even milled in a notch for the key. The case has to be filed along a rib to allow for clearance of the teeth. I drilled a hole in the top of the housing to accept the sensor and from what my micrometer says I am about 1-1.5mm between the sensor and the teeth. Does anyone know If that is close enough to read?
I originally was only going to have 6" of suspension lift and with the 2.5" of the tires would be about 8.5. I found out that with that set up you would only get about 4.5" of travel before the axle hits the frame. So I did what any man would do. I jacked it up another 2.5 inches! The problem was I had already ordered the springs from a custom spring company in Grand Junction, CO. But I ordered them to the 6" height without the block so I am just going to add the block to get the extra 2.5. The springs ran $230 a pack plus $50 shipping. I have heard about the chevy leaf spring swap but I didnt want to deal with older springs and if I am going to buy new springs I might as well get what I need. Just keep in mind for anyone thinking about going the same route I did. You will either buy your springs for flex and articulation and ride quality or you will buy them for hauling stuff and have a stiff ride. You cannot get both.
The biggest problem I am running into now is I have a steering box from a '79 F-150(I got a good deal on a rebuilt one) and with it mounted pretty much right up against the radiator the pitman arm sits too far behind the drag link about 2-3 inches behind. Does anyone know where I can find a shorter pitman arm? It is currently about 6 7/8" from eye center to eye center. With my tucked wheels my turning radius isnt going to be that great anyway. Or if anyone knows if the pitman arm can be clocked without turning the wrong direction?
I have pics I am having a hard time loading them right now. I will post them when I can.
Any thoughts and helpful ideas would be great!!
I am leaving the axles full width. They are exactly 6" wider than the ranger. I plan on running 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratrac. With the wider tires and the wider axle I needed a wheel that would "tuck in" a little. I needed 17" to clear the steering components. It barely cleared. I had the knuckles reamed out to accept the GM 1 ton TRE's on the top and connected them using 1.5", 1/4" wall DOM tubing.
The 98-00 Ranger for some stupid reason used the rear ABS exciter ring as the vehicle speed sensor also so unfortunately I couldnt just "pull the ABS fuse and take the light out of the dash". I am fortunate to have a good friend who runs a machine shop so I asked him to machine the 9" to accept the 8.8 exciter ring. He did a great job even milled in a notch for the key. The case has to be filed along a rib to allow for clearance of the teeth. I drilled a hole in the top of the housing to accept the sensor and from what my micrometer says I am about 1-1.5mm between the sensor and the teeth. Does anyone know If that is close enough to read?
I originally was only going to have 6" of suspension lift and with the 2.5" of the tires would be about 8.5. I found out that with that set up you would only get about 4.5" of travel before the axle hits the frame. So I did what any man would do. I jacked it up another 2.5 inches! The problem was I had already ordered the springs from a custom spring company in Grand Junction, CO. But I ordered them to the 6" height without the block so I am just going to add the block to get the extra 2.5. The springs ran $230 a pack plus $50 shipping. I have heard about the chevy leaf spring swap but I didnt want to deal with older springs and if I am going to buy new springs I might as well get what I need. Just keep in mind for anyone thinking about going the same route I did. You will either buy your springs for flex and articulation and ride quality or you will buy them for hauling stuff and have a stiff ride. You cannot get both.
The biggest problem I am running into now is I have a steering box from a '79 F-150(I got a good deal on a rebuilt one) and with it mounted pretty much right up against the radiator the pitman arm sits too far behind the drag link about 2-3 inches behind. Does anyone know where I can find a shorter pitman arm? It is currently about 6 7/8" from eye center to eye center. With my tucked wheels my turning radius isnt going to be that great anyway. Or if anyone knows if the pitman arm can be clocked without turning the wrong direction?
I have pics I am having a hard time loading them right now. I will post them when I can.
Any thoughts and helpful ideas would be great!!
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