Looking to buy my first ranger.

[evintho]

As stated above. I figure this is the place to ask! Looking for a good work truck (not to beat on!). Hauling will be limited to light loads. What generally goes wrong with these trucks? I know the older 2.3's are bulletproof on the bottom end however, I'll probably go with a early to mid 90's truck. Manual or auto? 4x4 isn't necessary but would be a plus. Probably longbed but shortbed isn't a deal killer either. $2K is what I want to spend and can probably put another $500 in parts into it. I do all my own work. What do I need to look for and what do I need to look out for? What say yee?
Thanks in advance and all responses are greatly appreciated!

 

[straycat]

For around $2,500 you might get a truck in really good shape and does not need anything. I see all kinds of trucks for sale that are in really great condition with low mileage, newer models (late 90's) for under $4,000. You just need to shop around an compare prices and years before you buy. It is up to you as to what motor you want, 2wd or 4x4. Just remember the 4x4 needs more maintenance than the 2wd. The 4.0 is the best motor to get if you are going to drive it every day and the 4.0 will be better to haul stuff around or towing a trailer or boat. The long bed comes in handy if you have to use the bed for long objects. 2 door extended cab is the best to own. You can put more stuff in it and if you can get the Supercab with the access doors you will like that even better. A lot more room.

 

[racsan]

rear spring shackles/hangers like to rust away if youre in a area that uses salt. my '93 has had all 4 hangers replaced, the rear ones were the first to go.go ahead with a 4x4 if you can, you may not need it often, but those times you do you will be glad you had it. i prefer a manual trans myself. 2.3 is a good fuel-saving engine, but doesnt have alot of tourque. the 4.0 has plenty of power for the ranger chassis and is still efficent enough to drive every day.

 

[kid_crash]

Well, if you live in a area where the roads are salted. Also keep a eye on the frame, here in Maine I see tons of rusted out frames. The four door supercabs are more prone to rocker rust than the two door cabs. My ideal rig would be a 4.0 5-speed 4x4 supercab. Currently mine is all those except it's an auto.

 

[All Sick 96]

I'll sell you mine its a 96 with a 4.0 4 by 4 extended cab

 

[All Sick 96]

And just got Rough Country 4 inch lift on it with mud terrain tires

 

[XLTsplash]

The 2.3L with a 5 speed is a good choice. That's what I wanted and it took me a long time to find one. The clean ones were selling super fast if the price was low. So I ended up paying a little more than I wanted too for my 1997. I like the look of the classic look of 89/92 Rangers. The 93 and newer Rangers have some nice upgrades like hidden drip rails, tailgate access panel and a more modern looking body. The think the new instrument panel that came out in 1995 was a big upgrade. I also feel OBD II is a a big plus that came in the 1996 and newer Rangers. 1997 was the last year for the Twin I - Beam suspension on 2wd Rangers that seems to be a tough front suspension. In 1998 you get the bigger 2.5L 4 cylinder engine and rack & pinion steering which is all good stuff. The ball joints seem to have a short life on the 98 and newer Rangers with 2wd suspension. Ford made a lot of changes over the years on Rangers so there are pros and cons. A lot of it depends on what's important to you.

 

[DRF]

Stay away from the A4LD Auto transmission if you are going to use it hard. Go 4x4 supercab and 2.9L only after 89(bad head design prior to that). Good Luck!!!

DRF
1992 Ranger 4X4
Ardmore, AL

 

[JimsExplodingRanger]

Like others have said. check everything that is riveted to the frame. Spring hangers (front and rear) are pretty cheap. So are the front radius arm supports. The Transmission crossmember was also rust eaten on mine and it was harder to find and also a bit expensive. Rear cab mounts are 80.00 a side OUCH! And that's when you can find them. Noisy manual trans, especially on the deceleration might mean low trans fluid. The shift rail plugs are rubber and like to leak when driving. It's easy to goober up the plugs with RTV and seal them up but most folks don't. By me, there are several Rangers w/5 speeds where the trans burned up, likely because of this flaw. Lots of nice Rangers out there but prices drop quickly when key parts have extra holes in them! If you're skilled, deals can be had though!