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K-Link...Heims or TREs?

ChrisR1S

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Hey guys I'm in need of some opinions and advice. I've tried searching but all i can find on the superrunner kit as far as mods go is droping the tie rods to accomodate for the amount of lift present which i am doing as well..

I'm getting my superrunner kit finished up on my truck and the TREs are worn so I'm going to go ahead and replace them all before i bolt it all up for good. Question is if i simply replace the TREs what do i replace them with? ranger TREs? I've heard the superlift replacements are junk..
OR should I go heims/rod ends? if so could it be so simple that there is a heim that will thread right in in place of the TRE?
 


jovibuilt

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The one that goes into the pitman arm is welded on the super runner set up.I cut it off and tapped it to use a factory RH thread explorer tre.And on the links I used dom tubing and tapped it to use rh and Lh thread factory explorer tre's.I also dropped the center link(plate) 3 inches.I also used jam nuts on all the tre's.Super lift customer service sucks.They want to sell you a whole new set up.I can get you the tube size and tap size also where to buy the taps if you need them.I plan on doing a write up soon on how to build this set up from scratch.
 

ChrisR1S

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See I'm thinking my kit i bought used from the classifieds has already been modified at the pitman arm attachment joint. It looks like the modified ones i've seen on the net and not like the stock kit where its welded with no exposed threads; i can see threads and there is a jam nut.. Guess i need to see if i can remove the joint.

And that info would be great jovi. Would the stockers not thread in or did you just feel the tubes needed to be beefed up?
 

jovibuilt

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Well i have two of the super runner set ups.And they are different.One set up has tube with tre and jam nuts.The other set up has short tre's and long tre's with adjuster sleeves like regular tre's.And both of the set ups were bought new from super lift.The one with tube and tre's is alot older than the other set up.But the long tres had some play in them and super lift wouldn't sell them seperate.When I called them to ask about it the guy on the phone was a smarta$$.And I got tired of buying stuff with such crappy customer service.So I bought everything to make the links myself and use off the shelf tre's.If you need measurements of size's let me know.I can get pictures if you need them.
 

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Can i get all the pics and info from your setup? Did you use inserts in your tubes or did you thread the tube itself?

I took mine apart today and mine must be the older version like you mentioned. The 4lower TREs appear to all be the same while the upper for the pitman arm is a tad bigger, about the size of a stock ranger TRE. I read on the net that stock ranger TREs would work for the 4links on the superrunner setup but the ranger TRE is bigger.. Are the threaded ends on B2 or 2wd ranger TREs smaller than those on my 4x4? Unless i can find an oem replacement ill just have to make my own tubes and probably just run heims with the misalignment spacers. should be easer to maintain and replace.

Here is a pic of the ends.. left is stock ranger, center is one of the lowers from the superrunner, and the right is the centerlink/pitman arm end from the superrunner
 
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My Superrunner kit is the "newer" version... The outer TREs are definitely the same ones as RBV TREs (the inners are a "long" TRE/tierod like jovi mentioned). Since you got the older version, that's probably why the difference.

I wouldn't use heims if you'll be driving it on the street a lot. I'd suggest getting some replacement tierods made of DOM tube fitted with TREs. The Superlift tierods bend very easy if you bump them into a rock or something.
 

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I threaded the tubes.I will be in the garage all day tomorrow.I will try to rmember to take some pictures for you.When I get time and some
more parts laser cut I am going to do a steering build thread on making my own set up.Somewhat like the super runner set up.
 

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Here is the older set up.You can see where the tube has flat spots machined in it to turn the tube to adjust the length.I bought this set up new in the early 90's.I also dropped the center 3 inches.


 

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Here is the newer set up with short and long tre's with regular adjusters.This is the set up superlift sells now.I dropped the center 3 inches.And replaced the welded tre on the pitman arm with a explorer tre.I tapped the tube with a 22mx1.5 tap and used a jam nut.The tube is 1&1/4 dom.I also replaced the bushings with UHMW.The superlift poly ones had to much play in them for me.




 
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Here are the taps I am using to make my new links.
left one is m20x1.5 LH and the right one is m22x1.5 rh in the boxes under the are 25 jam nuts same thread as the taps.

And here is a 10 ft stick of 1&1/4 dom 250 wall for the upper link and two 11 ft sticks of 1&1/4 290 wall for the tre links.

I am having the drop centers laser cut so I can build my own set ups.Just waiting on them and my reamer to show up.The 290 wall is so I can tap one end m20x1.5.I will have to drill the dom to size to tap each end but that way i don't have to use inserts.And it all will be off the shelf right and left explorer tre's and jam nuts.Let me know if you need anything else.
 
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ChrisR1S

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Thanks! That helps out a lot. Think I'm going to do mine a mix of the two setups. I Like how you have the center dropped and braced on the second setup, def doing mine similar to that. And Since my kit is the older one I think Ill leave it with long tube/short tre with jam nuts. I need to measure the superlift tubes and see if there is enough to retap, if not ill go ahead and order some and follow your sizes. What TREs do you have on the first setup
 

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The first set up.The short tre's are factory rvbs.Explorer I think.Cant remember what ones though.I know I bought replacment ones at napa.
 
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legoms013

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Can the same tap be used for either the left or right TRE? I see jovibuilt has a M22x1.5 listed and another M20x1.5 also listed? I was under the impression both sides would utilize the same tap....correct my train of thought if I'm wrong and they require different taps.

I'm going to build my own setup here soon once school is out hopefully, much like the stonecrusher setup but with TRE's at the knuckles and pitman arm, and one heim for the saddle joint.

Thanks!
 

jovibuilt

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Can the same tap be used for either the left or right TRE? I see jovibuilt has a M22x1.5 listed and another M20x1.5 also listed? I was under the impression both sides would utilize the same tap....correct my train of thought if I'm wrong and they require different taps.

I'm going to build my own setup here soon once school is out hopefully, much like the stonecrusher setup but with TRE's at the knuckles and pitman arm, and one heim for the saddle joint.

Thanks!
I am going from memory.The drivers side is m22 RH thread and passenger side is m20 LH thread. stock explorer short tre's.One has to be RH thread and one LH thread to be able to adjust it without taking one end lose.With RH and LH threads turn the link one way and both screw in turn the other and both screw out.The taps are not to bad high.Rh was like $20 and LH was $39 I think,bought them back in the summer.I have the number of the place and they ship if you are interested.
 

legoms013

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Interesting, they are different indeed.

Where did you buy/order your taps from?

So you also mention two different wall thicknesses used: .250 wall for the M22x1.5 RS TRE at the pitman arm, and .290 wall for all the others?

Is this really needed? Reason I ask is b/c it seems .290 is a hard wall thickness to find in 1.25" OD (or at least on the internet, i haven't called around yet to my local suppliers). Couldn't I just use one or the other, if I were going to use RBV TRE's all around?
 
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