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Just picked up my new ranger P0171 and P0174


kolb02

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Just got a 97 ranger 4.0L today and it has a p0171 and a P0174 check engine light. It's the bank 1 lean and bank 2 lean. I did some research and found that it could be the fuel rail gasket? Any input on this would be much appreciated.
the truck runs great and smooth. Just needd to get this check engine light taken care of.
 


97RangerXLT

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Well, you are right, it is a common issue on the 97. Here is the TSB on it:

LIGHT TRUCK: 1997 AEROSTAR, RANGER
TSB
98-6-8 ROUGH IDLE - MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) ILLUMINATED - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0171, P0174, P1131 AND/OR P1151 STORED IN MEMORY - 4.0L ENGINES ONLY
STALL - DURING IDLE - MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) ILLUMINATED - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0171, P0174, P1131 AND/OR P1151 STORED IN MEMORY - 4.0L ENGINES ONLY
LAMP - MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) ILLUMINATED - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0171, P0174, P1131 AND/OR P1151 STORED IN MEMORY - 4.0L ENGINES ONLY

This TSB article is being republished in its entirety to correct the part number listed, revise the Service Procedure, and add Aerostar.

ISSUE: A rough idle, stalling at an idle and/or Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P0171, P0174, P1131, and/or P1151 may be stored in memory on some vehicles with a 4.0L engine. This may be caused by the gasket located between the fuel rail and lower intake manifold losing its compressive loading and becoming drawn into the intake manifold runners resulting in a vacuum leak.

ACTION: Replace the fuel rail-to-intake manifold paper gasket with a revised gasket. Refer to the following Service Procedure and the 1997 Ranger or Aerostar Service Manual for removal and replacement procedures.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

Remove the upper intake manifold and inspect the O-ring style gaskets on the mounting surface of the upper intake manifold. If the gasket bead is above the intake surface and is not torn, do not disturb the gasket. If any of the O-ring gaskets are torn or do not protrude beyond the mounting surface of the upper intake manifold, the gasket should be replaced.
Remove six (6) studs and lift off fuel rail manifold and paper gasket.
Inspect all holes in the lower intake manifold to make sure there is no debris.
Replace the Gasket (F8PZ-9E436-AA) (bright green paper and blue bead) and set the fuel rail manifold on the gasket. No paper gasket is needed on the top side of the fuel rail manifold.
Lubricate the lower portion of the stud bolts with a light grade oil such as 5W30 and torque the bolts to 14 2 N-m (10 1.5 lb-ft) using the torque sequence shown in Figure
The upper intake manifold should be installed and the nuts torqued to 25 N-m (18.5 lb-ft) using the torque sequence shown in Figure 1.
Start and warm the engine.
Allow the engine to cool and retorque all of the nuts to 25 N-m (18.5 lb-ft) using the sequence shown in Figure



And here is how you fix it:
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94437

AJ
 

kolb02

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Funny, I was just reading your thread. What gasket did you use for the fuel rail? It says to use the updated one from ford in the TSB. Is that what you used?
 

97RangerXLT

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I just used the one that came in my Felpro kit for the Valve cover and upper intake gaskets. The gasket itself is just a paper gasket. 5 years since I have done that repair and no complaints yet. Although it is looking like I will need to do the valve cover gaskets again... sigh...

AJ

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Ranger4x4.0

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God is great, beer is good, and rangers are awesome!
Yeah, i had the same codes on my 98. replaced upper intake gasket and fuel rail gasket and was good to go. Spray starting fluid around/on the fuel rail, where you check the fuel pressure, and if the engine changes sound every time you spray it, you gotta leak. It was too much of a pita for me so i took it to the shop. It cost around 370 for parts and labor.
 

kolb02

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Cool, I just swapped the gaskets out yesterday. I got done late and I need to go get a new belt. I will drive it around today some and hope the check engine light stays off.
 

97RangerXLT

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Glad you got it all done! Hopefully that fixes the issue.

And it is nice to know how much you saved on doing it yourself vs the shop. to be honest tho, 370 isn't to bad to let someone else deal with the headache... I think I spent a little over 120 or 150 (don't remember exact cost, its been a while) and I got to cuss it out and fight it in person. :)

AJ
 

kolb02

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Went 40 miles today and no check engine light. When do you know your in the clear?
 

enjr44

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Forty miles should do it. Sounds fixed.
 

97RangerXLT

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Agree ^^

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 while sitting in my underwear
 

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