I Need a Whole Parking Brake

[Selluther1]

Hi everyone,

new to this site and really need some help.

So I have an 02 crew cab 4x4 ranger and the last guy decided to remove the entire parking brake system.
I have a working floor pedal but beyond that quite literally nothing. A guy sent me a link to LMC truck (https://www.lmctruck.com/1983-11-ford/brakes/fr-1983-02-park-brake-components?fbclid=IwAR3bCLoaMjmvz4aH-_qzm-4dCfw2qRi35ZqAxGx7pdH4dQI9XbJPxOVygT0) but I still don’t know the specific brake cables I need.

i also think I need the pieces that part #4 (according to the diagram in the link) attaches too but I don’t think they sell that piece

really appreciate any help I can get here!
Thanks

 

[franklin2]

Just take your tape measure and measure from the center of the front tire to the center of the rear tire. That is your wheelbase. Then order the correct cable. If you do not have the bracket on the frame, you will have to go to the junkyard and get one.

Here is a yard in Maryland that has a 00 4 dr ranger. If they still have the frame, you can probably get the cables and the whole setup, and you will know how it goes together since you are taking it apart in the yard.

2000 Cab Shell Assembly Ford Ranger

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Martin's Auto Parts USA-MD(Oakland) Request_Quote 301-334-8340 / 301-359-0477 Request_Insurance_Quote

 

[Selluther1]

Ahhh gotcha that makes sense and that wheel base number would be the "83 - 5 / 84" number I am seeing?

I was afraid that I was going to have to go pickin to get that piece but thanks Im definitely going to start hunting around for some parts trucks, Id Imagine the year doesnt matter so much for this part as long as its around 02?

 

[franklin2]

Not sure on the year interchange, but you are probably right, many years would fit. I am not sure, but this bracket might be riveted or welded to the frame. I hope it's not welded. If it's riveted you can drill the rivets out and then chisel the heads off and knock it off the frame.

Ahhh gotcha that makes sense and that wheel base number would be the "83 - 5 / 84" number I am seeing?

No. Those are year numbers. The numbers with a "WB" after them are the wheelbase numbers.

 

[Selluther1]

I see so in that case I cant use any of these parts since only the adjuster fits an '02.

I guess thats alright though since the cables are easy enough to buy anywhere I just need to track down these other components.

And believe me I just replaced the rear frame so ive got some experience takin these rivets out lol still hope its just bolts.

 

[black_demon69]

I have 2 questions
1 was the previous owner a meth addict? and 2 why the F**K would anyone remove the whole parking brake system?

 

[Rick W]

Hey, these guys know I don’t know what I’m talking about, but I know a good crutch-trick. Many times along the way when I’ve needed something for a car, I find another one and ask the guy if I can take pictures. Armed with the pics of what I’m missing and email, a lot easier to find stuff....

& Are you sure nothing else is missing?

My 2 cents, hope it helps. Good luck!

 

[Selluther1]

I have 2 questions
1 was the previous owner a meth addict? and 2 why the F**K would anyone remove the whole parking brake system?

Not a single clue as to why he would do it but its really screwing me and I was dumb enough not to check and even dumber to buy the truck.

Heres a pic of the stuff I really need and really cant seem to find.

 

[franklin2]

Since you have done some mechanical work, I will suggest what I usually do for parking brakes. I mostly have worked on the larger trucks, and all that stuff on the outside of the frame is usually rusted out. So I make my own. A short piece of bed frame angle iron with some holes drilled in it may be enough for a bracket. And as far as the cables, I have never had to mess with the forward cable, but the rear ones are available in the store and then I use regular cable and cable u-clamps sometimes to get it all together. That along with some all thread to make an adjuster.

 

[Selluther1]

That’s not a bad idea at all, I’m thinking I’ll get as many of the parts as I possibly can then just MacGyver the rest of it.

 

[don4331]

Are you referring to the bracket which holds the right hand cable in place? In which case, it is held in place by the front bolt of the driver's leaf spring... And bolt is an absolute ^%$#@ to remove in JY (bolt will be rusted to bushing and they don't allow you the proper removal tools - torch/grinder).

If you really want one, and would be willing to pay shipping, I removed springs off Ranger on past weekend and left one lying beside the truck...

 

[Selluther1]

Are you referring to the bracket which holds the right hand cable in place? In which case, it is held in place by the front bolt of the driver's leaf spring... And bolt is an absolute ^%$#@ to remove in JY (bolt will be rusted to bushing and they don't allow you the proper removal tools - torch/grinder).

If you really want one, and would be willing to pay shipping, I removed springs off Ranger on past weekend and left one lying beside the truck...

Well the funny thing is that I actually swapped out the entire rear frame on my truck so its entirely apart check it out.

I really appreciate the offer but Im not sure im going to put one back on at all, I havent been able to find the bracket anywhere so I was planning to put the springs back on and then build some type of mount to hold them and attach it to the frame somehow. I was planning to do this cause I wanted to get the back end back together starting today, but what do you think? Howd you attach the cable without the bracket?

 

[don4331]

You need a bracket to hold the cable in place. And it needs to be more/less in the same location so the cable doesn't get kinked/cables to cab mate up at correct length. (As noted above, you can use cable clamps instead of Ford's solution.

The bracket isn't that fancy - 9/16" hole for the spring bolt, ~1/2" hole for the cable and tab to prevent rotation - if you have some angle iron lying around you could whip something up pretty quick.

 

[Selluther1]

You need a bracket to hold the cable in place. And it needs to be more/less in the same location so the cable doesn't get kinked/cables to cab mate up at correct length. (As noted above, you can use cable clamps instead of Ford's solution.

The bracket isn't that fancy - 9/16" hole for the spring bolt, ~1/2" hole for the cable and tab to prevent rotation - if you have some angle iron lying around you could whip something up pretty quick.

Tell you what in that case I would be interested in that bracket of yours.

As far as I know its only for the drivers side? I dont need one for the passenger side correct?

 

[franklin2]

Tell you what in that case I would be interested in that bracket of yours.

As far as I know its only for the drivers side? I dont need one for the passenger side correct?

Correct. If it's like the f150's I have worked on, the pass rear cable is very long and has a support bracket that bolts to the top of the pumpkin to support it as it travels from the driver's side to the pass side. The driver's side rear cable is shorter.

I do know some of these rangers, I think yours is one, has a hokey setup where they pull on one cable until it gets tight, and then it starts pulling on the other cable. The larger trucks I have worked on had the bracket that held both cables, and had a "spreader bar" that took the one single cable from the front, and divided it's motion into both of the rear cables.