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trxusrngr

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hey Guys about a year ago my check engine ligh started flickering and coming on. My buddy owns a diesel performance shop, so he hooded up to my OBD II port and got code Code 211 PIP Signal was Erratic or Missing.... We ran it through alldata and they said symptoms should be pinging, rough idle, just pre-ignition problems. All data says replace distributor, and in some cases just the coil. The truck has always had a rough surge or idle when you stop at a light or stop sign. Nothing violent just feels like its cammed! lol But lately when i start the truck if i go to the rear and listen to the exhaust while its rinning i hear popping like a cylinder is firing at the wrong time. Have any of you guys heard of this problem or had it? if so your input would be greatly appreciated.... and if so would a DISTRIBUTOR DO THE TRICK? And btw i just replaced the cap & rotor about 3-4 months ago.
 


locovaca

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If you have a 93 you most certainly did not hook a scanner to an OBD-II port because you don't have one, and if you do, you don't have a distributor.

When is the last time you checked your timing?
 

evanesce69

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could be a burnt exhaust valve.

Has it happened all at once or gotten progressively worse with time?

my first burnt valve acted the same way! came on slow until one day it just up and quit.
Reading you signature, you have larger tires, but no mention of gears to compensate for those tires... that puts a lot of load on the engine... wears things out quickly...


Do a compression test!


 
Last edited:

trxusrngr

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sorry, your correct it is OBD-I i'm used to working on OBD-II sorry.... i hven't checked my timing. I figured i would throw a distributor at it, and time it then.... but i didnt think about a burnt valve!
 

trxusrngr

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Whats the easiest way to check the timing on the 3.0!
 

locovaca

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1. Pull the PIP shorting bar by the Ignition Pack on the driver's side of the radiator support.

2. Hook a timing light up to plug wire 1, start it up, and make sure it's at 10 degrees BTDC.

2a. If it's not, then adjust the distributor until it is

3. Put the PIP shorting bar back on.

I'd also check to make sure your plug wires are hooked up in the right order.
 

trxusrngr

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Thank You Locovac! Update, i left school today in NY and on my 4 1/2 hour drive back to southern PA It decided to really shit the bed! It started acting like a misfire when i left, it would shake and buck when i put my foot in it. As soon as i would let off it would smoothen out. if i was in a higher gear, instead of loss of power because of lugging it would violently shake more, down shift and put your foot in it, so its screaming, and its less noticeable. then the tach started to bounce at whatever RPM! almost like a mechanical drive speedo might when your on rough road, but my mechanical drive speedo was not bouncing, and i was on some preety smooth sections of I88. This continued the whole trip. It used a shit ton of fuel, and it had no nut up the hills(compared to what it usually does on this drive) if i dropped a gear and had it screaming like 4000-4500 RPM's it would still decrease ground speed. ended up stopping for gas, and it wouldnt start.... Got it started by feathering the throttle and resumed this because it didnt want to stay running! once i goot back on the interstate it was guttless and took forever to get up to speed, and it sounded like my 1990 ranger with the 2.3 at high RPM's. got home stopped at work then took it over to my shopped started looking at some things, made no real changes, shut it off for a few min, and it wouldn't start.... So it's down! What elsce can i check? i actually took the distributor out this evening and want to see if i can test it!?!?! INPUT IS GREAT, AND MUCH APPRECIATED!
 

trxusrngr

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Got it figured out, blown exhaust valve on # 4 cylinder. got it apart just waiting for new parts, do any of you guys know how to test the mechanical side of the injectors? the electrical side says 12-16 ohms of immpedence!
 

trxusrngr

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:icon_confused:


:annoyed:


Cyl. # 4,5,6


Cyl. #4 (where the valve burnt)


Cyl #5 & 6
Does anybody know why Cyl. # 5 has so much carbon compared to cylinders 4&6? could it be injector failure?
 

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