Ford motor sports 7.5" limited slip differential

[Slo Ranger Trk]

Hey all out there in ranger land, praying all's well for you and yours !! All you fathers have a great Dads day this week end !!!
before my question , you all need a little info.. My truck is a 2000 long bed, 2.5L, 5 spd, 7.5" diff .. also it has a camburg 5on5 front end w/ fox canister shocks up front.. The rear set-up is a ranger 4x4 camper special r/springs, w/ 2" blocks and bilstein shocks.. 80 % of my driving is street , and 20% is up country in fire line roads and ranch back roads.. no serious stuff at all ... last is the size tires, 31x10.5x15 on 15x8 wheels...
My questions is will a ford motor sports l/slip diff , w/ 4.56 gears work with my truck ? helping with better drivability on the street and 1st gear driving up country ?
thanks all for your help,
have a great fathers day guys,
Gods Speed, mahalo,
Ray

 

[4.0B2]

if you get stuff for a ford 7.5 it'll work... 4.56s will be better than the stock stuff for sure...

however, personally I'd find an explorer 8.8 axle. I won't spend money on a 7.5 when the 8.8 is ALMOST bolt in and a lot stronger. chances are that the 7.5 could be strong enough for you.

you could find a disc brake 4.10 8.8 limited slip in some explorers. then regear it to 4.56 or 4.88s and sell the 4.10's on here to recoup some cost. I sold some 4.10 gears on Explorer forum for $100 plus shipping.

 

[Slo Ranger Trk]

thanks for your help

hey ,
thanks for your help and input .. always grateful for the help !
will think it over and see how the $$$ goes the next month...
A gain, thank you !
Mahalo, ray

 

[Mac]

Ray, I think you will find some good advice here. Think everyone would say to go at least with the 8.8 Ranger rear, Explorer would be the best. Recconize your question from FTE, these guys are much better.
Dave

 

[fixizin]

Err, umm, it's beyond my current DIY level, but... doesn't swapping ANY Explorer rear axle into ANY Ranger involve semi-serious cutting and WELDING, i.e. shock and shackle mount locations and angles, etc.? Then there's the disc brakes, which, IIRC, requires a different master cylinder and perhaps other components?

The 7.5 is PLENTY strong enough for the 2.5L engine. I've done lots of the type of part-time non-boulder off-roading the OP describes with my limited-slip 7.5, and my "mighty" 3.0 Vulcan has yet to "shred" it, lol.

But yes, 4.56 gears would help the little 2.5L in the tighter/steeper spots.

 

[shane96ranger]

You could quite possibly ditch those blocks too if you nab the springs out of the Explorer as well.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

however, personally I'd find an explorer 8.8 axle. I won't spend money on a 7.5 when the 8.8 is ALMOST bolt in and a lot stronger. chances are that the 7.5 could be strong enough for you.

The only thing bolt in about the 8.8 in his truck is the pinion flange to driveshaft. Like fixizen said the shock mounts and spring perches will have to be added. The MC should be ok though.

The Explorer springs don't really add much ride height unless your stock springs are shot... which means new Ranger springs would also add ride height.

 

[4.0B2]

Sorry if I don't consider welding on spring perches MAJOR fab.. Guess I've grown up around it so much I just do it.

Besides... If the OP decided to do an axle swap I would hope he'd take his time to do some research before diving in.

So just find a ranger 8.8 with limited slip somewhere and then regear it. BUT regearing is above many DIY'ers level to.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Sorry if I don't consider welding on spring perches MAJOR fab.. Guess I've grown up around it so much I just do it.

It is missleading to others to call something almost bolt on when basically no part of the project bolts on.

I only had to make two holes for my V8 swap, it was closer to bolting in than my 8.8 was.

 

[fixizin]

Sorry if I don't consider welding on spring perches MAJOR fab...

For the record, the phrase I used was "... semi-serious cutting and WELDING"... "semi" if you've done it before, "serious" if you get the angles wrong, LOL. (For sure I need a votech course in welding... face the fear, nyuk, nyuk, nyuk.)

Anyway, I perused your B-II build thread... BEAUTY-ful paint... lift and suspension changes are significant, so... I'm wondering... did you wind up ditching the rear sway bar? Is it for sale???? Thanks in advance.

 

[4.0B2]

For the record, the phrase I used was "... semi-serious cutting and WELDING"... "semi" if you've done it before, "serious" if you get the angles wrong, LOL. (For sure I need a votech course in welding... face the fear, nyuk, nyuk, nyuk.)

Anyway, I perused your B-II build thread... BEAUTY-ful paint... lift and suspension changes are significant, so... I'm wondering... did you wind up ditching the rear sway bar? Is it for sale???? Thanks in advance.

actually, right now I still have NO rear sway bar...and i can't tell the difference at all, but I have an add a leaf in the rear so it's stiff.

the rear sway bar could be for sale (if I still have it...don't know if it's been scrapped or if its still sitting under the camper)... PM me if you're interested, I'll go look to see if it's there. but I thought the "wanted" b2 sway bar was only on 2wd ones?

edit: Just went and looked, I still have it... have all of it except 2 nuts for the u-bolts. I'll have to pull the sway bar links off my b2. PM the price you're willing pay. you'll have to pay shipping also of course.

 

[Captain Ledd]

Nothing on this truck comes close to needing an explorer 8.8. Which will need some expensive fabrication tools to install. It's simple fab work, but NO WHERE CLOSE TO BOLTING IN. I really wish people would stop saying that it is because it's flat out misleading.

However, the RANGER 8.8 will bolt in.

Even more still, my 7.5" served me fine for years. I actually wore mine out with a 2.3L towing so much (200k miles helped too). Since I had a Explorer 8.8 sitting around I did some cost calculations and comparisons:

7.5" vs 8.8"
Gear sets - Exactly the same price for 4.56
(I have 4.56 gears in mine and even smaller tires, I love it!)
Gear install kits - Same
Bearings - Same
L/S Differentials - same price ( for torsen L/S's, the only L/S to go with IMO)
Brakes - essentially the same price, <$10 difference per side for a COMPLETE rebuild.
Locking differentials - None for a 7.5", abundant for 8.8"

If you're looking for getting down the trails easier a locking diff would be the biggest help. Each wheel turns and get's all the power/traction the tire will allow regardless of what the other wheel is doing.

But since you really don't do anything serious, the L/S would probably be fine and work well. It will definately help in snow or slippery conditions (you never mentioned a location) and will also perform better on the trails, just keep in mind that nothing is necessarily a miracle worker so don't get too ambitious trying it out lol.

Honestly, I'd just rebuild the 7.5". All the parts are about the same price and you don't have to buy another axle. 7.5's are fine as long as you don't like doing clutch dumps with it. Generally the aftermarket carriers are stronger than the factory ones anyways (the spider gears and the carrier is the 7.5" weak point)

Edit:
Since your Ranger is a 2000, the driveshaft flange issue shouldn't be a problem, whichever route you go.

 

[Slo Ranger Trk]

hey , thanks all for the great input of info ... many thanks !!
oh yea , weather-snow-freezing isn't a big problem where i live, i'm in central cali , in san luis obispo ... lucky us -- average year round temp is 62.5 degeres ..
Mahalo all, r