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faulty brake rotor?

renton

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on my 2005 2wd ranger my drivers side wheel bearing is always a bit loose depsite proper tightening and never lasts more then a year. I've had 3 different shops replace the bearings but it's always just the one side. The spindle doesnt appear to have any damage so my question is could the rotor be out of spec? I wonder if the bearing races are just slightly off causing them to not tighten up properly leading to failure. It's the only thing I can think of at this point.
 


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When you buy a new rotor and have it put on... are they replacing the bearing races or just putting the new bearing on the race thatcomes with the rotor?

Might be slight differences causing you issues.
 

renton

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When you buy a new rotor and have it put on... are they replacing the bearing races or just putting the new bearing on the race thatcomes with the rotor?

Might be slight differences causing you issues.
Sorry I didn't clarify. The rotor has not been replaced as they say it still looks good. The bearings and races were replaced. Once by me and another by garage. I wanted to do it myself to see if they messed it up.
 
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pjtoledo

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if the spindle/stub axle is worn the inner race won't fit tight. that allows the wheel to seem loose no matter how tight the bearings are.
do you get any vibrations?
how exactly do the bearings fail?
has a dial indicator been used to determine out of round or wobble?
 

renton

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if the spindle/stub axle is worn the inner race won't fit tight. that allows the wheel to seem loose no matter how tight the bearings are.
do you get any vibrations?
how exactly do the bearings fail?
has a dial indicator been used to determine out of round or wobble?
The spindle doesn't seem worn, no grooves or depressions. The inner race slides on spindle with just a tad play, should it be tight? Bearing usually fails by overheating not wear or pitting.
 

renton

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so i ordered new rotors and bearings, i figure this is the easier solution if thats the problem. I dont want to replace the spindle if i dont have to since that's much more involved and expensive. fingers crossed it fixes the issue.
 

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The spindle doesn't seem worn, no grooves or depressions. The inner race slides on spindle with just a tad play, should it be tight? Bearing usually fails by overheating not wear or pitting.
Having not done bearings on a ranger particularly, every other vehicle required the bearing races be tapped in place with a drift and hammer
 

don4331

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Having not done bearings on a ranger particularly, every other vehicle required the bearing races be tapped in place with a drift and hammer
With most 2wd hubs currently being sold, the races are preinstalled. And the rotor is integral to the hub.

@renton:

I have to ask:
Are you drive 100,000 miles/year?
You are setting up your hub correctly? i.e.
Packing the bearings with the correct high temperature grease for disc brakes hubs (NLGI No.2 Lithium grease with polyethylene and molybenium disulfide)?​
Adding a little grease in hub inside of bearings/between seal and between bearing and washer (one doesn't need to fill the hub with grease, but just enough so the initial spinning of hub doesn't result in all the grease flowing to hub and leaving bearing's dry).​
Tightening the spindle nut to 240 inch lbs (I have to use my 3/8" torque wrench with adapter for 1/2" socket as my 1/2" isn't sensitive enough at 20 ft lbs).​
Then backing off 1/2 turn and re-tightening to 20 inch lbs​
Installing the locking nut and cotter pin.​

It really sounds like you are over tightening the bearings.
 

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so i ordered new rotors and bearings, i figure this is the easier solution if thats the problem. I dont want to replace the spindle if i dont have to since that's much more involved and expensive. fingers crossed it fixes the issue.
replacing a 2wd spindle is not that involved. you're half way there doing the hub/rotor.
this is one of those situations where being there and seeing parts would be very helpful.

a bearing race should slide on with almost no effort.

are both the large and small bearings overheating?
after a long drive can you feel heat radiating from the hub?
do you have access to an IR thermometer?
how is the pad wear on that wheel?

it appears don4331 types faster than me.
 

renton

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Well if it was overtightened or installed wrong it seems odd it's only one side that has the issue. Its both the small and large bearing that overheat on that side. I had a mechanic I trust install them before just to make sure I was doing it right.
 

19Walt93

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A loose bearing will fail sooner than a tight one, compared to the weight of the truck the preload is minimal. I would check for looseness with the wheel on and tighten accordingly. I also don't use wheel bearing specific grease, I use Motorcraft chassis grease. I installed new front wheel bearings in my Mustang in August of 1990 and repack them every few years so the grease must work. You're replacing the front seals, right?
 

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@19Walt93 : After reading your post and thinking about it, I was wondering if there could be damaged threads on the spindle - It would seriously throw off setup...

My '99 Ranger got hub replaced about 10 years ago now because my daughter ignored the warning noises of pads being worn out, and ruined rotor. It hasn't been repacked/readjusted since. So, when they're set up right, they go for a long time.
 

renton

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@19Walt93 : After reading your post and thinking about it, I was wondering if there could be damaged threads on the spindle - It would seriously throw off setup...

My '99 Ranger got hub replaced about 10 years ago now because my daughter ignored the warning noises of pads being worn out, and ruined rotor. It hasn't been repacked/readjusted since. So, when they're set up right, they go for a long time.
that is a good point but the threads look really good. I had a 78 malibu and didnt maintain it for awhile so my bearings got fried damaging the spindle a bit but I still never had issues like this, i just cleaned it and replaced the bearings.
 

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Maybe your mechanic sucks.
 

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