Do I really need the radius arm crossmember?

[Daniel Black]

1987 Ranger,2WD, 302, Toploader 4-speed. I've had two different 302s in the truck but both times it was removed and installed with the bellhousing already bolted up to the block. I never thought about the need for removing the bellhousing under the truck. Now I've blown the trans and need to change the clutch also. I have another 4-speed and clutch kit. 4 bolts and the old Toploader came out but the bellhousing won't fit. It gets wedged between the firewall, headers and the RA crossmember. Can I just cut the center of it out? I've owned and still own a lot of Bullnose full size trucks and they don't have that crossmember. Can I cut it and bolt a piece of steel between the frame rails? Granted I'll lose the front sway bar but I'm running out of patience and options. It's either cut it or pray the body mounts come loose to jack the cab up a little. Any input on the situation?

 

[franklin2]

Look at it, I bet the body mounts and the radius arm mounts are on the outside of the frame rail. So the force on the frame will tend to twist the frame, and being a c-channel, it easily twists. Your factory crossmember most likely is riveted top AND bottom on the frame, to counteract this twisting force.

Nothing wrong with cutting the center out, as long as you put something back in there to tie it back together. I would find some channel or whatever you have you can get a hold of and bolt it in place so you can take it out next time.

 

[ericbphoto]

I would not get rid of that. That would leave a long stretch of frame disconnected and allow twisting and bending that would not be good for the truck as a whole.

 

[bobbywalter]

yes....you can....

we have always done that.


especially with the bigger engines. just saves the time popping the rivots......which if you are experienced, only takes less then an hour, but absolutely suck to do and makes a mess. and with a street truck there is no reason to drop the rivots....unless rotted out.

depending on particulars...5/16 strap or c channel to bolt in as a replacement...or re bond the section removed....old hat. been done like that since the beginning..

 

[Josh B]

I like the way it helps them corner on a tight 45

 

[Daniel Black]

My Uncle came up with a plan to cut out the center between the headers. This way the sway bar can still be bolted back up and we can bolt in a small piece of flat stock to strengthen it back up. With a little twisting and turning the bellhousing went back in with the extra room and now it's serviceable for the future.

I should point out that this motor is as far back as I could possibly get it. It has a factory 2.9 Ranger radiator in the stock location and a mechanical fan with plenty of clearance. This probably wouldn't be a problem for the guys that have the motor 8" too far forward and have a recessed radiator with pusher fans to clear the water pump pulley.