Did steering column swap, now I have electrical problems

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

I swapped out the steering columns between my '90 2.9 and my '90 2.3 because I wanted a tilt wheel in my "new" '90. The problem is I have full power inside the cab but none to the starter or fuel pump. Turned the switch on for the first time in two years and was expecting to hear the fuel pump sing, but it didn't. I then tried to start it out of curiosity and .....nothing! Could the problem be the different column? Everything hooked up fine and looked the same on the wiring harness. Emergency flashers work but the turn signals don't blink, just light up. I'm thinkin' flasher went bad over the past two years. Gauges all work as does the radio, heater blower, dome light, everything in the cab is fine just no power to the starter and fuel pump. Everything on the outside of the engine is new, just about everything under the hood is new except A/C. Any ideas? Anxiously waiting for your replies. It's been over two years now ('cause 8 strokes got in the way and caused a rather lengthy delay) and I WANT TO DRIVE MY TRUCK AGAIN! Before I have another stroke or the Covid gets me. I sure would appreciate ANY and ALL help.

 

[RobbieD]

First, make sure that the ignition switch connector is fully seated and its locking tabs are locked in. Then, look closely at the ignition switch itself, to see if there's ANY signs that the plastic part is separated from the metal part (even slightly can cause what you're describing). Try squeezing the switch, while you try turning the key and see if it'll start.

These older ignition switches are known for the two main pieces to loosen, and the switch looses contacts. If this is your problem, you can try tie-wrapping the switch (with harness connector), or just replace it.

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

First, make sure that the ignition switch connector is fully seated and its locking tabs are locked in. Then, look closely at the ignition switch itself, to see if there's ANY signs that the plastic part is separated from the metal part (even slightly can cause what you're describing). Try squeezing the switch, while you try turning the key and see if it'll start.

These older ignition switches are known for the two main pieces to loosen, and the switch looses contacts. If this is your problem, you can try tie-wrapping the switch (with harness connector), or just replace it.

Hi RobbieD, I dropped the column and took off the shroud, checked all plugs and everything is plugged in and tight. As far as the switch goes, I don't see any plastic on the switch itself at all, nothing to squeeze. Now I did try to squeeze and wiggle the plastic block that all the wires plug in to but it's tight, no play at all. I did notice that the fuel gauge is not working so there is NO power to the fuel pump. Guess I'll get my book out, start reading and tracing wires?!

 

[Ranger850]

Check the fuses.

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Check the fuses.

WILL DO, RIGHT NOW.

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

WILL DO, RIGHT NOW.

Fuses are all good, big ones under the hood too and I checked inertia switch too.

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Check the fuses.

fuses are all good, under the hood too and I checked the inertia switch also.

 

[RobbieD]

Guess I'll get my book out, start reading and tracing wires?!

Yes. With a wiring schematic for your truck and a voltmeter or test light, start at the ignition switch and start testing for voltage where it should be when the switch is operated. I think that there's the EVTM schematics you need in TRD tech library, but if you need any let me know. I don't know what all you've done to the truck, but remember that grounding wires are just as important as power wires.

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

I wish I was as well grounded as this truck, every ground wire that I can find from front bumper to back bumper has been cleaned, sanded (both the wire and surface) and securely tightened. I tried jumping the two big posts on the solenoid switch yesterday and had a neat fireworks show, scared the crap outta me, wasn't expecting that. I then tried jumping the hot post to the small post(brass, lower) that was designated as the "S" post for the starter and nothing. Just out of curiosity I jumped the hot post to the other small post on top of the solenoid (silver) and the starter fired up. So, I moved the small wire from the brass post to the silver post and tried starting it with the switch and NOTHING. At that point I had to stop and come back in the house, thermometer in the garage was reading 98 degrees, too much for me and my COPD.

 

[RobbieD]

It sounds like you actually have two issues going on, because the fuel pump is controlled by ECM, and the starter is controlled by the ignition switch.

 

[Angie]

just to clarify, you are not mixing up the"key tumbler" & the actual "ignition switch"? they are 2 different pieces.

 

[RobbieD]

just to clarify, you are not mixing up the"key tumbler" & the actual "ignition switch"? they are 2 different pieces.

Thank you for asking @Angie, as I was just wondering the same thing.

Here's two 1990 steering columns. The ignition switch "key tumblers" are on the left, then the electrical part are the white plastic and metal "boxes" about halfway down the columns:

The connector that plugs into the electrical ignition switch is where you'll need to test circuits for voltage, should it come to that.

 

[Angie]

Robbie, yeah, it almost reads like the throw is off on the metal rod in the "switch"

cheers

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Actually I was. When I think of ignition switch I'm thinkin' of the switch where you put the key into. Duh! I did check the actual switch to make sure the wires were fully seated. Thanx for the clarification, it just reminds me of how much of a mechanic I am NOT. The steering columns SHOULD be interchangeable ...shouldn't they. Wiring harness's look identical, the only difference being is that the old truck had cruise and my "new 90" does not.

 

[Angie]

you need to go back and set up the throw for the rod that controls the switch, it is a bit precise to set up. search it out i am sure it is in here "how to adjust ignition switch"