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d35 into a 2wd


GIJoe4500

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Are there any real complications in swapping a d35 (91 Explorer) into a 1988 2wd Ranger? Or is it really all a bolt in? I know the engine crossmember will be a problem.. I just don't know if there will be any more problems I'd run into.
 


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IF only we still had the other database, you'd be able to search out the answer to this as its been discussed a few times recently.

There is a LOT of work involved in turning a 2WD into a 4WD and the general concensus is that its a better idea to sell the 2WD ranger, and just buy a 4WD ranger. Then if you want the Dana 35 in it instead of a Dana 28 its a pretty simple bolt in swap. Cant remember who, but I believe its either Johnny or Will that did the last technical write up on it. Maybe PM them to see if they can help you if they dont spot this thread.
 

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The crossmember is a real PITA, but that would be all.
Once the 4x4 crossmember is in place, everything should bolt right up.
 

GIJoe4500

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Would I be able to maybe build another cross member further up the frame (maybe a welded on bumper or something), then just completely cut out the engine cross member?
 

Capt Jay

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Don't do it.
Buy a 4x4.
 

GIJoe4500

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I'm not exactly made of money... Its not as easy as everyone says it is to just "buy a 4x4." The only reason I'm asking is because I can get the d35 TTB for dirt cheap, and I already have the truck.

So... If I were to completely remove the 2wd crossmember, and weld on a strong bumper to the front of the frame, would I be able to bolt on the D35 TTB stuff? Or do I HAVE to have the 4x4 crossmember?

If you are just going to tell me to buy a 4x4, please, don't reply to this thread...
 

JohnnyU

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The TTB "Stuff" bolts to the crossmember. The 2wd and 4wd cross members are different so the 4wd brackets won't bolt up correctly. This is the reason for needing to swap crossmembers.....
 

GIJoe4500

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Ah ok. I didn't know that. Thank you for clarifying instead of just telling me to buy a 4x4. I truly appreciate it.
 

rotty_rott

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I converted my '84 to 4wd about a year ago and i don't think it's really as difficult as everyone makes it out to be. yes the hardest part is getting the engine crossmembers out of both vehicles, but after they are both removed it's a piece of cake from there. it's just a bunch of grinding, torching, drilling and beating to get the crossmembers out and then everything just bolts back together for the most part. i already had the 2wd truck with a fairly fresh motor in it and i got the donor vehicle for $75. I probably have $75 or so in bolts, torch gas, and other odds and ends and another $100 in having a driveshaft lengthened so i've got about $250 in the swap and somewhere in the neighborhood of 16 hours of labor and i couldn't have bought a 4wd for $250 more than what i could sell my truck for. i drove it through the snow, and hauled firewood out of the timber all winter and drive it when i need to haul something during the summer and haven't had any problems and don't really have any complaints other than i wish i had put a l/s in the rear earlier, but i did it a month or so ago, now i'll probably wish i put one in the front as well, but that'll just have to wait. not everyone has the money to sell their truck and buy a 4wd and i think it was well worth the work to save the money i would have spent buying one.

mike
 

GIJoe4500

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Thanks for the encouragement Rotty rott... After removing the crossmembers, how did you get the 4x4 one into the 2wd? Did you bolt it in, or did you weld it in? As much information as you can give me would be WONDERFUL.
 

rotty_rott

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i drilled all the rivet holes out to accept 1/2" bolts and just bolted it back in. i could've rewelded it with short beads to the inside of the frame rails like it was from the factory, but i decided to just bolt it in and keep an eye on it and have yet to have any problems with it. i kept the original 2wd front coil buckets and coils and only have around 1 1/2" height difference between the front and rear, which i plan on leveling out with washer coil spacers when it cools off some. i think the 4wd coil buckets sit a little lower on the frame than the 2wd buckets do and because of this i had to use extensions on the front shock studs to make them reach and give me enough droop. i believe the coil springs are the same for 2wd and 4wd depending on the engine. to get enough room to get the crossmembers out i unbolted the front body mounts under the radiator support and used an old bumper jack between the frame rails to spread them out a little. other than that it was a pretty straight forward swap. i'm not an expert or anything, but i did successfully do this swap without a problem so if you have any questions i'll try to help out as much as i can. i hope this helps.

mike
 

GIJoe4500

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Awesome. Thanks again Rotty Rott.

My only problem now will be finding a 4x4 I can rob the crossmember from. They don't exactly let you take torches and grinders into the local junkyards...which really sucks.. But now that I know all this, my search can start.
 

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If you can't go through it or around it, then go over it.
it might be easier to coonvert a 2wd to 4wd unsing a straight axle........ just a thought
 

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it might be easier to coonvert a 2wd to 4wd unsing a straight axle........ just a thought
That is the route I would go as well, it isn't easy but neither is stripping your truck to the frame and then taking the frame apart too.
 

GIJoe4500

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Yea, I know it would be easier with a straight axle. The more and more I read about putting in a d35 the less worthwhile it sounds. Aside from the trac bar and the steering, an EB dana 44 is more of a bolt in than a d28 or d35 is. At least that's the way it seems by what I've read.
 

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