2.3L ('02-'11) Cooling System Maintenance - 2011 w/ 2.3

[Bronco648]

Hi All,

I have a 2011 RCSB with the 2.3L four cylinder and auto tranny. The truck has just under 125K miles. Based on some of the things I've already replaced (plugs, wires, belt, fuel filter, shocks, PCV valve, etc.) the truck got some maintenance but not a lot. I think it's time to address the cooling system. But, I was wondering how many hoses to replace.

My plan was to replace the coolant, upper & lower radiator hoses, t-stat and water pump. The basic stuff.

My question is: should I replace all of the heater hoses as well?

There seems to be three or four hoses up near the heater core and then there's that long one that snakes around the back of the engine and is only available from Ford (Motorcraft) and is expensive. The hoses appear to be in good shape (by looks) but that's not a true test with respect to their soundness.

What say you?

TIA, Dave.

 

[pjtoledo]

the other hoses are 12 years old. do you have comfortable walking shoes?

joking aside, hoses are much better than they used to be.
most of the hoses on my similar 2005 lasted 350,000 miles and were replaced a couple years ago.

 

[Bronco648]

the other hoses are 12 years old. do you have comfortable walking shoes?

joking aside, hoses are much better than they used to be.
most of the hoses on my similar 2005 lasted 350,000 miles and were replaced a couple years ago.

It's interesting, my radiator hoses have that pale, faded black appearance that looks like hoses that are worn out. The heater hoses look relatively new in comparison. But, point taken. I'll probably replace them all.

 

[Bronco648]

I'll answer my own question: yes, you can re-use constant tension hose clamps. If you are re-using the same clamp on a hose that's not being replaced, be sure to put the clamp back in the same location (by using the clamp imprint on the hose itself).

I replaced all hoses with the exception of that hose/hard line that runs from the t-stat housing on the driver's side to the overflow tank on the passenger side. I re-used all of the existing CT clamps and none are leaking. I also changed the t-stat and water pump. Added fresh coolant and I should be good to go for a long time.

Pro Tip when replacing the water pump: if the pump has been installed for a long period of time, it may be (slightly) seized in the housing. Be careful when prying behind the bolt hole 'ears', they're weak and will break off if used as a pry point (DAMHIK). The OE pump has three pry point bosses. I found that if the power steering pump is unbolted from the block, there's more room to operate near the water pump. The pump is best removed by pulling it straight out of the cover (towards the radiator). If you try to pry it out from one point, it won't easily come out because of how tightly it fits in the cover. I ended up working three pry points at the 11, 3 and 7 o'clock positions. Use Scotch-Brite to clean out the cover opening and try not to introduce debris into the water jacket while doing so. A little anti-seize around where the pump meets the cover and some silicone on the O-ring should insure that the pump seals and is easily removed, in the future.

 

[pjtoledo]

when the thermostat is removed it gives a clear shot at the back of the pump.
use something suitable to pound it out from the rear.

another trick is to attempt rotating the pump, tapping (pounding) on the tabs to slightly rotate it back 'n forth.
that breaks the corrosion and doesn't screw up the block.

I prefer constant tension clamps, and re-use them.

 

[Bronco648]

when the thermostat is removed it gives a clear shot at the back of the pump.
use something suitable to pound it out from the rear.

I thought about that but I didn't have anything I thought would fit in that opening. It's also pretty busy under the intake manifold and wasn't sure if you could even swing a hammer.

another trick is to attempt rotating the pump, tapping (pounding) on the tabs to slightly rotate it back 'n forth.
that breaks the corrosion and doesn't screw up the block.

I did that (tapping the tabs to rotate the pump) and I think that's when I knew it would come out OK. It was still a PITA to get it out tho. Long screwdrivers and small pry bars ultimately worked. I was thinking that a short piece of angle iron (like from a bed frame) bolted to the impeller shaft might have worked, too. That way you could wiggle the pump, rotate the lever and wiggle from a different angle (lather, rinse, repeat).

I prefer constant tension clamps, and re-use them.

They're much easier on the hose than a worm gear clamp.