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Axles for ranger(Debate)


hotrod

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Hey i have a 85 ranger with dana 28 front axle and dana 7.5 rear. I put 9" of lift on it (3 body 6 SUS) and added(needs finished) a 5.0 H.O.(91 mustang). Am currently running 35" BFG MT and know the axles wont handle it. I have a dana 30 out of a cherokee that looks fairly simple to install(1/2'') on each side wider But with the 35's dont think it will hold up either(planning on 5.13 gears). Would I be better off finding a EB 44 or a dana 60(which i prefer) What all is involved in installing dana 60 (1979ish f250 front) do these have leaves or coils up front? Also what are the benefits of a gm 14 to a dana 60?(rear) I also plan on 4-linking it one day or should i dream further and try for rockwell 2.5 ton axles lol. I can get the dana 60's supposedly from a 79 f-250 but need to do more homework to know how to tell. Should i jump on them both or decide on the 9" i already have (needs narrowed also) any help I am greatful for........Rod
 


Hahnsb2

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Well, first off you cant get 5.13s for the D30. I think a D60 would be a bit overkill on 35s bit if you plan to go bigger it couldn't hurt to do it now. The 14 bolt is much stronger than the D60 rear, as I recall it's somewhere around D70 strength and they're cheap, but again a 14 bolt is a little overkill for 35s.
 

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Thanks, I would rather do this once as I am not the best fabricator. It took me 2 years to get the 5.0(AHHHHHH the wiring) in the truck and i lost 30# from the hair I ripped out LOL. Anyway good to know my gears arn't available for the dana 30. I am pleased to learn that the 14 bolt(gm) is not needed as I do not want to hear from my GM buddies that I have a Gm axle. I may look into the dana60 for the rear as well. thanks for the input. Any ideas on how to narrow them?(like the 44 where you cut 6" off) Is it that easy?
 
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dana 60 and 14 bolt is a awsome combo but not needed for 35s. Good luck getting a dana 60 from a 79 f-150 cause all the ones ive ever seen came with dana 44s. but if you can get it and the d44/d60 is a good combo. The f 250 dana 44 is a good axle (3" 1/2" wall tubes and dual piston front brakes) thats whats going in my ranger when i get it. (got the axles but no truck :( ) It will hold up to 35s no problems. oh yeah its leaf sprung so that would be good for 4 link but i dunno why you wouldnt go 3 link radius arms. Im gonna go leafs personally.
 

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Actually IMO, 35s is right where a D60 and say, a Sterling 10.25" just start to become viable (37s would be an ideal starting point however).

If you've even thought about going real big though, I would probably suggest skipping the smaller axles like the D44 and just start with the D60 and a Sterling 10.25" (the GM 14-bolt is a big-time land anchor unless you do some surgery on it). When your 35s wear out, you'll have the ability to throw something bigger on there without any worries. You can get gear ratios as deep as 5.38 for these axles too.
 

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Thanks for info, but I have thought of going smaller with maybe 33/12.5 or more of a lift still deciding. I would rather go overkill though, in case I change my mind later . I dont know much of the sterling axles though. I want to make it tough as Im kinda hard on it. (Well I beat the snot out of it.) I have a little more homework apparently.
 

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Rockwells are cheaper than a D60/14 bolt combo but putting 35son them would be like castrating a thoroughbred horse.
A few fellow club members got a steer rok for $650 and a rear non steer for $200. All complete hub to hub and he got 4 wheels(for each set) with them to use the wheel centers. All from a shop in Omaha Nebraska.
 
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yeah if you beat the piss out of it i would go bigger but i dunno if you wanna go rockwells unless your thinkin really big. They are not really streetable without 44+ inch tires. The sterling is an excellent choice and you can find em cheap. There are several versions. 10.5 inch ring and pinion full float is basically ford version of the 14 bolt almost exactly the same as far as strength. There is a 10.25 r and p too i think (kinda like the 14 bolt semi floater) And then there is the 9.75 version found in late model f150s and expeditions which are basically same as d60 for strength. Sterlings started in the 80s in f250s and got more and more popular and are easy to convert to disk brakes(some come with them) Hope that helps
-Evan
 

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Thanks man thats good to know I try to find them at the boneyard.
 

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yeah if you beat the piss out of it i would go bigger but i dunno if you wanna go rockwells unless your thinkin really big. They are not really streetable without 44+ inch tires. The sterling is an excellent choice and you can find em cheap. There are several versions. 10.5 inch ring and pinion full float is basically ford version of the 14 bolt almost exactly the same as far as strength. There is a 10.25 r and p too i think (kinda like the 14 bolt semi floater) And then there is the 9.75 version found in late model f150s and expeditions which are basically same as d60 for strength. Sterlings started in the 80s in f250s and got more and more popular and are easy to convert to disk brakes(some come with them) Hope that helps
-Evan
99 and up sterlings use a odd metric pattern though, so Try and stay away from those.
 

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Nothing wrong with the metric pattern if you also get the front D60 out of the same truck to match. These Sterlings will have disc brakes from the factory.
 

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So if i got this right, Im hunting for a 99-up f-250(4x4 for both axles) with disc brakes. Do the sterling axles have a D.O.M # like dana or do I have to go by VIN#(to identify). I can always change the bolt pattern or change rims. I need bead locks anyway. but this will be the 9.75? If i go older though I can get the 10.5. If I go older i will have to convert to disc? How much strongre is the 10.5 over the 9.75 anyway? Is it worth converting? Thanks Rod
 

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10.25 Sterling is far better because it's a full float axle...the other one is a semi-floater
 

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Nothing wrong with the metric pattern if you also get the front D60 out of the same truck to match. These Sterlings will have disc brakes from the factory.
You limit your wheel selection and the aftermarket for those axles isnt as good as a regular set of 1 tons (8x6.5)
 

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I personally would go for 99+ axles, and re-drill the older bolt pattern (8x6.5) that way you will have both patterns (8x170mm and 8x6.5) not limiting you to a certain wheel.
SVT
 

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