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All-aluminum aftermarket radiator for 4.0 SOHC Rangers?


ekrampitzjr

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The stock radiators have plastic in the radiator construction, and like the thermostat housing, the plastic likes to crack and leak over time. Right now there's no problem.

I changed the coolant right after buying the truck when it had 101,000 miles on it and am using Motorcraft Gold as specified. The truck has 133K on it now. There's no reason to suspect any clogs or other problems in the system. The water pump was changed a while back.

I've been debating buying an aftermarket all-aluminum radiator to replace the stock unit and avoid this problem. There appear to be at least 3 manufacturers offering these. All those I looked at online have proivision for the A/T lines.

Have any of you done this change? Does installing a new radiator affect the A/C condensor? Thanks for your thoughts.
 


DILLARD000

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About 3yrs ago on this 2001 V6~4.0L~SOHC
swapped out stock JunkPlasticTanked 2Core Radiator for an AllAluminum 4Core Radiator;
also swapped the stock Radiator Rubber Hoses for StainlessFlex Hoses.
Previously swapped out stock JunkPlastic ThermoStatHousing for an Aluminum version.
No regrets.
2011 V6~4.0L~SOHC may have different radiator dimensions, but same logic applies;
AC Condensor may be part of a Radiator subassembly on later models, unsure.
TransCooler ATF loop connections can be abandoned or left unused on either old\new radiator.
Hopefully this helps.
Links below to more info on this Radiator swap & more:

2001.Ford_Cool.Rad4_APFO.2173_4of4.GIF

2001.Ford_Cool.Rad~.0DXa.GIF
 
Last edited:

LukeBizzy

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I did the cheap ebay aluminum radiator swap on my 2008 FX4 4.0 a couple years ago while I was doing the aluminum thermostat housing swap. There was no problem fitting the A/C condenser (I changed that at the same time) that I remember.

While the cheap rad did fit, it was not a good fit & I did a lot of tweaking to get it to fit right. Honestly, its still not right but "in there". If I knew what I know now, I would have just went for a quality factory style replacement. Yes, its cools like mad, no, still not happy with it. My suggestion is a lower temp thermostat & better fan control. My clutch fan was the main problem, so I ditched that & added a 16" electric fan & controller. I never see temps over 200, ever. I know I could do the same with a factory radiator. Not your question but just saying.

FYI, here's what I got.
 

Broosedamoose

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I swapped out the radiator in my 07 XLT when I did the electric fan and thermostat housing. I got mine off eBay but it wasn’t cheap! It fit perfectly! That was like five years ago.
 

DILLARD000

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I swapped out the radiator in my 07 XLT when I did the electric fan and thermostat housing. I got mine off eBay but it wasn’t cheap! It fit perfectly! That was like five years ago.
The 4Core AllAluminum I installed was ~$200 delivered; that was then, no doubt higher now.
 

ekrampitzjr

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Just ordered a replacement all-aluminum radiator from Radiator Express. It's 1-row and is supposed to be an exact replacement for the aluminum + plastic original. The ones with 3 or more rows require bracket modifications, and I wanted something more plug-and-play.

Will look at swapping radiators when it's time to change coolant at 150,000 miles. That will probably be in the spring. Since I'm draining the coolant anyway, etc.
 

ekrampitzjr

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Got the radiator.

Those of you who replaced your factory radiator with an aftermarket unit, did you have any problems connecting the automatic-transmission lines to the new radiator on the driver's side? The factory radiator has two sleeves with a large hex head that the transmission lines screw into, while the new one has a smaller threaded bung projecting from the same area for each line.
 

cbxer55

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Mine is a 98 with 194,000 miles. Still have the stock radiator and thermostat housing. Never had a problem with it. But yeah, I know the thermostat housing on the 4.0 is a biatch. Had a 07 stang with that stuff, and that was the first thing to go bad. Replaced it with a one-piece aluminum part.
 

Broosedamoose

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Got the radiator.

Those of you who replaced your factory radiator with an aftermarket unit, did you have any problems connecting the automatic-transmission lines to the new radiator on the driver's side? The factory radiator has two sleeves with a large hex head that the transmission lines screw into, while the new one has a smaller threaded bung projecting from the same area for each line.
I had to change the fittings on the end of the AT lines to fit the radiator.
 

ekrampitzjr

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I had to change the fittings on the end of the AT lines to fit the radiator.
Thanks for this! Where did you get the replacement fittings? Any part numbers etc.?
 

DILLARD000

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...any problems connecting the automatic-transmission lines to the new radiator on the driver's side? The factory radiator has two sleeves with a large hex head that the transmission lines screw into, while the new one has a smaller threaded bung projecting from the same area for each line.
On my 2001 V6~4.0L~SOHC, for the Radiator swap from original PlasticTank 2Core to new 4Core AllAluminum ,
had to grind down original fittings for TransCooler ATF loop to fit the new Radiator connections (pics below).
Unsure if your year+model original+replacement have those same connections or not.
Click here for more detailed info on this radiator swap,


 

Broosedamoose

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2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31 x 10.5
My credo
Coming in second just makes you the first loser!

ekrampitzjr

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Yesterday I got some radiator connectors for ATF lines off junked Rangers at Johnson's Mustang & Truck Parts in Chesapeake, which is one of the few remaining yards that lets you pull your own parts. The connectors came off trucks with front-end damage, so I didn't clip off a good ATF line that could have been reused. Checked one with the bungs on the new radiator today. Turns out I can use the factory connectors unmodified with this new radiator when I install it, so it will be a lot closer to plug 'n play. No need to grind down the connectors as Dillard000 shows. That's always good news.

The connector with the larger hex, which is screwed into the factory radiator, that the line connector screws into isn't needed with the new radiator, but I got two of those too just in case. The bung is threaded for the ATF line connector.
 

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