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Well I guess I don't know as much about rack and pinion steering as I thought I did.
Because a 15:1 rack and pinion would require 15 complete turns of the steering wheel to get the rack from stop to stop.... at least that's my understanding of how they work.
Nice, I am gonna do the mazda 3 electric power steering with a fox rack, It was recommended by @PetroleumJunkie412 who I dont think is on here anymore. He said the voltage can be controlled by the top post on the alternator. I also wanna go 4 lug so I can run 10 hole wheels. I have a trick flow top end kit I wanna put on my 306. I will mostly be convinced to use the frame I just got as a mock up and use 2x4 120 wall steel by my friend who build T's and model A's. But im gonna wait to do this project after I get the Notchback where I want it, Also I still want to build a T bucket or model A. I also have an 88 ranger I am collecting parts for to run a 353T Detroit diesel...... so I am just gonna run my 5.0 ranger as a daily driver like I have been doing.....I haven’t got that far yet. I’ll have to do a complete custom steering shaft with 3 joints in it going through a heim joint on the frame to clear the headers on the v8. But I’m also adapting electronic power steering to the stock ranger column. I could post a pic of the rack installed this weekend. I got the suspension all off and cleaned up the rails/painted them. Plus I now have the rack, bump steer kit and rotors. Hopefully I have time to test fit the motor too
Perfect. Sounds like we have the same idea. I ordered the TKX transmission. If you haven’t seen it yet check it out. Looking like I’ll use the center shifter location which I’ll only need a slight bend in the shifter. Going to use a 4an fitting on the stock master and a full LS7 clutch assembly. I won’t know what shifter will work until I get the transmission mounted and get the seats I’m using mounted. It’s looking like the stock transmission crossmember will work with a little modificationI used the stock clutch master cylinder with the Tilton 6000 series slave and the braided AN hose, and AN adapter. All purchased through Modern Driveline. I did have to make a clutch pedal stop to remove a small amount of pedal throw so as not to overstroke the slave cylinder. You wouldn't know it wasn't a completely stock clutch setup if you drove it. The pedal stop bracket is a simple piece of angle iron with two holes drilled in it for mounting. I used one factory hole in a bracket on the pedal box, and drilled on more hole beside it with a compact 90 degree drill.
The entire setup has been flawless except for the cheap Chinese flat-faced bearing used on the Tilton 6000 series slave ($50 each and only available through Tilton) but the 2nd one I installed has been good so far. I had the adjustable depth slave cylinder adjusted to the best of my ability, but I suspect after the new clutch and pressure plate broke-in, the clearances changed, leading to that bearing wearing out prematurely. The suitable clearances are in the thousandths after all..
I went with the T5Z from Modern Driveline with the front mount / rear socket tail housing so I could keep the stock shifter location and stock shifter boot. The #6900 Hurst shifter lever that MDL sold me worked for a couple years, but was within mm's of the dash, so I bought a Hurst #7236 shift lever and it's a perfect fit. I'll be selling that Hurst #6900 on here sometime soon.