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95 Ranger E Brake redo....... HELP!!


smilinjack

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Hello to all, hope everyone is stayin healthy!
So, pulled out my leafs and axle and replaced with a ladder bar with coil overs, 07 -8.8, and the rest.
Didn't think to take a look at the parking brake set up, just tore it out. I've ordered and received a Dorman middle cable, right rear and left rear cables. The front cable and brake pedal are intact so I'm just going to reattach to the original front with the new parts. I can figure out how to mount a bracket to secure the passenger side cable (with the prongs) but I don't have a clue how to hook up the drivers side cable to that to make them pull together??? Also, the mid cable I got from Dorman is like 3' too long (4' total length) and appears to be almost unnecessary! I have a standard cab, (short wheel base). I've looked at diagrams on line but I'm not seein my set up. Do I need a 2 hole bracket or a special equalizer coupling or something?? The drivers side cable has the slug(?) on the end of the cable that would go into one of those couplings. Any help is appreciated, a picture would be awesome! Thanks, Jack
 


sgtsandman

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If I remember correctly, there is a metal bracket that both rear cables hook into that connects to the front cable. It’s been a while since I’ve worked on the cables for a Ranger and it was newer than yours but the setup should be the same.
 

Uncle Gump

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Yeah... there is an equalizer. I believe the driver cable floats while the passenger cable housing is held stationary. The float (spring connects from housing to frame) in the driver cable is what actuates the passenger cable.
 

smilinjack

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Thanks for the replies. So the only way I see this working is if both cable (f+r) sheaths are secured and the pull cable from the front is coupled to both??
I don't see how a floating cable sheath can have the pull cable within pulled forward if it's just floating (unsecured). Any chance of somebody shooting a pic of the application on their ranger? Sorry for being a dinosaur:unsure: . I'm just not seein' it.
 

franklin2

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Do you have the bracket on the frame and the triangle bar that the cables hook into?

 

Uncle Gump

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Thanks for the replies. So the only way I see this working is if both cable (f+r) sheaths are secured and the pull cable from the front is coupled to both??
I don't see how a floating cable sheath can have the pull cable within pulled forward if it's just floating (unsecured). Any chance of somebody shooting a pic of the application on their ranger? Sorry for being a dinosaur:unsure: . I'm just not seein' it.
There are a few different ways to do this on a Ranger I believe.... but this is what I was talking about.

46873
 

franklin2

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There are a few different ways to do this on a Ranger I believe.... but this is what I was talking about.

View attachment 46873
The factory comes up with some cheesy ways to do things sometimes. I guess it's all to save a buck per truck or a couple of seconds putting each one together. I personally would set it up like the f150's if the cables would mount in a frame bracket. I always home make my repairs on the system using u-bolts, and common hardware. They live a rough life on the outside of the frame.
 

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I'll try to remember to take a picture of my 2011 brake cables tomorrow. It may be a different configuration than what you have though.
 

smilinjack

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Very Cool! I appreciate the photo (every picture tells a story, don't it!). I also appreciate the do it yourself advise. I typically do one" off things" to most of my projects but only if I understand the operations and effects of what I'm doin! So, thanks to all for your inputs. This site has been a huge benefit for sourcing info, experience, and parts. Oh yeah, and opinions too!😂
 

smilinjack

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ford ranger
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My credo
Always bite off more than you can chew!! :)
Would ya happen to have a part number for that equalizer piece? It didn't come with the Dorman cables I purchased.
 

smilinjack

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Ford (6L1Z-2A602-AA) ??
 

sgtsandman

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Here is a picture of my cables for you.

46915
 

franklin2

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What a rig. Looks like the fat cable slides in the frame bracket. When you pull on the cable up front, the large cable just slides in the frame bracket, and it pulls on the smaller cable, applying that side e-brake. When those shoes on that side get tight, the small cable stops, so that stops the large cable sheath from sliding and as you continue to pull it starts pulling on the large cable guts and starts applying the e brake on the other side. I suppose it works.
 

smilinjack

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ford ranger
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2"
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315 /35- 17
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Always bite off more than you can chew!! :)
Thanks guys, I now have a clue!! Not sure about what, but I’m definitely havin a clue 😂😂
 

Uncle Gump

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That is the exact set up I described. driver cable should have a return spring to the frame to pull it back.... just saying.
 

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