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85 Ranger - where to start under the hood


KimB

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Vehicle Year
1985
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
2.8 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Couple of suggestions for you...

Butt connectors and wire tie connectors do not belong in the engine compartment. Its just a matter of time before the elements get to them then your have real troubles. Also, on the module there should be something like a dielectric grease under it to protect it. When you buy a module a little tube comes with it.

What is the proper connector type to use?
 


ericbphoto

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Wellford, SC
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
Best is to strip, twist, solder and cover with heat shrink. Crimp connectors are probably second best. They are prone to corrosion from moisture and salt. That leads to bad connections that cause problems. Usually intermittent problems.. They are difficult to troubleshoot because most people never suspect that that is the problem.
 

kimcrwbr1

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Location
maplevalley WA
Vehicle Year
1983
Make / Model
ford
Engine Size
2.8l
Transmission
Automatic
Hi Folks,
first time poster here with some questions about a 1985 ranger I recently bought. Under the hood is a real mess, vacuum lines missing or broken, various plugs / broken wires that arent connected into anything, stuff like that.

The truck is currently running (although not well).
-idle is very high.
-Ive got to pump the gas half a dozen times on a cold start, and even then sometimes it will stall out right away (even with manual choke on), and will stall moving into reverse or drive until it warms up. Sometimes upon touching the gas, it will stumble and almost stall before recovering and accelerating.
-truck seems gutless, even for a 35 year old 2.8l engine.

i want to switch to the duraspark ignition and non feedback carb as described in the tech section, but its such a mess under the hood, Im not even sure whats been done to it before and what would need to be done to work properly...

This was a farm truck for a long time and it seems like theres been a few farmer fixes over the years.
Here are some pictures to show you whats going on.View attachment 58378View attachment 58379View attachment 58380






Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated!

Kim
First you need to source the duraspark dizzy. Is there a three wire or a six wire harness going to the distributor? If the computer is still in control of the ignition it will never run good. It needs all the inputs working for advance to work properly. The distributor is getting much more difficult to find any late seventies pinto, Capri or mustang two with the 2.8 would have everything you need if it has not been stripped. Anything with a carb usually goes directly to the crusher unless you get real lucky with a barn find somewhere. If it has the three wire distributor your in luck you have two options duraspark or HEI module.
 

KimB

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Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
2.8 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
First you need to source the duraspark dizzy. Is there a three wire or a six wire harness going to the distributor? If the computer is still in control of the ignition it will never run good. It needs all the inputs working for advance to work properly. The distributor is getting much more difficult to find any late seventies pinto, Capri or mustang two with the 2.8 would have everything you need if it has not been stripped. Anything with a carb usually goes directly to the crusher unless you get real lucky with a barn find somewhere. If it has the three wire distributor your in luck you have two options duraspark or HEI module.
Yeah, the junkyards ive called or visited basically have nothing that old. Except for old f150s...a lot of those for some reason.
 

Dirt Squirt

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Silver Spring, MD
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2003
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Ranger FX4 L2
Transmission
Automatic
Best is to strip, twist, solder and cover with heat shrink. Crimp connectors are probably second best. They are prone to corrosion from moisture and salt. That leads to bad connections that cause problems. Usually intermittent problems.. They are difficult to troubleshoot because most people never suspect that that is the problem.
And for the love of God, do not ever use a scotch-lock for anything. If you see them, throw them out immediately without hesitation.
 

franklin2

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1984
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Bronco II
Transmission
Manual
Best thing you guys can do for reliable connections in the driver's side fender area is to make a rubber shield and bolt it in so it's draped over the steering box area. Both my BII and my 86 ranger had the same problem; Lots of connections over there, and after driving in the winter salt, everything is covered over there with it. When you make a turn, the driver's side front tire slings all that junk all over the coil and all the connectors. I made a shield out of old rubber roofing and bolted it to the inner fender to cover that big opening above the frame, and it's nice and clean up there now.
 

sgtsandman

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Aliquippa, PA
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2011/2019
Make / Model
Ranger XLT/FX4
Engine Size
4.0 SOHC/2.3 Ecoboost
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
Pre-2008 lift/Stock
Tire Size
31X10.5R15/265/65R17
I've used butt connectors on wiring that have the heat shrink casing after making sure the connection is solid and won't pull apart. Another layer of heat shrink with the glue/sealant is then slid over to make sure everything is sealed. Then plastic wire loom wrapped in electrical tap for that "professional" look.
 

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