'85 Bronco II Paint & Body Thread

[RobbieD]

On mine the screw clamps on the hoses don't look OEM, but the hoses could have been replaced at some point. Otherwise, it's all proper for factory installed.

You're really doing good on that B2. I think that it's going to be a sharp truck when you get done.

 

[ford4wd08]

On mine the screw clamps on the hoses don't look OEM, but the hoses could have been replaced at some point. Otherwise, it's all proper for factory installed.

View attachment 72668


You're really doing good on that B2. I think that it's going to be a sharp truck when you get done.

I definitely replaced mine, they were original hoses. That can burn a turn down quick if they leak going down the highway!

My new cooler is bigger but not huge.

 

[ford4wd08]

My paint has arrived. Appears to be a great match from what I can tell from the interior and where the seals covered the factory paint. Luckily I'm doing the whole rig, so the match won't matter that much.

 

[ford4wd08]

Paint is going on this weekend. Going to be 75 and sunny on Saturday with light winds, doubt I get any better conditions than that.

 

[ford4wd08]

Today is the day, won't get any better conditions than this! I'll let it warm up for a little while longer, then time to get painting.

 

[RobbieD]

Good luck! Looking forward to seeing the results.

 

[ford4wd08]

So.... I got paint on before the big winds came, but I had some issue.

Paint has no gloss and seemed to be almost dry when it hit the panel.

It stuck and cover well, but has a rough texture to it....

I used a standard hardner (70-80 degrees) and a new harbor freight purple gun. Temps outside hit 70 degrees when I started. I did let the brocno sit outside in the sun for a minute while I finished taping. Maybe the panels got too hot?

So I'm guessing two things, new gun was a dud (I had the fluid basically wide open and had air pressure set the same, same regulator in fact) or my hardner needs to be a slow one to help.

I've heard that the slow gives the best gloss.

I did clean and check my pattern on gun before use. I was able to get good smooth gloss almost out of the primer.

Good be user error. I'll do some research.

All I know to do is sand and paint again.

Any advice?

Luckily it only too about half of my gallon of paint.

 

[rebuild83]

If thats single stage paint it looks like you were moving to fast possibly. Did you check the air pressure at the tip?

 

[ford4wd08]

If thats single stage paint it looks like you were moving to fast possibly. Did you check the air pressure at the tip?

Yes, single stage.

Air pressure at regulator at gun was 28 lbs while trigger was pulled.

Sounds like I need to put more paint on a panel for sure.

 

[rebuild83]

try a test panel and slow your pace it will feel like its almost ready to run

 

[ford4wd08]

try a test panel and slow your pace it will feel like its almost ready to run

I think I'm going to go with a little better quality gun than the $15 harbor freight special I used. Worked great for primer, but I think I can do a little better for final coat.

I did notice door jams looked better too. Can't really go fast there....

 

[RobbieD]

Disappointing, but don't get discouraged.

It looks like the paint went on too dry, or as mentioned the gun was moving too fast. I'm sure that you were following the paint manufacturer's thinning instructions, and don't guess- do use measuring cups* or a marked jigger to get the mix exactly right. Even then the paint mix can need to be "tweaked" sometimes. The roof makes a good "test panel", as it's the least visible and lets you check the mix and get your technique dialed in before doing the hood, sides and hatch.
(* DO NOT get caught by the Mrs., or just play it safe and buy your own at the Dollar Store).

If you have to sand let the paint dry as much as you can. I think the fresh or uncured paint will gum up sandpaper pretty bad, so wet sanding may be better, along with as much drying time as you can afford. If sanding is needed, I would just level out the just-sprayed paint versus trying to remove it all down to the primer.

Does the place you got the paint from have any kind of customer support? If so it'd be worth it to reach out to them for advice, specifically for the product that you're using.

Main thing is, don't get bummed out over it. It's just another bump in the road. You've done a damn good job on resurrecting that old truck so far, so just keep beating on it.

Determination and taking your time will get you through to the finish line.

 

[ford4wd08]

Disappointing, but don't get discouraged.

It looks like the paint went on too dry, or as mentioned the gun was moving too fast. I'm sure that you were following the paint manufacturer's thinning instructions, and don't guess- do use measuring cups* or a marked jigger to get the mix exactly right. Even then the paint mix can need to be "tweaked" sometimes. The roof makes a good "test panel", as it's the least visible and lets you check the mix and get your technique dialed in before doing the hood, sides and hatch.
(* DO NOT get caught by the Mrs., or just play it safe and buy your own at the Dollar Store).

If you have to sand let the paint dry as much as you can. I think the fresh or uncured paint will gum up sandpaper pretty bad, so wet sanding may be better, along with as much drying time as you can afford. If sanding is needed, I would just level out the just-sprayed paint versus trying to remove it all down to the primer.

Does the place you got the paint from have any kind of customer support? If so it'd be worth it to reach out to them for advice, specifically for the product that you're using.

Main thing is, don't get bummed out over it. It's just another bump in the road. You've done a damn good job on resurrecting that old truck so far, so just keep beating on it.

Determination and taking your time will get you through to the finish line.

Thanks for the encouragement Robbie.

Plan is to just wet sand current paint with 800 grit to flatten it some and give new coats to stick too. Coverage was good, but I don't think I had the wet edge I needed.

I am going to try a better gun because I feel like that could help.

As far as mixing, it is 4 paint to 1 hardner. I brought the 2.5 quart plastic mixing jug at lowes. 32 oz. of paint to 8 ozs. of hardner. I did two batches of that. It says no reducer is required, but is optional.

I am thinking some slow hardner could help too, but I'll send out an email to Tamco, their customer service is very good as well. I'll see what they suggest.

I'm 99% sure this is most likely operator error or being new to painting, but no better way to learn.

It is just surprising the primer went on so well, but it is a different product.

 

[RobbieD]

Plan is to just wet sand current paint with 800 grit to flatten it some and give new coats to stick too. Coverage was good, but I don't think I had the wet edge I needed.

I am going to try a better gun because I feel like that could help.

That sounds like a very reasonable plan, and better tools never hurt!

As far as mixing, it is 4 paint to 1 hardner. I brought the 2.5 quart plastic mixing jug at lowes. 32 oz. of paint to 8 ozs. of hardner. I did two batches of that. It says now reducer is required, but is optional.

When I painted mine I found by test spraying that I needed to thin the paint just a little more than instructed to get it to lay perfectly flat. But you have to be careful about getting it too thin and thus easier to get runs. I think that the exact equipment, pressure and humidity and temp determine the best mix, so it's a "test, and adjust" thing.

Also, if you don't have it, get a cheap stirring tool from the hardware store that chucks into a low speed drill. You want to make sure that the final paint is thoroughly mixed. The application skill, or "technique", will get better as you go.

Good move on contacting Tamco. I expect that they'll be helpful (good companies want happy customers).

Keep a good attitude. You'll get there, and in the end you'll have a classic truck that's truly yours, one that's "built", not "bought". And with the cool family connection.

 

[rebuild83]

Check the manufacture temp rating for hardner and reducers to help control drying to fast or to slow