84 2.8 leaking from oil filter or somewhere near/around it. Oil filter has droplets of oil when the motor is off.

[MadMax_636]

Well, I checked what Ford manuals I have, and there's nothing specific on the R&R of the filter adapter for the 2.8L.

I don't know if you can clear the filter adapter's sole mounting bolt with the exhaust Y-pipe in place. On a 4.0, with the Y-pipe dropped changing these O-rings is easy; but believe me, I do know that dealing with old exhaust bolts can really suck a big one. The bolt is hollow, so go easy on it; its torque spec is listed as 15-30 ft-lbs.

Good luck!

1984 2.8L intro training manual:
View attachment 39990

And the 1984 Ranger and Bronco II shop manual:
View attachment 39991

Thanks for looking through your books to find this! It helps a lot!

It looks like Im gonna have to remove the pipe coming off the manifold to get to the bold. Im gonna have to wait to do this as Its supposed to rain today (At some point) and tomorrow.... So Hopefully I can get this job done quickly and painlessly. (Thats a small sliver of hope lol)

Im just hoping I dont run into any kind of crap along the way.

 

[RobbieD]

Thanks for looking through your books to find this! It helps a lot!

It looks like Im gonna have to remove the pipe coming off the manifold to get to the bold. Im gonna have to wait to do this as Its supposed to rain today (At some point) and tomorrow.... So Hopefully I can get this job done quickly and painlessly. (Thats a small sliver of hope lol)

Im just hoping I dont run into any kind of crap along the way.

I know that it's a rainy night in Georgia, but start hitting the exhaust bolts now with PB Blaster, Kroil, or your other favorite penetrating oil pretreatment. Good luck!

 

[MadMax_636]

Well, I checked what Ford manuals I have, and there's nothing specific on the R&R of the filter adapter for the 2.8L.

I don't know if you can clear the filter adapter's sole mounting bolt with the exhaust Y-pipe in place. On a 4.0, with the Y-pipe dropped changing these O-rings is easy; but believe me, I do know that dealing with old exhaust bolts can really suck a big one. The bolt is hollow, so go easy on it; its torque spec is listed as 15-30 ft-lbs.

Good luck!

1984 2.8L intro training manual:
View attachment 39990

And the 1984 Ranger and Bronco II shop manual:
View attachment 39991

Does it say what the torqe spec is for the adapter bolt as well as the size of socket needed?

 

[MadMax_636]

I know that it's a rainy night in Georgia, but start hitting the exhaust bolts now with PB Blaster, Kroil, or your other favorite penetrating oil pretreatment. Good luck!

I will! Hopefully that crap breaks loose easy then!

 

[RobbieD]

There is only one hollow bolt holding the adapter onto the block; that bolt is 15-30 ft-lbs. I "think" that it's 17mm (hex head). Otherwise, just note the mounting ear on the adapter; once the adapter's back on, and the bolt almost snug, rotate the adapter clockwise until the ear hits the tab on the block.

 

[franklin2]

With the Bronco II that has the 2.8 and the Ranger with the 2.9, I was able to take both of them out without messing with the exhaust pipes. That's a can of worms I would avoid unless you have had them off recently.

I remember I had little room, but was able to get it loose with the box end of a wrench. Once you get it loose, it will swivel around on the block and you have more swing for your wrench. Of course you have to take the oil filter off also.

I found I had to get the bolt fairly tight for it not to leak at the head of the bolt. You have a flat soft washer there, then a smaller o-ring in the middle around the bolt, and then the large o-ring from the adapter to the block.

 

[MadMax_636]

With the Bronco II that has the 2.8 and the Ranger with the 2.9, I was able to take both of them out without messing with the exhaust pipes. That's a can of worms I would avoid unless you have had them off recently.

I remember I had little room, but was able to get it loose with the box end of a wrench. Once you get it loose, it will swivel around on the block and you have more swing for your wrench. Of course you have to take the oil filter off also.

I found I had to get the bolt fairly tight for it not to leak at the head of the bolt. You have a flat soft washer there, then a smaller o-ring in the middle around the bolt, and then the large o-ring from the adapter to the block.

Thanks for chiming in dude! I was hoping you would since youve done it before! Well hopefully weather permits tomorrow. As its supposed to rain. I hope it doesnt rain all day so I can get this job done.

 

[RobbieD]

With the Bronco II that has the 2.8 and the Ranger with the 2.9, I was able to take both of them out without messing with the exhaust pipes. That's a can of worms I would avoid unless you have had them off recently.

I remember I had little room, but was able to get it loose with the box end of a wrench. Once you get it loose, it will swivel around on the block and you have more swing for your wrench. Of course you have to take the oil filter off also.

I found I had to get the bolt fairly tight for it not to leak at the head of the bolt. You have a flat soft washer there, then a smaller o-ring in the middle around the bolt, and then the large o-ring from the adapter to the block.

@franklin2 - Yes, thanks for adding your own hands-on experience on changing these oil filter adapter seals.

I'd never of heard of anybody actually pulling this off with the pipe in place, and it's good to know that it is possible.

When I did my 4.0L, it was during a clutch job when my Y-pipe was dropped anyway. If I had to do just adapter seals, I'd definitely at least try to work around the pipe first, but then again, I'd still have sprayed the exhaust hardware ahead of time "just in case" (because THAT's how my luck runs!).

@MadMax_636 - Be sure to clean the flat on the block, and the adapter piece as good as you can (easy, once it's off). Mine was pretty nasty and gritty, and the O-rings do need clean surfaces (including the groove in the adapter) to seal properly. Good luck!

 

[franklin2]

Maybe you have to take the pipe off on a 4.0?

I can verify, it's not much fun, and I have a lift to work under. It's one of those things were you have to move it a little bit, turn the wrench over and move it a little more. I think on the 2.9 to get it nice and tight I left the adapter a little bit out of plumb, so the oil filter was at a little bit of a angle when I was finished. Didn't seem to hurt anything.

 

[RobbieD]

Maybe you have to take the pipe off on a 4.0?

That may be true, as I think the exhaust pipes are a little bigger, but at least my 4.0L is done. When I did the clutch, it had a small leak at the filter adapter and just a little seep out of the rear main, so those got replaced while I was in there.

I also did an auto / manual conversion on my B2 right after I did the Explorer, but the seals on the 2.9L in it were dry as a bone, so I left it alone. On my '84 2.8L truck, I only rarely have to add oil to it, so it's not that bad.

 

[MadMax_636]

UPDATE: I jacked up the truck and put her on some stands. I found the bolt and tried my 17mm and it just wouldnt fit over it. So I went out and bought a 17 x 19mm among other sizes and the 19mm was way too big to even get into the crevice, I might got get a slimmer one as I got ratcheting set. So its gonna be a bit thicker but I only got it because its be easier on removing it. Plus, Having a set is nice.

Im wondering what size the bolt is.

 

[RobbieD]

Have you also tried what standard wrenches you have? I'm getting dangerous when working from memory, because of my advancing CRS.

 

[AndyB.]

I had to pull the manifold to replace this. There are three seals, a small o-ring that goes on the end of the bolt, a large o-ring that goes between the adapter and block, and a copper washer that goes between the head of the bolt and the adapter.

let me know if you need part numbers or torque specs.

 

[MadMax_636]

Have you also tried what standard wrenches you have? I'm getting dangerous when working from memory, because of my advancing CRS.

Ill see about buying a SAE kit as well. Since My stuff isn't really complete sadly. I also need some new stuff anyway.

 

[MadMax_636]

I had to pull the manifold to replace this. There are three seals, a small o-ring that goes on the end of the bolt, a large o-ring that goes between the adapter and block, and a copper washer that goes between the head of the bolt and the adapter.

let me know if you need part numbers or torque specs.

Damn, Thats what I was hoping I didn't have to do. Someone on here said they didn't have to removed the manifold or the pipe they just dealt with the small amount of space.

Since I dont really have the tools or equipment to pull the manifold.

Also, What this about the copper washer? Im assuming the original one is reusable right?