2001 Front Wheel Bearings?

[Byrd]

Ok, so... Here’s the deal.

My 01 4x4 Ranger developed a nice bearing sounding grind on the passenger side (Typical grinding when moving, changing pitch with speed and getting louder when I turn left and put the weight of the truck mainly on that wheel and faint when turning right, relieving that pressure).

That being said, also know that... I have not torn into this yet. (Waiting for the weekend) So my actual available info is limited to my diagnostics skills and shear presumption, for now.

Since I am 98% sure that it’s my wheel bearing, I'm wondering if there is a replacement for it that someone sells (I have access to a press, as well as a lift). I know about the live axle set-up, and that the bearing is pressed in, and looks like it could be sealed too, but like I said, I have not had it in my hands so I don't like assuming, hence my posting. Local Checker is listing a full hub replacement for a mere $321... I know from past experience that they list parts for full hub assy. replacement even if there are replacement bearings available--but must be pressed in.

In the even that I cannot get just the bearing, can anyone tell me where they have had the best luck getting replacement hub assemblies? Along with maybe a few part numbers and maybe even prices? I'd like to get everything that I could need to do the job and worry about returning stuff if I don't end up needing it after the truck is back together.

Last thing, all the CV boots are intact and look fine, so I am fairly certain that it’s not a CV joint that’s making the noise--Just to boil the possibilities down a little more.

Thanks to anyone who reads this beast, as well as anyone that can offer any comments, suggestions and/or advise.

-Byrd

TRS all day!

 

[camodown]

you have to buy the whole assembly for our trucks. Easy to switch out but they usually run 200 to 250 range. It is a good idea to get a quality wheel bearing and not go with the cheapest you find

 

[Byrd]

Well that really sucks... I guess now its just a matter of finding out who makes which hubs, which ones are better, and pricing them out.

Also, whats everyones' view on only changing one at a time? I have always said that if there is two on the truck you need to replace both at the same time... especially with rotating assemblies like hubs... but my best friend co-owns a driveline shop that specializes in custom hi-po drive shafts and transmissions says that its not a huge deal if you don't replace both as long as you go through the other one and ensure that it doesn't need replacement. Both concepts make since to me, but I still lean more towards replacing both sides at the same time. What do you guys think?

-Byrd

P.S. Anyone got anymore places, prices, or knowledge on who makes what brands and what brands are good/bad???

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

If it isn't broken, why replace it? Just replace the bad one.

 

[camodown]

If it isn't broken, why replace it? Just replace the bad one.

x2

 

[Byrd]

Well, got the hub replaced Saturday and the grinding is gone. However, there is still a slight noise that seems to be coming from that wheel still and the only thing that I can relate it to is a wheel bearing that is JUST starting to go out, a low hum? maybe?... anyways, as far as I know the only thing that touches the hub/knuckle assembly up front is the end of the CV shaft. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think that I am.

Secondly, the manual I have calls for the replacement of the CV nut? Has anyone heard of this? Is it really a necessity to put a brand new one on as long as it looks fine? If not, can someone please explain to me why. Let me know what you guys think. All my CV boots are intact and thats the only other thing that in my mind would make a noise like that and change tunes when your turning.... Thanks guys.


-Byrd

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

They pretty much recommend you replace any suspension nut or bolt after you remove it...does anyone do it? Nope.

Most of those bolts/nuts have a factory thread locker on them which is why you are to replace them. As long as the threads are good/clean you can apply some thread locker and torque it to spec and you're good to go!

 

[Byrd]

They pretty much recommend you replace any suspension nut or bolt after you remove it...does anyone do it? Nope.

Most of those bolts/nuts have a factory thread locker on them which is why you are to replace them. As long as the threads are good/clean you can apply some thread locker and torque it to spec and you're good to go!

Same as I have always been taught.

You think its possibly for the outer CV joint to be wearing/worn out on that side since the wheel bearing blew? I've been doing research all night and found out that the inner CV joint can be serviced to a certain extent but the outer CV joint is somewhat enclosed and not serviceable other than being able to re grease it and replace the CV boot. Seeing the way that that outer CV joint is made really makes me wonder if thats not whats making the same bearing noise. The only thing that doesn't make since is that none of my boots show any sign of wear or tear or leaks or anything... Truck has 89k on it.... only 4k of which are mine. Which puts me back into that nice stage of givadamn that makes we think I should take it a part.

What do yall think?

-Byrd

 

[feellnfroggy]

CV joints normally make a clicking not a humming or grinding, However it could be coming from where the CV axle mates into the differential, or mildly poss that your tire is worn uneven due to the bearing wear. But then again, its been years since I messed with anything CV related.

 

[Byrd]

CV joints normally make a clicking not a humming or grinding, However it could be coming from where the CV axle mates into the differential, or mildly poss that your tire is worn uneven due to the bearing wear. But then again, its been years since I messed with anything CV related.

Yeah, thats what I have always come across with CV shafts and joints too.

One of my rotors is surging/pulsing so im going to rip them off and turn them on saturday, only been once, but I had a rotor on my 93 F150 that had me replacing wheel bearings and even a spindle before I finally had to do my breaks and the same noise went away. So i figure, even if the sound doesn't get eliminated, at least my breaking will improve and I can check one more thing off the list of things to do...

Anyone else ever had a rotor make you think it was wheel bearings?


-Byrd