2.5L ('98-'01) 2001 2.5L 4CYL. Coolant Flush

[-Nate]

Okay guys, I just spent an hour reading 2.5L coolant threads, what I'd like to know are the basics : where is the coolant drain plug, the block drain plug and how to drain the heater core ? .

Pictures will be best, I'm an old geezer and don't ken moderns too well .

Also, I recently replaced the N02 sensor and cleaned the MAF sensor near the air filter using the specific aerosol MAF sensor cleaner, my fuel economy is down to 16MPG and at $5.00 + the gallon here in So. California I need to maybe find and clean the coolant temperature sensor, I'm assuming it has one .

FWIW, this truck only has 149,000 miles on it and runs like a top (stick shift, 5 speed)

So far every time I asked a question I get the right dope fast from those who know .

Getting ready to head out across the Mojave Desert again, this time taking my Sweet so i don't want any problems .

TIA,

 

[franklin2]

So you just want to flush the system? I just take the lower radiator hose off, take one of the heater core hoses off, and hook a garden hose directly to the heater core hose. That runs the water through the heater core, through the block and out the lower radiator hose. You can then put the garden hose in the top of the radiator and before you put the lower hose back on, run water through the radiator.

One of those slender brass garden hose sprayer ends works well and you can force it up in the heater hose end.

 

[-Nate]

Thank you, yes that's what I wanted to do .

The current coolant I'd neglected to change for five years or so and it had turned brown so a regular flush wasn't going to be sufficient, I wanted to do a chemical flush, got a quart bottle of Prestone flush and drained the nasty coolant (I hope to post pictures when my cell phone gets repaired) and re filled it with distilled water and the Prestone flushing agent and hit the highway .

A bit over an hour later I pulled over and drained the now nasty looking and cloudy distilled water, refilled it with distilled water mixed with some baking soda to neutralize the water jacket and headed home again .

When I reached home the water was cloudy yet again so I gave it one last flush with distilled water then filled it with a 50/50 mix of Prestone and distilled water .

Where I live has terrible hard water so the garden hose is right out .

It's seeming to run fine now at the same temperature it always has and no leaks .

I'm going to try and find the Motocraft catalog online and look up the correct radiator cap this is the original 23 year old one that's not holding pressure well .

 

[franklin2]

I had to do the same as you, my radiator would not even drain the coolant it was so full of rust sediment. I messed with it for awhile, then did the same as you, fill it with water, drove, drained refilled with water till I got it all out. Then I thought I was good........wrong. I had a couple of freeze plugs that started to leak. Pulled them out and they were paper thin and rusted through.

I then tried the rubber plugs, but could not get them to stay in. I finally had to pull the engine to replace all the freeze plugs and I am glad I did. The 2.9 I was working on had a freeze plug behind the bellhousing. And it was starting to seep.

 

[-Nate]

Always something the D.P.O. or D.P.M. left that needs fixing .

To day was the front wheel bearing service, the driver's side was set to zero clearance, not good .

The passenger side appears to have some wear, I cleaned and re packed it with short fiber molybdenum based grease as I'm headed way across the Desert tomorrow, I'll prolly replace the outer bearing and brake pads in a week or three .

Always something to do, I managed to blow out a Bilstien HD gas shock on the right front (I know, how the heck did I do that ?), replaced it and noticed the sway bar link bushings are bad, not sure if I should get Polyurethane or stock rubber.......? .

 

[-Nate]

THANK YOU MODERATOR .

I have the devil of a time figuring out where to post my questions .

 

[-Nate]

Okay, update .

Everything seems fine, the gauge reads normal and no leaks, no needing to top up the coolant .

I was able to find a N.O.S. Motocraft radiator cap .

This is the stuff I used to clean it :

Most folks don't leave the flushing agent in long enough, I drove it close to an hour on the freeway before dumping it out again .

Here's what came out :

I hope all is well now, in doing another job I discovered the clear plastic vacuum pipe leading to the hot water valve was mis routed too close to the exhaust manifold and had crumbled allowing a vacuum leak . fixed that too .

 

[DandysRanger]

I have a 65 Mustang with a 5.0L. when I first got it, I fought rusty coolant for years. I drained and refilled, flushed with "cleaner" and even went to a shop where they did a complete running flush with new coolant. The rust always came back. I tried this Mercedes citrus flush and that wiped out the rust for good. Highly recommended.

 

[-Nate]

Oh yes ~ the Citric Acid flush will do the job but the real thing is the amount of TIME you drive it for with the flushing agent in the cooling system .

The rust and solder bloom didn't appear overnight so why does everyone expect it do be easily removed in a 15 minute flush ? .