2000 Ranger 5.0 V8 stalled - please help

[Rangstang]

Had a bunch of Mustangs come my way this last week that I have to process (strip down) and a few other projects to wrap up before I can get back to this one. It'll probably be mid-February before I have any updates. I will post my findings at that point.

Thanks!

 

[Rangstang]

Have some stuff to finish up on my son's 3.0L Ranger today and then hopefully I'm on it this afternoon with updates tonight. Thanks for all your help!

 

[Rangstang]

Finally got back to the Ranger this morning... Got held up due to issues on the 2003 Ranger that I recently bought for my son.

1. Installed plugs for #5 and #6 as they were out all this last month and performed the Clear Flooded Engine procedure you recommended with the coil packs unplugged. Plugs were very wet post test.
2. Dried out plugs with a blow nozzle, put a lighter to them and wiped them off really good for #5 and #6. Then turned the engine over with no plugs and the gas pedal to the floor to dry the cylinders. I then installed the plugs and performed the Clear Flooded Engine procedure a second time with the coil packs unplugged. Plugs were very wet.
3. Removed the connector from #5 injector. Dried out plugs with a blow nozzle, put a lighter to them and wiped them off really good. Turned the engine over with no plugs and the gas pedal to the floor to dry the cylinders. I then installed the plugs and performed the Clear Flooded Engine procedure with the coil packs unplugged. Plug #5 was moist, but not really wet. Don't know for sure if it was residual fuel in the cylinder or intake or if it was still leaking past the nozzle of the injector.
4. Checked voltages on the injector connector of #5 with the KOEO and found that I had both +12V and GND at the connector. This is not at all what I had expected as I figured that might possibly flood the engine before starting. I then checked #2 injector and found the voltages to be the same, so this must be the way of priming the engine and then as soon as the engine is turned over, it switches to signal from the Cam Pos Sensor?
5. Connected the coil packs, snugged the plugs and connected the plug wires. Removed the intake hose from the TB and tried turning it over with the gas pedal to the floor. It initially backfired and then nothing. I sprayed some starting fluid in the TB and repeated the process. Nothing significant. Repeated this 2-3 times, with no change.
6. Removed the fuel pump relay and sprayed starting fluid in the TB. One time it fired a little bit and then nothing from that point on.

Anyway, I don't feel like I've really learned anything at this point. Hopefully you guys have some suggestions.

 

[chvlfrk]

????

Have you tried swappin coil packs since this seems to be a firin issue?

Didn't see that you had tried any of that unless I missed it.

 

[Rangstang]

Have you tried swappin coil packs since this seems to be a firin issue?

Didn't see that you had tried any of that unless I missed it.

Actually, I did swap out the driver coil pack early on (it is listed on my initial post) with a Motorcraft pack that I had in storage. The driver pack has both #5 and #6 in it, so it seemed logical.

I'm really kind of stumped at this point. I may just shotgun it, but not before I can get a compression test done... just in case. Thing's been sitting for 5 weeks now.

 

[chvlfrk]

My 2000 Ranger 2WD with 5.0L Explorer motor stalled when my wife was driving home. Turns over fine, but sounds like it isn’t firing. Could smell gas, so I decided to check timing. Timing light indicated that the cam position sensor was functioning and hadn’t slipped, as well as the timing chain didn’t skip.

Put a timing light on each plug wire and found 6 out of 8 with signal. Two plug wires on the driver coil pack were not triggering the light. Swapped out the coil pack, no change. Swapped out the computer, no change. Removed all plugs and found that cylinders 5 and 6 were gas fouled. Cylinder 5 very minor and cylinder 6 really really wet. Cleaned both plugs and reinstalled. Still wouldn’t fire. Figured even if the cylinder 6 injector were stuck open, the truck would probably still run.

Checked fuel pressure with a gauge, but couldn’t get a good seal around the schraeder valve. By just turning the key, the gauge approached 50PSI and leaked out around the fitting quickly. Appears that the fuel pressure is sufficient to fire.

Removed the fuel pump relay and turned over truck for 5 seconds and it seemed to fire a bit (trying to clean the plugs and dry the cylinders). Reinstalled the relay and tried to start again, no change.

Any help is much appreciated.

Swapped out the computer, no change.

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I missed this ^^^^ the first time along with the coil pack swap.

KOI, but did you reprogram the keys to the NEW computer? If you swapped ECU's then the keys have to be programmed to the new one. Ran into that before.

 

[Rangstang]

====================
KOI, but did you reprogram the keys to the NEW computer? If you swapped ECU's then the keys have to be programmed to the new one. Ran into that before.

I should've noted that the PATs was removed from both PCMs prior to this issue and both PCMs had been run on the truck for weeks prior to this issue.

 

[chvlfrk]

>>>>>>>>>>

I should've noted that the PATs was removed from both PCMs prior to this issue and both PCMs had been run on the truck for weeks prior to this issue.

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Well dang it, thought I had ya fixed!

 

[Rangstang]

Yes, I have a 2001 Explorer 5.0 and ECM in a 1999 Ranger. Yes, I have had both ACT and ECT codes (both codes can cause difficult starting issues) and have had both sensors fail. When they do fail is feels as though the vehicle has no spark or no fuel, just a very hollow cranking with no signs of firing off.

I swapped out the ECT sensor today and had planned on replacing the ACT sensor as suggested, but my intake air hose is from a 99-01 Explorer which from what I can see, there isn't one in it. Even though just about everyone shows one. I've since read online that the ACT is integrated into the MAF. That makes a quick swap cost prohibitive.

I will note that when I initially turned it over this morning as well as other times where it sat for days between starts, it fires initially and almost starts and then back to the hollow cranking.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Rangstang]

Added "UPDATES" section to initial post on the first page so there's no need to read through the whole thing, in hopes that I will get more feedback.