2000 ford ranger base model manual transmission. brake lines

[need info]

Hello, I am replacing a section of the brake line's original equipment. It goes from near the driver's seat to the back rubber hose block. the line is 3/16 inch and the line up near the seat is a bubble flare and the back block at the rubber hose is an inverted flare. Can someone tell me what size threads each are? I am not sure if the 3/16 inch lines at the auto store are the same threads. would each end have the same size threads even though one is a bubble flare and the other end is an inverted flare? The old parts seem to be the same size as the store lines but the old line is not screwing into the new parts very well. I have not forced it. I am not sure if somewhere down in time if the threads were changed. I don't want to strip what is good on the truck.
I am having trouble finding parts without flaring the tube myself. I really don't want to get into that. Thanks for any specs if possible.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I'm pretty sure the fitting on the RABS unit is a bastard size. I've done several trucks and I have always reused that fitting. However... I'm OK with flaring brake lines. It's pretty simple and is a skill you should pick up. Tools are reasonable too. Hopefully you didn't throw that portion of line and fitting away...

It's tough to piece those lines together using what available from the parts store. Good luck.

 

[Josh B]

For sure ^^ Get the flare set and dig in man.

 

[scotts90ranger]

It's probably 10mm fine thread instead of the 3/8" fine thread on the generic lines at the parts stores, like said above probably easiest to just cut off the factory ends and flare the new tubing around the nuts...

 

[need info]

It's probably 10mm fine thread instead of the 3/8" fine thread on the generic lines at the parts stores, like said above probably easiest to just cut off the factory ends and flare the new tubing around the nuts...

I see, now it makes sense. I can get a bubble flare line and cut just one end off and slip on the new ends, and use the tool for an inverted flare on the cut end. My hunch was correct the threads are slightly different. I know enough not to force anything. I will buy the new ends and check if they screw into the existing female threads on the truck first. Thanks for all the replies.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Remember also... unions are OK to use to connect two lines together. Compression fittings are not.

 

[need info]

Remember also... unions are OK to use to connect two lines together. Compression fittings are not.

got it!

 

[need info]

For those who have an interest in the solution:
This comment is long but it was necessary for me to determine. If not I would have stripped the rear block and it would have cost me a lot of time and money to replace parts in the rear of my truck.
Well, I had a problem but I was able to take my time and figure it out. I used a micrometer to measure the original fittings in diameter. The 10 ml fine thread fittings measure about .39 inches. from outside thread to outside thread diameter. The 3/8-24 measure a little less about . 375-inch outside thread to outside thread. I compared these measurements to the new fittings and it was very close in measurements.
The problem is at the store they screwed the originals into their test pieces. Both will screw into a 10ml female. everyone assumed they both were 10ml. The problem is a 3/8-24 will screw into a metric female so it is ambiguous. I had to use a jeweler's loupe and look closely at the threads. The original front fitting was finer threads than the rear block fittings. You have to use a strong magnifying instrument to see that. Therefore the front was 10ml fine threads and the rear was 3/8 -24 threads on the original equipment.
What fooled everyone was the rear fitting was a bit aged and oversized hair so at the store it would not screw into the 3/8 test female but it did screw into the 10 ml female.
It ends up that a 3/8 new fitting will screw into a 10ml but a new 10ml fitting does not screw into a 3/8 female. The 10 ml is .02 inches bigger than the 3/8 inch.
Conclusion: The original rear 3/8-24 was difficult to take out and it would not screw back in. It was tight. I took a hax saw and cut 4 kerfs into the original fitting and cleaned out the original female by screwing in and out a few times with oil. It acted as a tap. the new 3/8 fitting on the new line was screwed in by hand and tightened with a wrench.
It was a big pain but it's completed and I did not strip any parts. I had purchased a mess load of parts and I had both US and metric parts to go either way. Advance Auto gives you a flaring tool for free with a returnable security deposit.
I never thought I had to use a micrometer and a jeweler's loupe to figure this out but it was the only way.
thanks again because at the start I didn't know what to do. For the record, the last time I used a flaring tool for brake lines was about 45 years ago.

 

[pjtoledo]

sometime in the next 45 years you should get a set of thread gauges. no need for the loupes then.
both metric and SAE are available.

IRWIN 18 Leaf Thread -Gauge in the Standard (SAE) Thread Gauges department at Lowes.com

 

[need info]

sometime in the next 45 years you should get a set of thread gauges. no need for the loupes then.
both metric and SAE are available.

IRWIN 18 Leaf Thread -Gauge in the Standard (SAE) Thread Gauges department at Lowes.com

Lol, I should have thought of that! Now that you mention it. I remember seeing those once. Since I have gone through all this, I think they are very necessary. I would still need good cheaters! Those are some fine threads.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Glad you got it solved. I’ve re-used original fittings and I’ve bought adapter fittings and stuff. Anymore, the first time I have to mess with brake lines on a vehicle these days I tear out all the lines and replace everything with copper/nickel line. Brass or stainless fittings if I can get my hands on the correct fittings. Flare my own. Autozone also loans tools. I have a few of the loaner tools that I never took back. Or rather take them back when they are broke for an exchange. I have a lever style flaring tool now, I can make standard double flares, metric bubble flares, AN 37* flares and more. Well worth the like $300 I spent on it.

BTW, I’m moving this to the brakes section where it belongs…

 

[need info]

Glad you got it solved. I’ve re-used original fittings and I’ve bought adapter fittings and stuff. Anymore, the first time I have to mess with brake lines on a vehicle these days I tear out all the lines and replace everything with copper/nickel line. Brass or stainless fittings if I can get my hands on the correct fittings. Flare my own. Autozone also loans tools. I have a few of the loaner tools that I never took back. Or rather take them back when they are broke for an exchange. I have a lever style flaring tool now, I can make standard double flares, metric bubble flares, AN 37* flares and more. Well worth the like $300 I spent on it.

BTW, I’m moving this to the brakes section where it belongs…

thanks for the feedback and info. I think I will eventually replace all my lines with rotors and rear cylinders too. All the tips from everyone help a lot. I have a 2000 Ranger so everything is getting worn. I didn't realize that there is a brake section. Thanks for moving it over.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

thanks for the feedback and info. I think I will eventually replace all my lines with rotors and rear cylinders too. All the tips from everyone help a lot. I have a 2000 Ranger so everything is getting worn. I didn't realize that there is a brake section. Thanks for moving it over.

I dunno where you live, but I’m in the heart of the rust belt so I quickly tired of replacing a steel brake line practically every year if not more than once a year since I have a few vehicles to care for. I’m not a fan of repetition when there’s other things I can spend my time on. When I found there were options for brake lines (and other metal lines) on a vehicle that don’t rot out, well, that’s money right there. One less thing to worry about. I have coils of copper/nickel and aluminum line on hand all the time now. Found stainless line, although very nice, is a bit harder to work with. I’ve done fuel lines, transmission lines, and EVAP lines in aluminum and braided PTFE -AN stuff. Also did that for coolant lines on my green Ranger because the 5.0 has some goofy metal lines for it. Anything to make my life easier with this old iron.

No worries on moving it, this is a pretty good sized forum and we try to keep it somewhat organized. When you’ve been around here as long as me (the date by my name isn’t accurate, it’s been since like 2001/2002), you’ll know the forum, lol

 

[need info]

I dunno where you live, but I’m in the heart of the rust belt so I quickly tired of replacing a steel brake line practically every year if not more than once a year since I have a few vehicles to care for. I’m not a fan of repetition when there’s other things I can spend my time on. When I found there were options for brake lines (and other metal lines) on a vehicle that don’t rot out, well, that’s money right there. One less thing to worry about. I have coils of copper/nickel and aluminum line on hand all the time now. Found stainless line, although very nice, is a bit harder to work with. I’ve done fuel lines, transmission lines, and EVAP lines in aluminum and braided PTFE -AN stuff. Also did that for coolant lines on my green Ranger because the 5.0 has some goofy metal lines for it. Anything to make my life easier with this old iron.

No worries on moving it, this is a pretty good sized forum and we try to keep it somewhat organized. When you’ve been around here as long as me (the date by my name isn’t accurate, it’s been since like 2001/2002), you’ll know the forum, lol

I'm in the salt city part of the country also. I use to drive full-size vans and the front brake lines would not last more than a couple of years. The oil rust stop treatments help but what a mess when there is work to do. I am thinking about getting a Jasper engine for the 2000 Ranger eventually, but I have to pay for that to be installed.
I have been using this forum for information for about 7 years now. It has made my life much easier. thanks to all.