2.8 Options Other then Duraspark Conversion?

[Bryanrz]

Recently I took over my grandpas old 1985 Ford ranger 2.8 with feedback 93K original miles. It is all stock and really hasn't been used much since 1999 and hasn't been used at all in the last 10 years. I got it home and restored or replaced the entire fuel system including rebuilding the carb. Everything looks good except it does not drive well. It will start and idle good and will drive if I have the pedal to the floor ( assuming some open loop mode?) If I just try to give a little throttle it will bog and die. Things seem to get better when I unplug the air meter on the back of the carb but still not drivable.

I was gearing up for a duraspark conversion ( and still might) but here in Arizona unless insured as an antique I still have to pass emissions. So I was wondering if there are options to keep emissions compliant?

 

[franklin2]

Legally you have to keep it just as it is. But we all know that is near impossible, some of the emissions pieces to fit that setup are no longer available.

What would a emissions test involve where you live? Will they hook a code reader to it? Will they hook a sniffer to the exhaust pipe? Will they look under the hood? If they hook a code reader to it you are pretty much stuck, unless you want to swap in a later model engine and all the wiring and computer. I think they will allow you to go ahead in years, not back though.

If you do the dist and carb swap, and keep the cat, I would think you could tune it good enough to pass a sniffer test. And as long as you keep the original aircleaner on it and the smog pump, I do not think they would notice the other changes.

 

[Bryanrz]

You do agree that it sounds like the conversion would be the answer to my problems?

Its a sniff test, cat check, and under hook inspection. I used to think the under hood inspection was 30 seconds quick glance however I ran my 1985 Toyota through emissions this last Friday and they spent some decent time under the hood. I think it might of been a new guy but who knows. I can also just insure it as antique and it becomes emissions exempt however that comes with restrictions of its own ( covered parking, mileage limits, special insurance)

Is the Bronco Corral writeup the best guide to follow?

Ford 2.8L Duraspark Ignition Conversion - Bronco Corral

The Ford 2.8 carbureted V6, used in 1984-1985 Bronco II's, had a problematic TFI ignition. Here's how to swap it for a Duraspark ignition.

www.broncocorral.com

 

[AndyB.]

I’m running all original equipment on mine—and it runs great.

I’d get a vacuum pump and start testing accessories for a leak (EGR valve, temperature compensated accelerator pump, carb pre-heat divertor. Then start checking the vacuum lines off the vacuum some kids and the vacuum reservoir for leaks.

If it’s reasonably intact, there’s no need to go to a duraspark conversion. I view a duraspark setup as a last ditch approach to get it running if too much of the original fuel management system had been removed to make repairing it practical.

 

[franklin2]

You do agree that it sounds like the conversion would be the answer to my problems?

Its a sniff test, cat check, and under hook inspection. I used to think the under hood inspection was 30 seconds quick glance however I ran my 1985 Toyota through emissions this last Friday and they spent some decent time under the hood. I think it might of been a new guy but who knows. I can also just insure it as antique and it becomes emissions exempt however that comes with restrictions of its own ( covered parking, mileage limits, special insurance)

Is the Bronco Corral writeup the best guide to follow?

Ford 2.8L Duraspark Ignition Conversion - Bronco Corral

The Ford 2.8 carbureted V6, used in 1984-1985 Bronco II's, had a problematic TFI ignition. Here's how to swap it for a Duraspark ignition.

www.broncocorral.com

Swapping the ignition system out and also getting a new regular carb would probably fix it. But it sounds like you would be hard pressed to pass the visual. If you want to keep what you have, it sounds like you still have carb problems.

When you get down to it, the carb is still a carb and the ignition still does it main job also. The computer just trims the fuel and sets the idle speed, and adjusts the ignition timing. But it can go haywire sometimes. My original system ran good, except it would take a fit sometimes and I would get a very high idle. I did a bunch of troubleshooting and found out the computer for some reason would advance the timing way up at idle, and that would raise the idle speed way up. I never could figure out why it would be doing that, so I did the conversion and it runs so much better. And it cleaned the underhood area up tremendously. But unless you put antique tags on it, I doubt you could get away with it.

 

[Bryanrz]

I’m running all original equipment on mine—and it runs great.

I’d get a vacuum pump and start testing accessories for a leak (EGR valve, temperature compensated accelerator pump, carb pre-heat divertor. Then start checking the vacuum lines off the vacuum some kids and the vacuum reservoir for leaks.

If it’s reasonably intact, there’s no need to go to a duraspark conversion. I view a duraspark setup as a last ditch approach to get it running if too much of the original fuel management system had been removed to make repairing it practical.

Is there a good diagnostic book for these motors? I purchase the FSM and one of the cheaper 3rd party manuals and am kind of surprised there is not more information. Like ohm testing electronic devices. I have a vacuum pump and can start to mess around under the hood but there are a ton of vacuum lines on that passenger side fender.

 

[Bryanrz]

It’s all there I believe, a little evidence of someone possibly in the wire harness before mostly just a little dusty from sitting in the Arizona desert in a carport for 20 years.

 

[RobbieD]

Is there a good diagnostic book for these motors? I purchase the FSM and one of the cheaper 3rd party manuals and am kind of surprised there is not more information. Like ohm testing electronic devices. I have a vacuum pump and can start to mess around under the hood but there are a ton of vacuum lines on that passenger side fender.

If you are going to try and live with the original 2.8 factory system, find this book:

It's the Ford training manual for the dealership mechanics. It's the Bible for a non-Duraspark 2.8. It's specific for what your truck has, and explains how everything works, and how to diagnose the system.

Watch eBay; they're not common, but they do pop up occasionally.

It'll be well worth the investment.

 

[Bryanrz]

If you are going to try and live with the original 2.8 factory system, find this book:

View attachment 94638

It's the Ford training manual for the dealership mechanics. It's the Bible for a non-Duraspark 2.8. It's specific for what your truck has, and explains how everything works, and how to diagnose the system.

Watch eBay; they're not common, but they do pop up occasionally.

It'll be well worth the investment.

Good information. Do I have to find a 1985 one or will other years work?

 

[RobbieD]

I've never seen one for the '85 model. 1985 was the last year for the 2.8 in the Ranger, and the only difference that I'm aware of is in the auto trucks the EEC added controlling the transmission shift solenoids.

 

[Bryanrz]

Okay sounds good. eBay had the one you had pictured for $25 so I got that ordered.

 

[RobbieD]

Okay sounds good. eBay had the one you had pictured for $25 so I got that ordered.

Good move!

And, Good Luck on getting yours right.

 

[AndyB.]

This book has workflows and details for testing the electronic engine controls.

 

[franklin2]

I can tell you, when looking for trouble always be suspicious of all the wiring plugs over on the driver's side inner fender. I have had two of these vehicles now, and both of them threw salt and water on those connectors and the coil when you turn to the left. I had to put rubber over there to shield it to keep it from happening. If you pull the plugs apart you may find corroded connectors and wires over there.

 

[UofMfanJJ]

Recently I took over my grandpas old 1985 Ford ranger 2.8 with feedback 93K original miles. It is all stock and really hasn't been used much since 1999 and hasn't been used at all in the last 10 years. I got it home and restored or replaced the entire fuel system including rebuilding the carb. Everything looks good except it does not drive well. It will start and idle good and will drive if I have the pedal to the floor ( assuming some open loop mode?) If I just try to give a little throttle it will bog and die. Things seem to get better when I unplug the air meter on the back of the carb but still not drivable.

I was gearing up for a duraspark conversion ( and still might) but here in Arizona unless insured as an antique I still have to pass emissions. So I was wondering if there are options to keep emissions compliant?

move to Michigan and go TBI lol.