2.8 blues in a very nice Ranger

[cckc135r]

Okay, so here's the scoop folks. I just picked up an 85 4x4 Ranger XL for $250.00. It's got the 1350 t-case and manual hubs a 5 speed ps cruise pb air and is rust free. Previous owner (PO) said it wouldn't run. I got it to fire and run tonight by checking grounds and cleaning some connectors and it fired right up and ran very smooth.....forgot to mention that I also got the paperwork for a rebuilt engine that's in it as well. Motor has roughly 5 to 6000 miles on it. It was only driven to work and back 4 to 5 miles a day for the last 2 yrs. The PO also said that it had a small coolant leak so tonight I saw where it is going....out the tail pipe as steam. The oil was very dirty but no water in it. Anyway, so I'm thinking head gaskets. I've rebuild a 2.9 before and know they have heads bolts that have to replaced after each use....are 2.8's the same way? Are there any suggestions that any of you guys have before I tear into this thing? Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated.....this Ranger is a DD so a V8 swap is not an option for me. I'm thinking a head gasket set and have the heads checked for cracks and straightness and mill if needed. Any other suggestions are welcomed. Thanks in advance.

 

[Big Jim M]

CCk I need to caution you about the steam out the pipe! I'll betcha that is condensation and not coolant. It's real hard for coolant to get into the tail pipe without compression getting into the radiator.
Why don't you make sure the coolant system is full and run her for an hour or so while watching closely to make sure just where you might have an external leak..
Forget about head gaskets till you know for sure and certain what you have going on..
Big JIm

 

[Original_Ranger84]

I agree with Big Jim, the white smoke is common on vehicles especially since its cold or cool..

Plus if its a reman motor you can bet the seals are probably fine and the gaskets and stuff, if anything I bet its a leak around the heater core or radiator or hose that were more then likely not replaced while the motor was replaced.

 

[budro]

on my 85 it had 3 coolant hoses an upper and lower then one that was a bypass i believe from the water pump to the thermostat housing or intake. Dont forget about it.

 

[Hotrodlincoln]

Do a block test before tearing into the engine to replace head gaskets. Steam/condensation in the exhaust is a NORMAL byproduct of combustion, and is no indicator of internal damage or gasket failure.

 

[cckc135r]

All, thanks for the inputs and keep them coming. Ok, so here is what I have found out so far. The oil dipstick is very rusty which I can understand due to the previous owners very short trips not allowing the engine to completely warm up. I also checked the coolant level and it is low. I went to drain the very nasty looking coolant and the radiator drain cock is clogged. Upon pulling the drain cock out still no coolant flowed from it and the valve has what looks like build up on it. I will try to get pictures of it to get another opinion from you guys. I'm also going to run a compression check as well to see what that tells me.

On another note the truck does run very smoothly and idles very nice. The AC works very well too so I'm pretty stoked about this new hotrod. Also, do any of you know if the 2.8 head bolts are the torque to yeild bolts/one time use like the 2.9?

I will also try to get pictures of the truck for you all to have a look at. Of course it's an 85 so the paint is faded but mechanically the truck so far seems to be in really good repair. I will also post up what the compression check reveals about the engine.

Again to all, thanks for the inputs and keep them coming.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I dont think the head bolts need to be changed if you pull the heads but as above that would be a last resort especially since the engine is so new. Has the engine overheated since the rebuild I would change the oil and filter (motorcraft filter) and use 5w30 synthetic top the water off and take it for a road trip and regular bleach is a good coolant flush pull the lower radiator hose and drain the coolant then run some bleach thru it to hopefully open up the radiator passages and possibly show you where the leak is. just get it hot then flush it good with fresh water. Dont panic on the engine do a compression and leakdow test on the cylinders keep an eye on the oil and coolant it just sounds like it has been neglected. A vacuum test and compression will tell you the overall health of the engine and if you dont need an emissions test do your engine a favor and eliminate the feedback carb and duraspark it while it is still young. You might be lucky and have the emissions still working properly but run the codes anyway. All the info you will ever need is in the tech library since I did the valveguide seals and duraspark conversion on my 2.8 it still holds oil and I no longer get the snot on the dipstick ever since I went to 5w30 synthetic with a motorcraft filter.

 

[Original_Ranger84]

I would recommend changing the head bolts if you do though, I mean you probably don't need to but its cheap insurance... Never skimp on a repair EVER.

 

[dangerranger83]

Seeing that it runs smooth, drives smooth, etc... I would keep the factory carb and emission set-up it has, no need to fix or replace whats not broken.

As for the smoke, my dads does the same, looks white but if you look closly it has blue tint in it. His engine was put in 6,000 miles ago and it was a 27,000 milres on a rebuild but it had sat for 4 years before it was put in his truck and started. His smoked a bit at first but it went away. More or less his valve glides are starting to go on him. It onloy does it when you push on the skinny pedal to make the engine do sudden high rpms.

Fix what you know needs fixed and go from there, no need to go further then needed and end up spending money when you didnt need to.

 

[gcfishguy]

Usually if there's water getting into the combustion chamber, you can see it on the plugs. Quick and easy way to check, pull the plugs and look for one (or two side by side) that are free of carbon. Usually they'll be washed clean and actually be shiny.

 

[fastpakr]

2.8 head bolts are not Torque-to-yield, they do not need to be replaced.

 

[cckc135r]

Good stuff guys. I have good ammo and a few different ways to attack this thing. I'll report back with may findings. The only thing that worries me is the possible presence of oil at the radiator drain cock. Not much time to work on it tonight so hopefully later in the week. However the plugs on the driver side. Look really good.

 

[cckc135r]

Okay, pulled the passenger side spark plugs out and they look as good as the driver side do. Also had a friend come over and have a look at the mung that is in the radiator and it needs a good flush and fill and we're back on the road. Started it again and ran smooth with great oil pressure as well. I'm going to take the radiator from my B2 among other things and switch them over and part the B2. Thanks for all the help guys it's greatly appreciated and best of all I got the truck for $250.00. I almost feel bad...until I hit the key.