Hello as this is my first qs on here and how cool. Thanks for the quick response. Names Mike Hayes 25 DIY CAR enthusiast! Lemme give you an understanding with my problem and diagnosis so i think. I reside in SB,Ca i own 94 Ranger XL 2.3L RWD 5spd (SOHC) Vin A. Miles 95,000 miles as far as i know, it was my fathers. Two weeks ago or so time for smog and failed due to LOW/HIGH RPM change at idle ill attach test results. 2500 rpm results pass. idle rpm@832 failed %Co2 meas-13.4 %o2 meas-2.0 HC (PPM) max 100 meas-232.
Where it begins pcv replaced & inspected/clean everything with it , egr solenoid replaced, Cleaned air intake housing and tube to throttle body. Inspected plugs wires exhaust manifold inspected by removing and inspected for cracks, New O2 sensor as which it was the original one, exhaust inspection flanges and all. manifold to cat bolts were slightly loose when removing so was sure to tighten to specs when putting back on. (One place to check) After all this i start it up let warm up of course, and of course the new problem occurs with slight gas acceleration in low gears hesitation screech even backfires. Even shut off once or twice. Bummin i tell you. I move over to throttle body first cleaned my iac, my egr vacuum bolt is rounded and not yet able to remove and inspect. Took a trip to the yard, throttle body, egr solenoid, TPS, throttle cable, vacuum hoses. Now to my belief where my problem for the pedal/hesitation misfire problem was occurring from #3 (Front view) Right Side under the intake manifold, the injector connector had a section through its tubing while rested up against the intake manifold melted through and shorted the wire or major resistance was the culprit. I was relieved and glad i took the time to inspect such area that’s over looked. Highly recommend taking a look mate! I also replaced my plugs AL (AP104) with Autolite Double platinum APP104. They run for about 5each and i have the double ignition coil system 2 per cylinder so yea but worth it. I have resolved my issue with that. MY truck now will not idle correctly. Took a jump wire and drained Capacitors, as should whenever throttle body is disconnected. Starts with no problem. When acc pedal push down to the floor (hold down) and go to start it doesn’t start which tells me my injectors and computer system is OK. I may have knocked the screw on the throttle body? Idk But it idle so high when try to adjust back to idle it sputs air now has become a problem. OBD1 is a pain plugged in my eec-iv (koeo) code 159 MaF sensor fault above or below normal.?? Any ideas, thoughts, mentions for me would be great. If i can help you more understand anything I’ve put out here, please do so. All in all if nothing here’s works for smog cat it’ll be. Mikeosaji if read i hope something of this helps you. -Mike H