1990 2wd, V8 swap and I want to lower it questions

[Redleg68]

My truck has a utility body and I have never seen one before. It begs to be dropped, but I've always lifted, never lowered.

So, drop beams, axle flip....
what springs in the front? (V8)

Thinking 16" rims, so what width and spacing?
What tire size?
I've got an old school 'shop truck' pictured in my mind, just not sure of the best way to drop it correctly

 

[slammedxonair]

Beams and flip kit would set you at a 4/5 drop. Usually the best way to get started.

 

[Ranger850]

Explorer Rear end has the springs under the axle. automatic 3-4 inches just with the swap. Most people who use the expo rear have to cut and weld new spring perches for lift, but no if you WANT to go lower, straight swap.

Just get a V8 explorer and use everything you can

 

[Blmpkn]

Do this.

Update us.

Hell yeah.

 

[Redleg68]

Beams and flip kit would set you at a 4/5 drop. Usually the best way to get started.

Yes, but with it having a V8, are specific coils and shocks needed?

 

[Redleg68]

Explorer Rear end has the springs under the axle. automatic 3-4 inches just with the swap. Most people who use the expo rear have to cut and weld new spring perches for lift, but no if you WANT to go lower, straight swap.

Just get a V8 explorer and use everything you can

So if you use an expo rear end, does it maintain the correct angle degree for the drive shaft?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Basically, if the centerline of the trans output and the rear pinion are parallel (within a few degrees, there is some leeway) and the angle is less than specified then your good to go. You can always go beyond spec at the expense of longevity. I'm not on my computer where I have the specs saved, but you should be able to find them on various manufacturers website. Try Dana...

 

[Ranger850]

So if you use an expo rear end, does it maintain the correct angle degree for the drive shaft?

I haven't done the swap, but my assumption is that "if it worked on the Expo, why wouldn't it work on the Ranger?"


Love the look of a bodied/doored work truck, so I'll be looking for your build thread.

 

[19Walt93]

Basically, if the centerline of the trans output and the rear pinion are parallel (within a few degrees, there is some leeway) and the angle is less than specified then your good to go. You can always go beyond spec at the expense of longevity. I'm not on my computer where I have the specs saved, but you should be able to find them on various manufacturers website. Try Dana...

It's not just about longevity, mismatched angles will cause driveline vibration.
My truck had dropped I beams and the axle on top of the springs when I bought it. The 8.8 was junk and the pad were welded on at 2 different angles- neither was right- so I built an 8 inch from parts I had and some angled rear end shims to correct the angle. The digital angle meter from Summit was cheap and worth many times the price. To support my 351 I bought the highest rate stock springs I could find, they don't sag and it rides about like an F250.