1990 2.9L Top End Overhaul - Parts Sources and other Insights

[Demersus]

Hi all,

So, I have a project 1990 Custom Super Cab Ranger with the infamous 2.9L hitched to the equally dubious A4LD. I've had this rig for almost 10 years now, and of course in retrospect I wish I had heeded the warnings about the 2.9L. The whole project got way more involved and expensive than I ever expected. But I have made a lot of progress on the rig, and want to salvage what I can out of the rebuilt 2.9L.

I had an independent, small-shop mechanic do the initial rebuild back in 2011. But it turned out that one of the heads was actually cracked, so the project stalled and sat. I eventually obtained NOS Mahle aftermarket heads and redid the top end myself. But I used the original valves, springs, retainers, rockers, etc. because I was tight on cash at the time. During the rebuild it did get a new cam and lifters, but I'm not sure if the cam bearing were replaced. I think they were, but if so I also think I may have prematurely wore them by adjusting the valves too tight. The timing gear was replaced, BTW.

I have the typical valve train noise/ticking and loss-of-power issues that are notorious with this old Cologne design, which have gotten worse over the 10K miles on it now. And the fuel mileage has dropped, which I think is related to worsening valve train performance/oil starvation. I also had to put in fuel injectors, but got a set of refurbished. So that could be a factor also.

The bottom end seems strong though, having gotten a reground crank with new main & connecting rod bearings. The original pistons were used, but with new rings of course. And it got a new oil pump, which I think is still working fine. Mine does have a gauge, not just a light. I've read that some had "dummy" gauges, but I recently replaced the sending unit with a gauge type and it seems like it's a true gauge. But I've never done an actual pressure test on it. I plan to pressure test it, though I think it's fine. I dream of putting in a V8 one day, but for now this is my camping rig and I just want to get it working the best I can, given the design limitations of this motor and my financial constraints.

So I plan to overhaul the top end this winter. I've read a lot about the design flaws over the years, so I have a good idea of how to mitigate some of this. But I'm looking for input on performance or alternate parts sources. I am aware of Tom Morana, but that stuff is way too expensive for my needs. I've also read about getting hollow push rods and stronger valve springs. I just don't know where to source this stuff. Other than Tom Morana, what are some other 2.9L performance/alternate design parts sources?

I also read about drilling through the center of the rocker adjusting screws to allow better lifter oiling and air escape, but that is done in conjunction with having hollow push rods. And I've read about drilling the oiling passage through the cam bearings, which will increase the flow. And I see that super duty lifters are recommended. Again, not sure where to source this stuff. I believe the new cam was stock spec, but not sure. So I'd want to at least consider my options. Especially if I wore it with my terrible initial attempts to lash the valves. And other than Morana's roller rockers, are there any other aftermarket options? I know some people have moved to solid lifters from like the 2.8, which I would certainly consider. I think my stock rockers/arms are good, but not sure how to really assess that properly.

But mostly I'm looking for sources for performance/aftermarket design parts for the following:

Valves/Guides
Springs/Retainers
Hollow Push Rods
Heavy/Super Duty Hydraulic Lifters
Rocker Arm Options
Cam/Bearings
Fuel Injectors

A few afterthoughts:

I know you can put on a larger throttle body from other stock Ford motors, so that's on the table to consider.

I've also seen performance MSD coils.

And there are performance ECU/Chip mods, which is not something I've read much about yet. Here are some of those products I've found on eBay and Summit Racing. Any experience/insights/opinions about these?

https://www.summitracing.com/search/year/1990/make/ford/model/ranger/part-type/computer-chips-and-modules

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-1985-1995-Ford-Performance-Chip-Tuning-Power-Tuner/173776158671

I realize this is a whole can of worms and many people have posted/responded across many different Internet forums. Most have common themes, but sometimes I read something new. So always looking for new ideas, or at least confirmation that something specific works well.

Thanks,

Demersus

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

View attachment 50376

Hmmm.... you are quick to the post but lacking definition....
Perhaps some closed captions to go with the pics?

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Post was edited. Was only this at first:

 

[Demersus]

Wow, that's quite the undertaking. One of the main reasons I bought my '90 is because the body and frame were in very good shape, no cancer at all. The motor was shite, and so was the A4LD. I didn't mention this in the initial post, but I did have the tranny rebuilt not long after I got the motor back together with the new heads. I also got a set of 98-05 16" Explorer wheels and some 55 series Cooper tires.

 

[Demersus]

This is an interesting solid lifter conversion using the stock cam.

Fixing Ford's 2.9: The Solid Lifter Conversion

1988 Ford Ranger Stx 4x4 2.9l V6 5 speed I picked up this 1988 Ranger Stx 4x4 to use as a winter truck back in January of 2011 after ...

evilrobotarmy.blogspot.com

 

[gaz]

Demersus,

First and foremost, does this rebuilt 1990 Ford 2.9L engine with 10kmi run?

It sounds like it runs but the valve train was never properly adjusted. These engines are KNOWN to have a noisy valve train because there are tricky to adjust correctly. Many people never get it right, some never try.

So, before you do anything else, are you interested in giving "adjusting" the rockers, a try (also know as hydraulic lifter preload)?

In regards to getting more efficiency from this engine, here are some simple moves:

1) remove the crankshaft driven fan/clutch and install an electric 16" puller fan. This will not make your engine more powerful but it will reduce the parasitic load on your engine and will let more power be available to get better fuel economy and drivability.
2) you can add a remote oil filter adapter. With this you can position your oil filter where it gets more cooling and is not adjacent to your exhaust manifold. Depending on where you decide to locate it, the amount of hose you need to get it there will ad volume to your oil capacity, which should increase your ability to cool your oil. You can go a step farther and add an oil cooler, also adding to the oil volume and cooling capacity.
3) A fully balanced bottom end will result in an increase in efficiency of approximately 10%. This never goes away.
4) Verify that your gearing is appropriate for your tire size. Example; 4:10 is perfect for 32" rubber, 3:73 to 29.5"...
5) The 2.9L has a restrictive exhaust, moving up to 2¼" tubing will make a noticable improvement.
6) The flat top Aluminum pistons for the Ford 2.8L, our 2.9's predesessor, will bump the compression a solid point.

For actual power:

A) +20hp is reasonable from a quality flow benched port/polish job on the heads/intakes.
B) +20hp is reasonable from a quality set of headers.
C) +20hp is reasonable for a cam, custom ground for you engine.

If you valves/springs/retainers are within spec, there is no need to replace them, the valve guides on the other hand, I replace whenever I have a valve job performed.

There is some room to improve the BELOVED 2.9's efficiency but it can be VERY impressive, if in good shape, when it is properly adjusted.

The stock throttle body from a 86/87 will add 3hp across the RPM range and is a bolt-on; well worth consideration.

 

[Demersus]

Yes, it runs. And I spent a lot of time doing the valve adjustments, having gone over it several times to try to get it to quiet down. But no matter what, the ticking would return after a bit of driving. I know that I over tightened them out of frustration, and drove it too long in that state. Which probably contributed to premature cam/bearing wear, I suspect. But I finally put it back into spec and called it good.

Again, as per my initial post, I'm not looking to spend a lot more money on it. And I'm sure the bottom end is fine, it's actually a good runner except when I do long distance driving, especially climbing mountain passes with a load of gear on, it gets much worse and I experience sluggishness and very, very bad valve train noise. If I pull over and let it cool down, and then idle for a while to get the valve train lubed up again, it runs better for a while. And overall the mileage has dropped. I've decided to not drive over 65MPH and that seems to help with the oiling keeping up with it.

It's a 2WD, and while I do have 16" rims with 55 series tires, the diameter meets the stock tire size and my speedo runs correct. Yes, they are heavier, but not a larger radius. Oh, and it does have 2 1/4 straight exhaust off the stock collector, catless with now a stainless Flowmaster. It sounds very good, does not smoke or anything.

Otherwise, I like your suggestions and if I was doing it all from scratch again I might take each one. But at most I want to pull off the heads and maybe replace the cam, bearings, lifters, valve, springs, push rods and perhaps fuel injectors. When I put in the MAHLE heads, all the original valves and stuff look totally fine. But I'm not sure how to check if the springs are in spec. Oh, and I made the mistake of not marking original location of the push rods. I knew better, not sure why I didn't. I guess I was thinking I would replace them.

In regards to a custom cam grind, I've only just started to read up on that stuff. And one major consideration is making sure the grind will match the stock computer, from what I understand.

At one point after I initially got it back together, I got 21MPG on a camping trip. But since then, the best I get is about 18 or so. And even less at times, down to 16.

I like the electric fan idea, might pursue that.
Relocating the oil filter and adding a cooler seems reasonable as well, will look closer at that.
I'm already considering a larger TB, so thanks for the confirmation on that.
Tom Morana Racing actually has a dual TB set up, but man that stuff is spendy.
I just want to get a few more years out of this one for an around-town, errand runner and spring/summer camp rig for now.
At some point as I get closer to retirement, I'm very much interested in a 302/5.0L or 289 swap. But that's at least 5 - 7 years off, and perhaps never.

 

[MikeG]

Pardon my ignorance but why is valve train noise so much of a problem with the 2.9 and hydraulic lifters, but not so much with the 4.0 OHV and hydraulic lifters? Either there is some design nuance I'm not picking up on, or my hearing is so bad I can't hear the valve train in my 4.0 OHV..... which is a distinct possibility.

 

[Demersus]

It has a design flaw that is very well documented. It is due to the fact that the top end oil is fed only through two of the cam bearings. And based on a lot of reading over now nearly 10 years of owning it, one of the tell-tale signs of cam bearing wear is if the ticking gets worse after freeway driving. The 4.0L is a completely different motor.

 

[MikeG]

Ah OK thanks. Oil starvation and the lifters don't fill / stay filled up. Got it......

 

[Demersus]

No problem, I've learned a lot from these forums and now that I have so much experience I try to give others the "skinny" rundown, to whatever extent I can.

 

[MikeG]

Don't mean to derail the thread.... but thinking of looking for another BII. I have spent a little time looking for specific instructions on how to make sure the 2.9 doesn't get oil-starved on the top end. All I can find is references to the oil viscosity (make sense), and a style of cam bearings that will allow more oil flow.

If that's all there is, great, but I thought I read something about increasing oil flow through some of the bolts?

Anyway I have a lathe and a mill-drill, so if there is some simple home machining that would help, I'll love to read it. There's a jillion threads about getting more performance out of the 2.9, but I can't find specifics on what to DO about the oil starvation issue. If someone knows of a specific thread (and please if there are a hundred posts in it, more or less where to start looking) with specific instructions, that would be awesome. Drawings for machining operations a bonus