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What drill bit do I use for this simple turned nightmare job?


Eddo Rogue

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A lady friend asked me to help her hang a planter outside. I thought simple enough, but was skeptical because she is pretty handy, own and air bnb rents this place. ...

So I go to hang the planter. Its a stucco wall. No biggie, I have a plethora of drilling and fastening options. I figured drill through the stucco and send in a wood screw.

Go thru the stucco and was stopped dead in my tracks. Turns out the stucco is covering a window that use to be there. Then I saw the cracks.

Based on my drill point and the cracks in the stucco, I am probably hitting the metal frame and not glass.

whatever is behind that stucco ate up whatever I threw at it. Masonry bits, self centering bits, 135 degree metal drilling bits. Nothing came close to penetrating.

What is this mystical drill proof material behind the stucco? I can't believe after the mountains I have moved, a stupid planter hanging stumped me, because of the exact location this lady wants it.

Gods sense of humor is very wonderful sometimes. I'd like to accept his challenge and get a drill bit through this. I might borrow my buddy concrete drill and anchor it in the wall to poke through.

Any ideas? how would you poke a hole in adamantium? Stupid planter.
 


superj

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wow. thats crazy. maybe start with the tiny little bitty bit that almost always breaks as soon you look at it and work up from there, if you didn't try that already?

if you did, you could always put some kind of jb weld in the hole, along with the new hanger bolt/j-hook and let it dry
 

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If it's metal or wood, a cobalt bit should be fine for whatever kind of metal it is. Low speed, High pressure, lots of lube. Worse case scenario you push so hard you push the drill bit though the metal without actually cutting it.

If it's masonry, you need to hammer drill it. No way around that. I've used HSS drill bits on masonry before, but they don't last any where near as long as a real masonry bit.


What else could there be?
 

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Without knowing what's under the stucco, it's anybody's guess...I feel for you.
Is it possible to probe next to the spot you are trying to penetrate to get an idea of how much area this unknown material is covering?
I've drilled through stuff before and hit a nail head - 1/4 inch in any other direction and I would've been fine. .
It's frustrating because the more to dig in, the messier it gets.
 

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Most of the metal window frames I've run into are aluminum. Should be easy to drill. But maybe you are hitting a nail head or screw head, but even then I would think that it would drill thru even if it walked over sideways a bit. Perhaps use a punch and see if you can get some penetration that way? Move the hole over 1/2"?
 

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I agree with all the above. Can you post pictures? Is it an older building that has been remodeled? What kind of neighborhood? Could there be remnants of old security bars that were once mounted across the window? Only other thing I can think of would be masonry with rebar behind the stucco.
 

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I've drill through stucco many times when I used to to Awning. Try a 4" self tapping screws as a drill bit. If it walks on you, probably a screw/nail head. Sometimes the c-channel 2*4 stuff flexes just enough to cause issues like your having.
 

James Morse

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I vote that a nail head was hit as well... move the hole a little and try it... ?
 

Eddo Rogue

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wow. thats crazy. maybe start with the tiny little bitty bit that almost always breaks as soon you look at it and work up from there, if you didn't try that already?

if you did, you could always put some kind of jb weld in the hole, along with the new hanger bolt/j-hook and let it dry
I started with a 1/16" and yes it snapped. I only need like a 5/32" hole to send a screw through.
Not enough meat to glue anything in, plus a hook won't really work with their design :rolleyes:
 

Eddo Rogue

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Crossed threads are tight threads.
If it's metal or wood, a cobalt bit should be fine for whatever kind of metal it is. Low speed, High pressure, lots of lube. Worse case scenario you push so hard you push the drill bit though the metal without actually cutting it.

If it's masonry, you need to hammer drill it. No way around that. I've used HSS drill bits on masonry before, but they don't last any where near as long as a real masonry bit.


What else could there be?
Tried em all, and that's exactly what I wa asking scratching my head.

I did not try actual sds masonry bits in a big hammer drill, might give that a shot next time.

Last time tried just a chuck masonry bit with my regular drill in hammer mode.
 

Eddo Rogue

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Crossed threads are tight threads.
Without knowing what's under the stucco, it's anybody's guess...I feel for you.
Is it possible to probe next to the spot you are trying to penetrate to get an idea of how much area this unknown material is covering?
I've drilled through stuff before and hit a nail head - 1/4 inch in any other direction and I would've been fine. .
It's frustrating because the more to dig in, the messier it gets.
Nope, she doesn't want me to swiss cheese the wall. Also its pretty dead center and matching the ther wall/planter....I agree too, its gotta go right there. I tried 1/4" over...I'd have to go like 2" to clear the crack line.
 

Eddo Rogue

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My credo
Crossed threads are tight threads.
Most of the metal window frames I've run into are aluminum. Should be easy to drill. But maybe you are hitting a nail head or screw head, but even then I would think that it would drill thru even if it walked over sideways a bit. Perhaps use a punch and see if you can get some penetration that way? Move the hole over 1/2"?
You might be right, on the side the bit walked over something and got through. I'm probably perfectly on a nail head 🤦‍♂️...Might have to sneak around it and still land the screw to fit.
 

Eddo Rogue

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Crossed threads are tight threads.
I agree with all the above. Can you post pictures? Is it an older building that has been remodeled? What kind of neighborhood? Could there be remnants of old security bars that were once mounted across the window? Only other thing I can think of would be masonry with rebar behind the stucco.
Me too. I'll take some pics when I go back this weekend. Its sort of a recently gentrified suburb, nice area between the mansions and the ghettos. Maybe built in the 80's-90's, typical single story stick frame,wood and stucco skin.

It's been upgraded/remodeled a few times. I've done and seen a lot of work on it.

I'll ask about the security bars, she hired the guys to wall the window, so she would know. I hope she did'nt pay much, they literally stucco'd over the window smh.
 

Eddo Rogue

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Crossed threads are tight threads.
Thanks guys, excellent responses!I knew I could count on ya'll.
 

James Morse

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Use S-shape screw then it will go in offset hole but be in right place at the surface. (jk) seriously maybe you can do it with the screw just not going in totally straight which would probably be only a quite small cosmetic issue probably could ignore as long as the purchase of the screw is good

there could be one nail in a whole wall and Murphy says, you'll probably hit it

hitting electrical is worse especially if your drill shorts them out. never had it happen yet, but it can; but usually electrical sockets etc will clue you in where the wiring likely is
 

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