danielwd
New Member
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2010
- Messages
- 56
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
- Vehicle Year
- 1994
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Transmission
- Manual
I was stranded a few weeks ago, where my ranger just gave out - felt like I was riding with half power or two cylinders. The engine was jumping around and really idling very rough. Figured it was the throttle position sensor. Changed plugs and wires and throttle position sensor in the parking lot with no luck and had it towed back home. The EGR valve and Idle Air Valve are new. I cleaned the MAF sensor today. I have sprayed carb cleaner everywhere with no change in RPM's (looking for vacuum leaks). The muffler has a validated leak, which is new I think. The muffler rumbles and makes a loud, deeply pitched rumbling. I think is a new development. The CODES I have pulled are: 326 (Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) snsor or EGR Pressure Transducer (EPT) - signal voltage lower than expected); 411 (Cannot control RPM during Engine Run Self-Test - low RPM check; 538 (Insufficient RPM change during Dynamic Response Test {Engine Run Self-Test}. or, Invalid cylinder balance test - throttle position movement. or, Invalid cylinder balance test - cylinder identification problems.)
I doubt a leaky muffler would cause the rougher idling and stalling upon acceleration. The 326 and 538 codes have been posting for years and the truck ran fine. After the change of throttle position sensor, the truck idles 99% better than it did in the parking lot when I was stranded. In fact, I can barely tell a difference when idling in neutral than before the break down. The thing is running great, until I try and drive it. Also, it used to start first try, now it is taking two tries to get it to start.
I changed out the fuel pump, fuel filler, and fuel filter this summer after I broke down. That solved the problem, and the truck has been running fine since a few weeks ago.
Any help would be appreciated - I am leaning towards checking the timing to make sure the timing belt did not jump off for a second, and, also, I am wondering if the cam sensor is malfunctioning, although it seems like that would throw a code. I did observe the timing belt through the peep hole, and it looked good.
Also I thoroughly cleaned the throttle body recently when I changed out the EGR valve. I also changed out the PCV today.
Again, thanks for any help.
I doubt a leaky muffler would cause the rougher idling and stalling upon acceleration. The 326 and 538 codes have been posting for years and the truck ran fine. After the change of throttle position sensor, the truck idles 99% better than it did in the parking lot when I was stranded. In fact, I can barely tell a difference when idling in neutral than before the break down. The thing is running great, until I try and drive it. Also, it used to start first try, now it is taking two tries to get it to start.
I changed out the fuel pump, fuel filler, and fuel filter this summer after I broke down. That solved the problem, and the truck has been running fine since a few weeks ago.
Any help would be appreciated - I am leaning towards checking the timing to make sure the timing belt did not jump off for a second, and, also, I am wondering if the cam sensor is malfunctioning, although it seems like that would throw a code. I did observe the timing belt through the peep hole, and it looked good.
Also I thoroughly cleaned the throttle body recently when I changed out the EGR valve. I also changed out the PCV today.
Again, thanks for any help.