rear main seals

[kunar]

i've got my transmission out and im noticing my rear main is leaking. its been dripping on the starter and making the starter act funny as well. i need to replace it before my trans goes back in but my big question is about the different types. autozone lists 2 different seals for my engine (2.9) and ones only $15 and the other is $30. the expensive one is listed as ptfe and the other one is listed as rubber. what do you guys use? is the extra cost worth it for the better seal? also, whats the trick to making it seal right? this will be the second one ive done. the first one went in about 10k miles ago and its leaking already.

 

[michowski]

I put a rubber one on my truck during the summer. I was replacing the bearings at the time but I just made sure to wipe the surface down really good before installing it. Took my time and just carefully slid it on. Id buy from napa to if I were you. Im tired of duracrap parts going out way to early. Only thing I try and buy from autozone if I have to is gaskets, or my lifetime brake parts.

 

[kunar]

napa, autozone and csk all list the same part (felpro) but i think theres a better chance autozone will stock it. and i know murrays will have it tomorrow if i order it tonight.

 

[michowski]

Just run your finger nail over the surface and make sure there arent any ridges or uneven surfaces. Wipe it down clean of oil and install the new seal.

 

[snake]

Use the high dollar seal. Pay me now or pay me later comes to mind- paying later requires you dropping the transmission again.

And I agree, I only use brand name motor oil from vatozone and thats it.

 

[Mutant Pony]

Usually, The reason a seal leaks is because of wear in bearings or bushings. This may or may not be the problem in your case.
As a mechanic, I have turned down hundreds of rear main seal jobs because about 98% of the time it is just a waste.

 

[kunar]

Usually, The reason a seal leaks is because of wear in bearings or bushings. This may or may not be the problem in your case.
As a mechanic, I have turned down hundreds of rear main seal jobs because about 98% of the time it is just a waste.

theres a good chance... theres 200k miles on the engine. im gonna replace it now though, it may help or it may not. i can only get the cheaper one today (or tomorrow) though

 

[Mutant Pony]

If it is crank movement that is causing the leak, the more expensive one isn't gonna work any better. Make sure the drain hole in the nose cone of the starter is cleaned out. If your starter doesn't have a drain hole in the bottom of the nose cone it may be a good idea to add one. Motor oil getting inside the drive gear is usually what causes them to fail.

 

[kunar]

If it is crank movement that is causing the leak, the more expensive one isn't gonna work any better. Make sure the drain hole in the nose cone of the starter is cleaned out. If your starter doesn't have a drain hole in the bottom of the nose cone it may be a good idea to add one. Motor oil getting inside the drive gear is usually what causes them to fail.

i didnt really feel any up and down movement, but i did check end play. i dont remember what it was but it was in spec (this was last time i replaced it) i dont remember seeing any drain hold in the starter. im pretty sure it was the oil causing the problem though, i could clean it with brake cleaner and it would be fine for a couple days. i was hoping it was the clutch hydraulics leaking but i dont think its the case. kinda hard to tell for sure but i think its the rear main.

 

[Mutant Pony]

You wouldn't be able to feel the play in the crank. The only way to tell for sure would be to dissassemble the engine and plastigauge it.
When you pull the old main seal, inspect it for problems. Check how tight it fits the crank. It could be a seal problem because it is hard to buy quality parts anymore. The new one will probably be made in China.
I've never seen a Ford starter that didn't have a drain hole. It is at the parting line between the nose cone and the main housing. It is usually plugged with clutch material (on a manual).

 

[kunar]

You wouldn't be able to feel the play in the crank. The only way to tell for sure would be to dissassemble the engine and plastigauge it.

no reason to do that.... the 4.0 is going in as soon as i get a chance

i got the new seal but i havent done anything with it. ive been under the truck all day, now its time for a shower and bed. thanks for your insight.

 

[Mutant Pony]

Yeah. I wasn't recomending that you do that. Just telling you that is the only way to know for sure.
The 4.0 should fix the problem.

 

[Hardwareman]

I just replaced both the front and rear main seals on my 2.3 engine about a week ago. I got them at Kragen because they price matched and beat AutoZone by 5%. Identical items.

The "BRAND NEW" front seal was leaking after I had it all together. A quick trip to NAPA to buy another new front seal solved the problem. The seal from Kragen was bad out of the box...........it was made in Mexico. If that means anything.




Allen

 

[snake]

As discussed above- pay me now or pay me later...

The same reason I don't buy rebuilt master and slave cylinders. I prefer to do the labor ONCE.

 

[MAKG]

Just one question -- how does the rear main drip on the starter?

I could see leaky valve covers doing that, or MAYBE a leaky oil pan.

Job #1 is to replace the correct part....