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85 Ranger getting some teeth...


Forgive me if I messed it in this thread, but does the passenger side header clear the frame without cutting?

100_2760.jpg


It fit really nice, having my engine sitting an inch higher on that side than where the convertable mounts would put it helped too. I did it for oil pan clearance (a non-issue I guess on a 2wd) but it helped the header vs framerail situation too, it would have been tight without it. That whole crossmember is different in ways I am not sure of 2wd to 4wd though.

One thing I don't really like about them is the #7 tube hugs is on the inside of the header making it really tight for the engine oil dipstick. Mine is kind of wedged in there, very slightly pinched between the header and block (we will see how that goes I guess) The actual swap header has #7 to the outside of the header and should give it more room for the dipstick. The pipes get all clustered together for the collector right in front of the dipstick port on the block, so you can't just go around the headers without getting a horrific bend in the tube. For the Comet/Falcon that the 88400 was designed for with the dipstick in the timing cover it wouldn't have been an issue.

88400

hed-88400_w.jpg


89500

hed-89500_w.jpg


So I think the perfect set of swap headers for my application would be the DS of the 89500 and the PS of the 88400 :icon_thumby: It is too bad you cant only order the left side of the 89500's, for an extra $40 (cheaper than a single aftermarket dipstick) you would have the best of both worlds IMO.

If I was doing a 2wd I would go with the Shelby tri-y's, they need a little tweaking to fit the 164t bell but they also fit really nice. About the same price as the Hedmans too.

If anyone has anything on making t-case linkages don't be shy. People are always mixing and matching them and I doubt they are crawling under the truck to shift them manually. I have a C5 tranny and a BW1350M for those that haven't been paying attention.
 
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if you dont mind could you get a pic of the driver side header in relation to the dipstick..i just ordered the 88400... thanks
 
88400

hed-88400_w.jpg


89500

hed-89500_w.jpg


So I think the perfect set of swap headers for my application would be the DS of the 89500 and the PS of the 88400 :icon_thumby:

Dang, I always assumed they two used the same drivers side header.:icon_confused: I've Been wrong on that assumption all along. :buttkick:
 
if you dont mind could you get a pic of the driver side header in relation to the dipstick..i just ordered the 88400... thanks

100_2799.jpg


This is all I have right now. Dipstick is a Lokar ED5004, the stock steel tube couldn't do the bends and the mounting tab was out in the middle of nowhere (reaching for the much thicker cast manifold) I stuck the headers on as I was setting the engine in there for the last time, they have to come off for the dipstick. The DS header dropped out the bottom, but I pulled the valve cover to go back together.

I did get the transmission shifter fitted to the floor of the truck today. I used my parts truck bezel to experiment with, I am going to transfer my altered parts to my manual 4x4 bezel. I tried to get the numbers off of the lens out my parts truck's bezel too but I couldn't even scratch it with my fingernail, it was out of a '86 dunno if they changed the mix in the paint or what. The slider thing needed some custom touches with my dremel, only below the existing hole. The shifter came with several shift pattern decals. The three speed std pattern was too long for mine, so I cut it and moved the numbers closer (from the other patterns) With the carpet installed, it reads dead perfect.

I don't have it hooked up to the tranny yet, but I love the feel of this shifter vs the factory one. The lever is longer so it is more comfortable, it also has less throw and all around looks/feels better too. :icon_thumby:

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The lines between the stickers don't normally show up that good (at least in the shop)

100_2840.jpg
 
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Nice progress on the shifter/linkage:icon_thumby: Have you fired the engine up yet? looks like it's getting pretty close
 
Nice progress on the shifter/linkage:icon_thumby: Have you fired the engine up yet? looks like it's getting pretty close

No, I still have to wire in the neutral start switch and wire/connect the electric fuel pump, plus install the radiator and hoses/tranny cooler lines.

But yeah, it is getting pretty close. :yahoo:

After I get it started I am going to stick the front dress on, the power steering pump and alternator will completely block my oil filter adaptor on the block from view... and I kinda want to make sure that isn't leaking before I get all that stuff put on only to pull it back off again.
 
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So, all in all how difficult was the 302 swap?
 
So, all in all how difficult was the 302 swap?

So far it really wasn't all that bad for me. I have had one of the most maintenance intensive trucks out there for close to 10 years so I knew my way around it pretty well before I started on this. I have had the tranny out, put a body lift on it and had about everything off the engine except the oil pan, exhaust manifolds, lower intake, timing cover and crankshaft pulley/dampener.

It was challenging for me, but in a fun and creative way.

Anybody that has read a page of this build will know that I couldn't have even got this far without TRS though. :icon_thumby:
 
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If I understand correctly you are trying to remove the numbers on your shifter cover.
If that is the case try using simple green on the letters. I found out the hard way that simple green will wipe the white painted letters off of interior parts.
I use the concentrate and mix it about 70/30 water to sg.
the bottle even says becareful with paint(I read that after the fact duh).
anyways it is cheap and it might work. just an idea
 
If I understand correctly you are trying to remove the numbers on your shifter cover.
If that is the case try using simple green on the letters. I found out the hard way that simple green will wipe the white painted letters off of interior parts.
I use the concentrate and mix it about 70/30 water to sg.
the bottle even says becareful with paint(I read that after the fact duh).
anyways it is cheap and it might work. just an idea

They whiped right off my '85, they had turned to some sort of powder. I couldn't scratch the one out of my parts truck though... which I didn't really need to.

That is good to know if something happens to my '85's lens though. :icon_thumby:
 
When my 2.8 dies i haven't decided if i want to go the 4L route or to do a 302 swap. So far yours looks great :icon_thumby:
 
When my 2.8 dies i haven't decided if i want to go the 4L route or to do a 302 swap. So far yours looks great :icon_thumby:

Dunno what to tell you about 4.0 vs 5.0. I have never been around a 5.0 vehicle but I haven't found the parents 4.0 Explorers to be particularly impressive for either power or fuel economy, with virtually no aftermarket to improve either.

Thanks for the compliment. :icon_cheers:
 
Trying to get the throttle hooked up now.

My stock cable works and clips on how it is supposed to, but the stock bracket that bolted on the back of the upper intake manifold is nowhere close to fitting anything.

So I ordered the regular Edelbrock cable bracket (part #1490)... of course no instructions included and I can't find a pic of how it mounts anywhere on the net. Dunno if I have to cut my stock bracket and bolt the part where the cables mount on the top of this thing or what is supposed to happen. :icon_confused:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-1490/
 
It isn't pretty but is functional. Getting tired of this aftermarket crap with no or crappy directions.

I did find a tidbit in my linkage set instructions that mentioned that this bracket is intended to relocate the factory linkage and that bending or cutting the factory bracket may be required. Ok fine, I can handle that.

Stock bracket:

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So I made a bracket to hold the thing straight, then I smooshed and trimmed my stock bracket and found some pretty serious clearance problems... plain and simple it wouldn't clear the air filter housing:

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Ok so they were full of crap on that idea, the '80 F-350 service truck at work and my '78 302 had the same style of holder (I only have pics of the 302 one, I can't find it anywhere) with the slot and hole so it wouldn't work for even the factory 302 setup. Edelbrock carb, Edelbrock bracket, Edelbrock aircleaner, Weiand intake, maybe something is different with that.

So I got creative with the die grinder. It isn't pretty but will work for now. Going to continue research and see if anything else will work better but I haven't found much really yet.

100_2862.jpg


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The cable isn't straight, but I did that to try to relieve some of the pressure on the cable. Down the road I think I will probably need a different cable/holder setup but this will be good enough to see how it runs and get me around for awhile.
 
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Look for an accellerator cable bracket off an early 70's 302. Should bolt right on and line up perfectly.
 

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