85 Ranger getting some teeth...

[baddad457]

Don't see why the aircleaner wouldn't work, mine did. It's a 14" repop 289 Hi-po (Mr Gasket) cleaner from the local Advance Auto. Put a 1/2" phenolic spacer between the carb and intake to lift it up some, you'll need it anyway to keep the carb insulated from the intake. Oh, and remove that plastic cover from the steering joint, it'll do fine without it.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Don't see why the aircleaner wouldn't work, mine did. It's a 14" repop 289 Hi-po (Mr Gasket) cleaner from the local Advance Auto. Put a 1/2" phenolic spacer between the carb and intake to lift it up some, you'll need it anyway to keep the carb insulated from the intake. Oh, and remove that plastic cover from the steering joint, it'll do fine without it.

I didn't know if I would need a spacer or not, the intake sticks up pretty high as it sits. With that it would be fine with the distributor.

The plastic cover has to go, it just hasn't gone yet. It won't fit back down in there with my engine mount where it is.

 

[baddad457]

I ran a 1/2" spacer with the above mentioned aircleaner with a 3" K&N filter, on top of a Holley carb and Ford A321 intake (same as the old "Cobra highrise) just barely cleared the hood.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

For the driveshafts, do you want it to be in the middle of its flex range or to one side or the other?

I am going to try to get the T-Case in it tonight to seal off the tranny, it is going to really nice just to have park again...

 

[baddad457]

Ideally, it should go in as far as possible and still have an inch or two til it bottoms out.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I got the oil filter lines hooked up. For the return it took a 45 degree angle fitting on the adaptor on block to get it away from the head. For the outlet it was a little tougher, a 4" nipple coming out with a 45 on that to kick it a little to the back and dodge the powersteering pump. If I could have gotten the 45 degree fitting it would have been fine, but two will not install on the relocation fitting without hitting each other. Once a nipple goes on to clear the other fitting it starts hitting the head until you get it up aways. I would have liked to have the hoses follow more of the same line, but the outlet hose wasn't flexible enough to make the curve. I suppose single wire would have been more flexible, but we only stock 2 wire and that is what our crimper is set up for.

It also would have been nice to have the ports on one of the adaptors reversed so the hoses didn't have to cross.

Trying to get the original dipstick tube wedged between the headers and head... it isn't going. It is plain and simple too tight, but looking at aftermarket ones it is really hard to see how they will fit. All the installed 88400 pics on here I can find don't have the dipstick installed yet.

 

[hddave1]

where did you order the oil relocation kit and the p/s pump bracker..part #? great thread, i have learned alot just reading this thread..cant wait til this weeken to start tearing into mine..

 

[baddad457]

I think you're the first that's run the filter lines up, instead of down, it's been said that running em up, causes the oil to drain back to the pan when you kill the motor, don't know if that's true or not, just somethin to think about. Nice job on the P/S - Alt. bracket polish job.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

where did you order the oil relocation kit and the p/s pump bracker..part #? great thread, i have learned alot just reading this thread..cant wait til this weeken to start tearing into mine..

I got the two aluminum adaptors from Summit, I cut and crimped the hose myself.

I think you're the first that's run the filter lines up, instead of down, it's been said that running em up, causes the oil to drain back to the pan when you kill the motor, don't know if that's true or not, just somethin to think about. Nice job on the P/S - Alt. bracket polish job.

There were a lot of pics on here with the filter in the same place (where the evap canistor was) with hoses going either way. Running hoses down and around would have been really long to dodge everything and come out where I needed them, and more likely to get snagged on something. Dunno how big of a deal it would be, but longer hoses also reduce pressure. I figured since the filter was still the highest point it wouldn't really matter if the hoses went up or down for drainback. The filter won't drain, and since it has a anti-drainback valve at least one of the lines shouldn't either.

My bumper is... just a bumper. Anything outside the frame is a no-go for the way my tires throw rocks and just about anything else... with that in consideration it really limits your options where you can put the filter out of harms way.

I just bead blasted the bracket and hit it with the same aluminum paint that I used for the intake.

 

[5.0]

The bracket looks nice... I would do it to mine if I'd take the time to clean everything.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

The bracket looks nice... I would do it to mine if I'd take the time to clean everything.

It came out really good, it looks like a pure solid chunk of some kind of metal. It looks too dull for polished aluminum and too shiny for cast... adamantium maybe

Dunno how long it will stay looking like that, you can see how dirty the rest of the truck is...

 

[hddave1]

looks good..im going to order me a pump bracket if i cant get 1 from the junk yard

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

where did you order the oil relocation kit and the p/s pump bracker..part #? great thread, i have learned alot just reading this thread..cant wait til this weeken to start tearing into mine..

I can't find my receipt, but the filter housing is a Trans-Dapt 102? (there is something over the last number in my picture of the stuff in a box) and the adaptor that goes on the block is a Perma-Cool 2791.

They have filter bases with the ports in different places, now that I know where I am putting it if I had it to do again I would look for one with the ports perpandicular to the mounting base so I didn't have to have the big 90 degree fittings on the hoses.

looks good..im going to order me a pump bracket if i cant get 1 from the junk yard

This setup is often found on mid to late 80's big land yachts, like say a crown vic.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Got some more stuff done to the engine, carb on and most of the vacuum stuff hooked up, spark plugs changed, spark plug wires cut and installed. I have to do some adjusting with the wires yet, but I have to wait until we get it timed.

Hit a little snag down below though... anyone else have ideas? I think Smokey the blue flame wrench will take care of the lever hitting the dash but as far as reshaping the lever going to the t-case I haven't came up with anything yet. The lever coming out of the t-case has a lot of throw to it so how to make the notch thing so it doesn't lose the lever will take a little planning. Wishing I had bought the 1350 that he had on the tranny for a spare and got the linkage too...

I also disassembled the shift bezel and discovered that the shift pattern was a white powder (probably paint at one time) that very easily whiped off, so now if I just find stickers that fit I will have that solved.

I have a just the gearshift bezel out of my parts truck (was pushbutton 4wd) so I will probably try to use it for my shifter (B&M Unimatic) It would be kind of neat to have the light up selector with the shifter that greatly resembles the factory shifter.

 

[5.0]

Forgive me if I messed it in this thread, but does the passenger side header clear the frame without cutting?