85 Ranger getting some teeth...

[85_Ranger4x4]

I duct taped up the intake ports and lifter valley to give the front of the engine another bath. I stuck my 289 intake on it to help hold it down.

While my engine degreaser was working I chased the secondary air injection ports and ran in some 5/8-11 bolts.

Got it clean and started painting:

All done with clear:

I can't wait to get it home and get the intake on it and set my chrome valve covers on it until I get ready to drop it in...

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Well the intake and valve covers make it look scary nice... like 10x the engine you would expect to see in the truck.

If I were to get the 500CFM Edelbrock 1403 carb, what else would I need to go with it to get it to work with my C4/5 and maybe my factory throttle cable?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-1403/

Also, how do I tell what size of flexplate I need for my C4 bellhousing?

Edit,
Better pic in the daylight:

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Is there going to be a fitment problem with using the factory manifolds in my Ranger?

I was looking for info on id'ing my tranny flexplate size and noticed they updated the 5.0 swap thing in the tech library. They say to use the older style manifolds. They look different than my 289's, the driver's side on mine dumps between #7 and #8... you can see it in the pic when I was going to wash it again before paint.

Comparing the two I thought the '87's manifolds looked better, not such a sharp cuve down and possibly larger inside (hard to tell) They also fit much tighter to the block than my SN-95 shorty headers that are supposed to be all over the frame on the passenger side.

I have them painted up, and I have one fingertight on the engine because the exhaust manifold stud kits had three long studs, one short stud and 4 bolts... I had to get two longer bolts to replace the less than perfect originals.

Exhaust:

You basically have (3) choices when it comes to exhaust manifolds for your V-8:

1) Early to mid 1970's Ford 289, 302 or 351W Exhaust Manifolds

2) Explorer 5.0L exhaust manifolds

3) Advance Adapters exhaust manifolds

The problem with exhaust manifolds is having enough clearance between the engine and frame rail. The nice thing about the 1970's exhaust manifolds is that they don't have any downward flanges that might point the exhaust in to the frame rail. An exhaust shop will easily be able to plumb an exhaust system that will clear the frame rail and firewall.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/V8Conversions.html

 

[JoeyB]

If you have a few extra coins lying around I would use a Lokar throttle cable. I use one and it's pretty sweeeet No real mods had to be done to use it because you can loop it.

Your project is looking really good. Keep the photos coming.

 

[Psychopete]

Heck yeah, looking good man!

 

[Teddyzee]

That article should be updated again showing tri-y headers.

Though it does show my engine for the Mustang motor mounts

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Thanks for the compliments so far.

For the throttle cable I think I might be ok with the original. It works fine with Ford carbs so I think it is pretty standard that way. I was wondering how an Edelbrock carb out of the box will hook up to a Ford throttle cable. I didn't know if there was an adapter or something out there or if it will work fine the way it is.

Any thoughts on my exhaust manifold situation? Just looking at some of the exhaust manifolds listed, some don't really look all that different overall than what is currently on my engine (as far as sticking out too far and exit location)

 

[baddad457]

Is there going to be a fitment problem with using the factory manifolds in my Ranger?

I was looking for info on id'ing my tranny flexplate size and noticed they updated the 5.0 swap thing in the tech library. They say to use the older style manifolds. They look different than my 289's, the driver's side on mine dumps between #7 and #8... you can see it in the pic when I was going to wash it again before paint.

Comparing the two I thought the '87's manifolds looked better, not such a sharp cuve down and possibly larger inside (hard to tell) They also fit much tighter to the block than my SN-95 shorty headers that are supposed to be all over the frame on the passenger side.

If the dipstick goes into the case of the C-4, then you need a 157 tooth bell and flexplate. As for those 87 manifolds, I don't think they'll clear in a Ranger, seems to me many have tried them here and none worked. If you've got a 157 tooth bell, Shelby Tri-Y's are the ticket.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

98.2% sure that the dipstick went into the case... probably gonna have to get a different flexplate then.

I didn't think tri-y's worked with a 4x4?

Would my 289 manifolds work with the one dumping down at a angle?

 

[RangerFabWorks]

clean engine my friend. what did you paint the block with? and what kind of clear?

i just did mine with urethane paint and a good urethane clear. and im curious how its going to hold up.

well see haha

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

clean engine my friend. what did you paint the block with? and what kind of clear?

i just did mine with urethane paint and a good urethane clear. and im curious how its going to hold up.

well see haha

I think it was Duplicolor, they were both the same brand.

Intake was Plasticote.

 

[baddad457]

98.2% sure that the dipstick went into the case... probably gonna have to get a different flexplate then.

I didn't think tri-y's worked with a 4x4?

Would my 289 manifolds work with the one dumping down at a angle?

I think some have used tri-y's on 4x4's. I'd try em before choking it with those manifolds.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I have been searching for most of the night and haven't found any success stories so far.

I really, really do not want to do anything to the frame...

 

[Explore]

Check the drivers side clearance on those manifolds. Dropped my engine in this week and not much room before it hit's the steering shaft on my 88.

 

[sloue]

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