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85 Ranger getting some teeth...


On a unrelated to the engine but very related to the swap I drug my tranny back out of the shed and got it ready to clean up and maybe paint (that aluminum paint is kind a fun to use)

Anyway I notice it has a hump in the pan, which I think means the guts of it is a C5. Neither the tailhousing or the bellhousing really look like it matches the center section so it could be a V8 C5 for all I know.

The guy I got it from had it in I think a '84 BII a couple of years ago, with a 302 of unknown year and 1350M t-case. I got there just as he was unbolting the TC from the flexplate, the fluid under the tranny looked perfect. BII was being parted because of terminal rust, body was gone it was just a rolling chassis when I got there.

I have heard that some parts inside need to be changed for a V8 swap. I think it is just the TC, valve body and front pump that needs changed, the TC probably is ok since it was on a 302 but how do you check the others?

What do I need to do to make sure this thing is safe for a overall pretty tame 302?

The spacer plate that goes between the engine, are there different thicknesses of those or all they pretty standard? While dragging out my C4 I found the plate for my 289 which looks like a direct match for the starter hole.

Edit, Pics added,:

Bellhousing decodes as a 82 design for a fullsize Ford, automatic... not really that helpfull.

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The number reads as a E0AP, 1980 fullsize Ford, automatic. Didn't see a casting # on the case, it still has fluid in it and it dumps out if it isn't sitting just right. Dunno where to look yet either.

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Tri-Y's came in today...

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They don't really extend much farther than what I can eyeball the bellhousing to go.

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Nice and tight on the drivers side.

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Not quite as tight on the passenger side.

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I started putting my Moroso loom kit on, I can't say per the kit it is really all that great. I think if I would get another set so I can have another holder at the front of each valve cover and the rear passenger side holder going the other way so it will hold two wires instead of one it would be better.

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I also swiped the small engine stand from work, we rarely get anything small enough that won't crush it. I got the C5 stuck on it and gave it a closer inspection and found the casting on the case.

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Comes out as a 82-86 case fill C-5.

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82 is a C=5 bell. And they're 164 tooth too, If I recall correctly.
 
82 is a C=5 bell. And they're 164 tooth too, If I recall correctly.

That is not what I wanted to hear...

My adapter plate from my 289 matches the bell perfectly, at lunch I will try and see how it compares with my engine. If it is smaller I would have a different C4 bell... if not I don't.
 
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Just going by eyeball, your bell housing is shaped diff than mine. Yours carries the diameter further back than mine. I have the 157T flexplate and smaller converter, 10.5" bolt pattern. Think yours is bigger.
 
Just going by eyeball, your bell housing is shaped diff than mine. Yours carries the diameter further back than mine. I have the 157T flexplate and smaller converter, 10.5" bolt pattern. Think yours is bigger.

I have read the C5 bell was deeper for the locking TC.

I got a C4 when I got my 289 way back when, it is still in the shed. I have the plate that goes between the engine and tranny loose to compare with. I know it matches the C5 bell diameter so if it doesn't come close to the AOD plate still on the engine I am screwed for using this bell.

I also found that the 157t flexplate was never offered with a 50oz engine from the factory...

Have to get a different TC, might have to change stuff inside for a C4 TC to work, but I am pretty sure I have that stuff in my C4.

Kinda having regrets on the headers... they had better fit after I do all this crap to the transmixer. On the plus side a regular C4 bell would gain me more radiator clearance, and I was already toying with the idea of a new TC... one of those "while I am here" things.

If I find a 157 C4 bell, what do I need to look for to see if it will work, or will any '70 and later SBF bell work? What kind of torque converter do I need? Are they a once size fits all flexplate? Not seeing any breakdown for fitment other than the bolt pattern...
 
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Good luck. Hope they fit for you. Got a major problem myself. Tried to turn engine by hand to put the four flexplate nuts on and will only turn about 20 degrees. Looks like I'm dropping the tranny and transfer case again. First automatic I've fooled with and must have done something wrong. Hate doing stuff twice!
 
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I have read the C5 bell was deeper for the locking TC.

I got a C4 when I got my 289 way back when, it is still in the shed. I have the plate that goes between the engine and tranny loose to compare with. I know it matches the C5 bell diameter so if it doesn't come close to the AOD plate still on the engine I am screwed for using this bell.

I also found that the 157t flexplate was never offered with a 50oz engine from the factory...

Have to get a different TC, might have to change stuff inside for a C4 TC to work, but I am pretty sure I have that stuff in my C4.

Kinda having regrets on the headers... they had better fit after I do all this crap to the transmixer. On the plus side a regular C4 bell would gain me more radiator clearance, and I was already toying with the idea of a new TC... one of those "while I am here" things.T

If I find a 157 C4 bell, what do I need to look for to see if it will work, or will any '70 and later SBF bell work? What kind of torque converter do I need? Are they a once size fits all flexplate? Not seeing any breakdown for fitment other than the bolt pattern...

Not only is the C5 bell bulged farther rearward, but it's also about an inch deeper(making the transmission overall length longer) too. When you match the block plate again, look at how the starter holes line up to the bell, that's the only difference. The block to bell bolt holes are the same for all the 6 bolt bells. I just bought a 50 oz/157 tooth flexplate from Summit for mine. (swapping out the manual trans to get the truck ready to sell) It was $83.
 
I know, but I don't get a discount at Summit and have to pay freight... :D

Stinkin' C4 is 164t too. Case is a D4ZP and bell is a D7EP, case fill.

Am I going to be chasing a unicorn looking for a 157 bell or are they pretty common?

The 157 tooth bells aren;t hard to find, but you may pay a premium for it. The C-4 I'm swapping into mine was pulled from a 68 Stang. I paid $150 for the whole trasnmission.
 
Not only is the C5 bell bulged farther rearward, but it's also about an inch deeper(making the transmission overall length longer) too. When you match the block plate again, look at how the starter holes line up to the bell, that's the only difference. The block to bell bolt holes are the same for all the 6 bolt bells. I just bought a 50 oz/157 tooth flexplate from Summit for mine. (swapping out the manual trans to get the truck ready to sell) It was $83.

I checked the starter. I found the plate I got with my '78 with a burnt AOD and it was a dead match with both the C4 and C5.

Also, isn't there a break around '70 or '71 where they changed the way the way the bell mounts on the tranny?
 
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Am I missing something here (again)

http://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/513200/10002/-1

Cast from high strength aluminum and eliminates the need for a seperate flexplate shield. Accepts either 157 or 164-tooth fly wheels. Hardware included. Fits case-filled or pan filled transmission. Available with or without SFI specification.

Are there options when you order or does it have to sets of bolt holes for the starter?
 
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Just to further confuse you, that Mustang II bell uses a 147 tooth flexplate. :D That TCI bell ? I've never seen one in person, but unless it's got a dual bolt pattern for the starter (can;t tell from the pics), there's no way it'll work with both 157 & 164 tooth wheels. They make a dual pattern block plate that works with either size, but it's got a dual starter bolt pattern along with a knockout portion to index the starter nose.
 
Just to further confuse you, that Mustang II bell uses a 147 tooth flexplate. :D That TCI bell ? I've never seen one in person, but unless it's got a dual bolt pattern for the starter (can;t tell from the pics), there's no way it'll work with both 157 & 164 tooth wheels. They make a dual pattern block plate that works with either size, but it's got a dual starter bolt pattern along with a knockout portion to index the starter nose.

I just found that too and took it out, when I was done with my edit it refreshed and then I saw your post. :D

I dunno, the more I think about the more I am thinking about sending the headers back. I read what I wanted to read aways back and thought for some stupid reason that if it was a case fill it HAD a 157T bellhousing, when it was if it is a case fill I NEED a 157T bell. I didn't catch that until this morning when you replied I had a 164t bell.

By the time I track down a bellhousing from a select few cars from the 60's and 70's for $1-200, a new flexplate for $85, torque converter for $170 and the plate that goes between the engine for $20... don't know how good of a deal it is. That is about $500 of parts with freight to get $160 headers to work with a $200 transmission and I don't still don't know if the headers will fit with the stock transfer-case and if they don't its all for naught.

Tranny is already set up with a 164t bell, torque converter that is ready to go, if I wanted I have a shallower 164t bell, I have a like new 164t 50oz flexplate, 3 plates that go between the engine... Long story short, I could bolt everything I have together right now and drop in the truck (if it was ready) tomorrow. I dunno, I think it will roll it around until Monday. I got an ad on craigslist going so we will see if anything develops by then.

What is a good second option for a TTB 4x4 for exhaust?
 
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