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85 Ranger getting some teeth...


Took some quck pics on the way out the door this morning.

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It is a much cleaner engine than my '78 was when I got it, and I have the EFI stuff to peddle. :yahoo:
 
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If it's an 87 motor, it'll depend on what it came from. Look at the corner of the passenger side head in front, next to the valve cover. If there's a "T" there, it's got E7's. If there's an "S" there, they're E6's and the pistons won't have reliefs. Regardless if either, the 87 will be a roller block.

They have an S. I didn't see it hiding behind the A/C compresser bracket so I looked at the rear of the drivers side and I found it there, after knowing where to look I also saw it on the passenger side. Probably going to go ahead and poke it in like it is.

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It should be a roller motor, but it's definately not an HO motor. You can verify the cam by pulling one pushrod. The roller rods are 6.25" long. Flat tappet rods are about a half inch longer. A set of full roller 1.7 rockers would give it about 15 more horses. Other than that, not much else you can do, other than swap the cam out for an HO roller, or a B303. Porting the exhaust sides of the heads would do some good, but the heads are limited by the deep set valves and shrouded intake valves. A head swap will move the valves a full 1/8" closer to the pistons. This is why there's no reliefs, they didn't need em with those heads
 
I will probably will just watch for the rockers and plug them in whenever I find a set that rubs me right.

I am not really looking for a drag truck, just something that can keep up with rural traffic, not smoke like a cranked up diesel and sounds nice. The current engine fails at all three so bad I rarely drive it any more, which bugs the heck out of me because otherwise I love driving the truck.

Tomorrow I am going to slip it over to the shop and hit it with the Hotsy after work, then I can start stripping the EFI stuff off, change gaskets, paint, and fit it for carburation.
 
The block is a E7TE, which I think would make it a '87. I tore the driver side valve cover off and the intake (now stripped of all EFI stuff) and it is really really clean inside. Everything is just black, but absolutly no sludge anywhere. Diffinatly a roller, the contents of the lifter valley look completly different than my other two engines. Also at least in recent history factory plug wires are numbered per cylinder, even replacement Motorcraft wires are not numbered. If you look at the last pic they are numbered... kinda wonder just how many miles are on this thing

Going to pull the front cover to change the gasket and check out the timing chain, and drop the pan to change the gasket and seals... then time for paint.

Might have a line on a cam too, what kind of increase would a HO or B303 came give me? Would the difference in cams make the difference in rockers worth more power too? (say a 15hp increase with stock cam, 20hp increase with a HO came?)

Really liking what I am finding in this engine... so far. :secret:
 
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Adding an HO roller will boost it to about 200, or whatever the 86 HO motor was rated at. What you have is basically an 86 HO minus the cam. A B303 will give it a few more horses, exactly what I can't say. The 15 horse figure for the 1.7 full roller rockers are what Ford found in building the 93 Cobra motor.
 
What base do I need for the oil filter? I was going to order some stuff from Summit, and the number (PRM-1211) in the swap article is no good (the block one works out fine though)

It doesn't work on Jegs either, was it discontinued? They have both the right and left mounts, but not the ones that go straight up... would the left one work ok? I can use angled swivel fittings when I make the hoses but I would rather not if I didn't have to.
 
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I know the hose in that kit isn't the best you can get (I replaced mine with locally made hydraulic hose) but was just getting you the part number on short time.
 
Try looking at Trans Dapt too, they're the one's making the block adapter for Ford.
 
I know the hose in that kit isn't the best you can get (I replaced mine with locally made hydraulic hose) but was just getting you the part number on short time.

Yeah, and I appreciate that too. I was just commenting on the price of the two parts that are really worth anything seperate and with some barb fittings, hose clamps and hose which really are pretty cheap about anywhere.

I work at a tractor repair shop, 2 wire Pioneer Farmex II is what we use for hydraulic hoses... and what I will probably use for this.
 
Yep, get different hoses. The hoses with those adapters are pretty weak. I wore a tiny hole in one because the hose was ever so slightly rubbing the radiator bracket. I had a local hose shop cut me some good hydraulic hoses and no more problems.:icon_thumby:
 
That is usually what kills hydraulic hoses too, rubbing on stuff to the point of wearing a hole in them.

Otherwise it takes forever for them to die of natural causes... in a system that runs a heck of a lot more than 60psi and is exposed to the elements.
 
Cam fell thru, he got stupid and made his dad mad who then pitched his stock HO cam. After I get this done I want to get a 94-95 5.0 Mustang, and I would rather buy a sportier cam for it and stick the HO cam in this thing if I feel I need more power down the road.

I also want to know what I have for a engine before I sink a lot of money in it.

I got the new oil pump, oil pump driveshaft, pickup tube assembly, and timing set installed last night. Of course I couldn't find a locktite tube that had anything in it for the cam sprocket bolt so I was held up on getting the cover on. I have that in hand now, so hopefully I can get the cover, dampener and oil pan on tonight.

Still looking for an intake, but I gotta get the valve seals changed first anyway (maybe tomorrow night?). Once I get it all buttoned up I really need to give it a good bath again, I couldn't get the front very well with the accessories on.

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