Did Duraspark, keep burning up modules. Help!!

[The_Dealer]

i ended up getting it running, took my module out and took it to get tested, turned out it was bad, so they swapped it out for me, and im guessing when i accidentally wired in the brake lights it was doing wierd stuff to the module

heres my coil

before

afterwards

 

[The_Dealer]

got it running, made my metering block, and im having a few problems. i have my metering block set up about right. it feels kinda low on power though on the mid-upper rpms. also i had to cut my wires comming from the tranny, and i have the only ones in the 4 wire plug except the blue wire(have the red/lt blue, and the one for the reverse lights and all, but my t/c lockup isnt working. i had the lockup switch before the duraspark. the only wires comming from the trans that isnt wired up are the yellow ones and one red one

btw after i wired up everything correctly the 2 yellows and one red isnt wired up. where do they go? and why isnt my t/c toggle working?

also it has an erratic idle and stalls when i stop quick. i have all the vacuum lines that arent used capped off, inluding the one going from the back of the carb to the choke heater thingy. how do i adjust with the 2 screws on the bottom of the carb at the front?

 

[Twister]

Hey, looks good. Where did you wire those three wires from the tranny? I have those wire and dont know what to do with them. Will it matter if i snip them because i am going to switch to a tk4 anyway?

 

[dangerranger83]

Looks good, now you need to take the EGR off (that's still on my todo list).

 

[kimcrwbr1]

got it running, made my metering block, and im having a few problems. i have my metering block set up about right. it feels kinda low on power though on the mid-upper rpms. also i had to cut my wires comming from the tranny, and i have the only ones in the 4 wire plug except the blue wire(have the red/lt blue, and the one for the reverse lights and all, but my t/c lockup isnt working. i had the lockup switch before the duraspark. the only wires comming from the trans that isnt wired up are the yellow ones and one red one

btw after i wired up everything correctly the 2 yellows and one red isnt wired up. where do they go? and why isnt my t/c toggle working?

also it has an erratic idle and stalls when i stop quick. i have all the vacuum lines that arent used capped off, inluding the one going from the back of the carb to the choke heater thingy. how do i adjust with the 2 screws on the bottom of the carb at the front?

The Idle air screws on the bottom of the carb turn them both out from the lightly seated position 2 turns. Get the engine up to temp with the choke all the way open. There are two ways to adjust them turn them out for the highest vacuum or the highest rpm. drop the curb idle to around 800 rpm and check them then turn the engine off and make sure they are within 1/2 turn between them. count the turns in to the lightly seated position then back out. Check the timing it should be 10 btdc with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. You do have the advance from the dizzy to the vacuum tree you will see a huge improvment when you get the idle air correct. Then you can focus on the choke.

 

[The_Dealer]

Hey, looks good. Where did you wire those three wires from the tranny? I have those wire and dont know what to do with them. Will it matter if i snip them because i am going to switch to a tk4 anyway?

i wired the red/lt blue into the red/lt blues going into my duraspark plug, the yellow and blue wires i left alone, and the solid red i wired to my batter(to get current to my t/c lockup, which works now like it did before. i got everything adjusted right and its running pretty dam good. one more thing, on my metering block i made the holes go all the way through, but put the solenoid back on, is there anything wrong with this? when i was making it i didnt notice the holes didnt go through. on my egr i bought a 98 cent aluminum for sale sign from walmart and cut out a block plate with scissors, lol. thats all i had access to at the time. i got some 1/8" metal im gonna make a rear egr delete with but havent had time. still need to get my timing dead on, the light i was using burned out so i timed it by ear. its pretty nice to be able to pull a trailer with a mower 65mph. wasnt able to do it before. i would like to find a non feedback carb to use

 

[The_Dealer]

The Idle air screws on the bottom of the carb turn them both out from the lightly seated position 2 turns. Get the engine up to temp with the choke all the way open. There are two ways to adjust them turn them out for the highest vacuum or the highest rpm. drop the curb idle to around 800 rpm and check them then turn the engine off and make sure they are within 1/2 turn between them. count the turns in to the lightly seated position then back out. Check the timing it should be 10 btdc with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. You do have the advance from the dizzy to the vacuum tree you will see a huge improvment when you get the idle air correct. Then you can focus on the choke.

i have the choke off for right now, it kept getting stuck open, and yea im using the advance from the vacuum t.

 

[dangerranger83]

My choke won't open up more then half way so I'm going to be going with a manual choke. Thats even with the engine being at 210 degrees ( that seem high to anybody, only got to 190 with my TBI I had on it, got to 230 one day after I shut her down with the duraspark setup).

 

[Twister]

Mine sits at 190-195 driving around. Afetr driving it around and I turn it off it will rise to about 210-220. But goes right back down if I start the truck.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Is your T-stat on the lower hose or the intake manifold. I found a t-stat housing that goes on the upper hose and the engine temps stay alot closer from running to stopped. I believe the two piece housing came off a 85 B-II with A/C I just stumbled on it at the bone yard. It has a 1" nipple on it for the bypass and I just plugged the 3/4" bypass that comes off the intake manifold. With a 195 stat in it the guage runs at or below mid range.

 

[Twister]

I got a brand new water pump, new t stat and an explorer rad and it keeps it really cool.

 

[dangerranger83]

Mine has a new t stat, and a rad. from a ranger that had an a/c unit. But I stumbled across an aerostar that has a 2.8 and has the setup that puts the t stat up above in my local j/y. Plus it as the headers on it that I want.

 

[Twister]

Mine has a new t stat, and a rad. from a ranger that had an a/c unit. But I stumbled across an aerostar that has a 2.8 and has the setup that puts the t stat up above in my local j/y. Plus it as the headers on it that I want.

Not fair, i want headers from an aerostar .

 

[Shran]

My choke won't open up more then half way so I'm going to be going with a manual choke. Thats even with the engine being at 210 degrees ( that seem high to anybody, only got to 190 with my TBI I had on it, got to 230 one day after I shut her down with the duraspark setup).

210 is a little warm, could be due to the choke though (running rich)

Mine sits at 190-195 driving around. Afetr driving it around and I turn it off it will rise to about 210-220. But goes right back down if I start the truck.

That's completely normal.

 

[dangerranger83]

I'm told that a vehicle that runs rich runs cooler (that's what my old TBI system was doing). That's why I'm going to buy a narrow band guage so I can get an idea of where it is.

The thing with aerostar headers is they can be a PITA to get off due to limited space under the hood and this one I know of has been sitting for years so it is surrounded by trees, bushes, etc...but one day I'll go get them the guys that own the j/y don't know about it and don't know that it has a 2.8. I don't think I could get my manifolds off my engine anyways, but I know my dads will come off easily due to having to change the manifold gaskets a year ago and covering the bolts in anti sieze. Plus my dad is getting a new (to him) ranger in another year so I'm going to be buying his off of him.