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Hot Water Bypass


tedrisch

Active Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2009
Messages
32
Vehicle Year
1999
Transmission
Automatic
anyone out there know how to do this? what to gain?
 
There are two small hoses that run from the heater hoses to the intake manifold, which circulates hot water through the manifold. Some folks block the small hoses off for a reduction of temperature in the intake manifold (one guy took before and after temp readings on his intake manifold and found that the by-pass mod significantly reduced the manifold's temperature).
Does doing the mod give a performance increase? After doing the mod I didn't really notice much of a before-and-after performance difference with my truck, but 3.0's are known for their pinging, and I've got to believe that lowering the engine's incoming air temperature will at least a little bit help to reduce pinging.
 
I did this mod last year and didn't notice enough difference to do it again. The 180 t-stat on the other hand makes a world of difference. If you're having pinging issues, do the 180 t-stat and don't bother with the HWBP.
 
I did this mod last year and didn't notice enough difference to do it again. The 180 t-stat on the other hand makes a world of difference. If you're having pinging issues, do the 180 t-stat and don't bother with the HWBP.
+1. HWBP did nothing for me, but the 180°F thermostat silenced the ping once and for all.

The HWBP doesn't really hurt, though, and in fact takes all of 30 seconds to do. Just yank the two small coolant hoses from the intake, and stick them together with a double male hose barb (a.k.a. hose splicer/coupler). Then use air to evacuate the coolant from the intake, and cap off the hose nipples if you like with vacuum caps.
 
No bad effects for me as well. The newer composite intake keeps the TB cooler than the Aluminum intake would would with the HWBP mod done. TB icing isn't an issue regardless.
 
thanks guys. I will definatelty try the 180 t-stat. I am still not completely sold on the whole hwbp approach
 
I did HWBP simply to eliminate the T's during routine maintenance replacing all the hoses.

Used regular 5/8" hose for the heater hoses.

180* T'stat caused mine to produce a lot of carbon, making the IAC less effective, forcing me to clean it at every oil change. I ran the 180* for quite a while, but it runs BETTER with the 193* and a good DPFE.

If it's pinging Ted, look for EGR problems or carbon build up (SeaFoam it).
 
Guys if your ride is pinging repair the problem! The hwbp is simply covering up what the problem is..
Using a 180* thermostat keeps the engine lower than it's engineered operating temperature.. If the engine did BETTER at a lower temp FORD would have put the 180* in it for you!
I betcha with the hwbp you sometimes get raw liquid gasoline in the chamber which will wash the oil off of the cylinder walls...the result will be much quicker wear of both the walls and the rings.
The hot manifold is there for several reasons bypassing it or lowering the temp is causing problems you woin't see until it is too late..
Why do guys try to reengineer their engines? Ford KNEW what they were doing!
Big JIm
 
I agree with you big jim in most respects, but can you really say that ford knew what they were doing all the time? Non of their motors last as long as other companies unless you work on the thing every weekend but then you spend more time under it than in it, just off the top of my head, the syncro is poorly built and could last for 150,000 miles or might go at 40,000 grenading your motor, head gaskets go for no good reason sometimes and usually crack the head, to do an oil pan gasket you have to pull the whole freakin motor(which seems to be fords way of doing things anyway), their auto tranny's suck, their 4wd systems suck, they ping like crazy, they carbon up like crazy,these are just a few design flaws that keep them low on the reliability scale. Like I said I agree with you in most reguards but ford has given many reason to question their engineering in most of their vehicles.
 
Non of their motors last as long as other companies unless you work on the thing every weekend but then you spend more time under it than in it
You're kidding, right? The 3.0L Vulcan, if nothing else, is one of the most durable engines ever built. The damn things go for 200K+ miles with oil changes and little else.
 
Huh.... after installing a *180 T-stat and doing the HWBP my engine runs better, pings less, makes more power, gets better gas mileage, and because it runs cooler will last longer - but hey, I guess Ford knows best, so maybe this weekend I'll undo the HWBP and reinstall the stock T-stat and go back to the pinging and sluggishness and what-not.
 
You're kidding, right? The 3.0L Vulcan, if nothing else, is one of the most durable engines ever built. The damn things go for 200K+ miles with oil changes and little else.


Your exactly correct, I dont know many engines that would take almost 20 psi on stock internals for as long as my original 3.0 did, And when it did break it was a rod bolt that stretched & caused the damage. Really tuff little motors.

JP02XLT
 

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