Enclosed trailers


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Yeah come spring im going to enclose it....im thinking about doing plexiglass over the side windows and metal on the back. Patch the one bad spot, straighten some of the metal up front (one spot is weirdly peeled bach an inch or two...not rusty, but like someone took a prybar to it), and paint it. The floors solid but looks like shit....ill powerwash it see how it comes out but i may replace it at somepoint

All kidding aside, on the floor:

Test it with the pressure washer in a couple of corners and see if it’s worth saving, or if you’re just going to blow through it. If it’s solid enough for your needs, put it in the sun and let it get bone dry. I mean really bone dry.

Take the rustoleum, and mix it 50-50 with mineral spirits, and mop it on. It’s very thick out of the can, a fantastic encapsulant, but if you thin it down, it will wick into all of the pores and holes in that wood, make it stronger and seal it up. Maybe do it twice if it’s very spongy. And then put a full strength coat on the top. I’ve saved all kinds of shaky things over the years doing that.

My two cents hope it helps
 
All kidding aside, on the floor:

Test it with the pressure washer in a couple of corners and see if it’s worth saving, or if you’re just going to blow through it. If it’s solid enough for your needs, put it in the sun and let it get bone dry. I mean really bone dry.

Take the rustoleum, and mix it 50-50 with mineral spirits, and mop it on. It’s very thick out of the can, a fantastic encapsulant, but if you thin it down, it will wick into all of the pores and holes in that wood, make it stronger and seal it up. Maybe do it twice if it’s very spongy. And then put a full strength coat on the top. I’ve saved all kinds of shaky things over the years doing that.

My two cents hope it helps

An afterthought, and a general statement. I think you guys all know that when I say rustoleum, I really mean rustoleum, not just oil base paint. Rustoleum is made with a fish oil base, and in more modern times it has some synthetics added to it. The organic fish oil base is what makes it such an incredible product. If there’s any little kind of crud or film on a surface, it works with it and through it to adhere and seal better. And although it’s designed for metal, when you put it on a vinyl or any kind of wood, those organic characteristics create a much better bond. And when you thin it down like I’ve described a few times, it will wick into every tiny nook and cranny. And then, if you coat it within a few hours before it totally sets, the topcoat will blend and bond to the bottom coat 100%, so there are no “layers” that can peel.

And I don’t mean the rattle cans. Those are for little girls in art class. If you want this smooth, finish, put it in a spray, gun and spray it. The rattle can is for looks, temporary, and doesn’t provide the same protection and strength.

I’ll have to follow up on this, I have to go get my royalty check with a wheelbarrow now
 
An afterthought, and a general statement. I think you guys all know that when I say rustoleum, I really mean rustoleum, not just oil base paint. Rustoleum is made with a fish oil base, and in more modern times it has some synthetics added to it. The organic fish oil base is what makes it such an incredible product. If there’s any little kind of crud or film on a surface, it works with it and through it to adhere and seal better. And although it’s designed for metal, when you put it on a vinyl or any kind of wood, those organic characteristics create a much better bond. And when you thin it down like I’ve described a few times, it will wick into every tiny nook and cranny. And then, if you coat it within a few hours before it totally sets, the topcoat will blend and bond to the bottom coat 100%, so there are no “layers” that can peel.

And I don’t mean the rattle cans. Those are for little girls in art class. If you want this smooth, finish, put it in a spray, gun and spray it. The rattle can is for looks, temporary, and doesn’t provide the same protection and strength.

I’ll have to follow up on this, I have to go get my royalty check with a wheelbarrow now


this is a thing...specifically oil field when i was younger and what was put on my chassis back in 95 was the heavy rust primer. this typically has the fish oil base. that base does go to metal which is weird but what it is.

i would binks gun or paint pump it though for a heavy applicaton as described. air sprayers are for sissy girl work and pretty things :thefinger: :thefinger:
 
Yeah come spring im going to enclose it....im thinking about doing plexiglass over the side windows and metal on the back. Patch the one bad spot, straighten some of the metal up front (one spot is weirdly peeled bach an inch or two...not rusty, but like someone took a prybar to it), and paint it. The floors solid but looks like shit....ill powerwash it see how it comes out but i may replace it at somepoint
Powerwash, treat with used oil/diesel blend. Saturate it, hotter the weather the better. Let it soak in/flash off, coat it again. Repeat 3-4x, until it absolutely will not absorb any more. Mix in foliar copper fungicide if needed. You can also add Rustoleum to the mix for a bit extra protection.
 
Powerwash, treat with used oil/diesel blend.

Wash it but no need to treat with used oil if Rusty is parking his toys on top of it. :icon_rofl:

We did that to our old wood floor manure spreader when we were kids, it lasted forever and didn't have a roof at all.
 
An afterthought, and a general statement. I think you guys all know that when I say rustoleum, I really mean rustoleum, not just oil base paint. Rustoleum is made with a fish oil base, and in more modern times it has some synthetics added to it. The organic fish oil base is what makes it such an incredible product. If there’s any little kind of crud or film on a surface, it works with it and through it to adhere and seal better. And although it’s designed for metal, when you put it on a vinyl or any kind of wood, those organic characteristics create a much better bond. And when you thin it down like I’ve described a few times, it will wick into every tiny nook and cranny. And then, if you coat it within a few hours before it totally sets, the topcoat will blend and bond to the bottom coat 100%, so there are no “layers” that can peel.

And I don’t mean the rattle cans. Those are for little girls in art class. If you want this smooth, finish, put it in a spray, gun and spray it. The rattle can is for looks, temporary, and doesn’t provide the same protection and strength.

I’ll have to follow up on this, I have to go get my royalty check with a wheelbarrow now

You guys are hurting my feelings by laughing at this one. I joke about everything, but I was dead serious on this one.
 
Welp i got the thing home. Ill post pics tomorrow or sat when its daylight.

First off, i dragged it to my uncles house who lived about 10mi from where i bought it. I thought the wheelbearings were shot and i didnt wanna deal with that on the 90min ride home that included interstate. Pulled the hubs off and instead of a cotter pin they have a weird tab thing to bend over....those were installed incorrect.

Fixed that....aired up the tires good....half assed some lights...and away we went.

First off....this is the smoothest pulling trailer ive ever had. My big equipment trailer (granted its much more heavy duty) bounces around like a buckboard, this has torsion axles and you never knew it was back there unless you looked in the mirror.

The ancient, mismatched 235/75/15 truck tires will have to go....its got a uniroyal laredo on it...when the last time you seen one of those?

It was raining when i picked it up...the roof has a couple leaky small holes that need patched.

The pinholed rust on the wall in one spot (likely mostly from horse/cow piss splash) turned to one big hole with a pile of dust inside by the time i got home.

Other then that...im very happy. For some reason i got better mileage towing this then i do my open trailer. I usually average 10-11 towing the open trailer empty...i was at 13.5 with this thing. Granted i kept it at 60-65 but still.

For sure needs some work but i think shes got good bones. Also after some research i dont think its as old as i thought...i figured late 80s/early 90s but i found a website on the vin tag. Im gonna run the vin tomorrow. From what i gathered online its a ponderosa "poorboy" and was built from like 03-2011 when ponderosa folded. It was their bare bones economy model.

Anyways...just thought id share
 

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