93 Splash in SC, V8-Swap version

[PlumCrazy]

The later Explorers had cast manifolds.

I have headers, aside from the ball socket joint continuously working loose (metal lock nut with a regular nut double nutted, fine thread gr8 bolts to maintain any kind of a seal) and the header bolts continuously backing out and no off the shelf y pipe known to man fitting them they work great.

Part of my pretrip routine every year is retorquing all the header bolts so they get done once a year. I lost one bolt out of the head I think it was the first year we to Kentucky.

I'd have to look at what the application was but I bought some"Ford" retainers that you bolt down the header then bend some tabs to hold the bolts in place.

Anything I own with actual tubular headers I have bought Stage 8 header bolts. They have a 12-point teardrop piece you slide onto the bolt head followed by a snap ring to keep them from backing out

 

[Curious Hound]

I am running some 289 "log" manifolds from IDK what application on my 5.0 Ranger and they clear everything by a mile. I did swap to GT40 heads and sold off the GT40P heads that force you into the goofy manifolds/headers.

My passenger manifold exits straight back and my driver side aims down and back.

I recall buying a pair that were symmetrical but the driver's side pointing straight back was more hassle then it was worth, so I found a similar dr side manifold that exited more downward that wrapped around the oil pan perfectly between the trans and rear sump.

If you are interested I can take some pictures or dig some up. Probably wouldn't hurt to wake up that truck and pull it on to the lift for a spring time inspection anyway.

Going for log manifolds might be my best bet.

 

[Curious Hound]

I'd have to look at what the application was but I bought some"Ford" retainers that you bolt down the header then bend some tabs to hold the bolts in place.
View attachment 140213

Anything I own with actual tubular headers I have bought Stage 8 header bolts. They have a 12-point teardrop piece you slide onto the bolt head followed by a snap ring to keep them from backing out
View attachment 140212

Thank you for the pictures.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Thank you for the pictures.

I'll try to get more decenterish gooder ones this weekend. I did have to make my own y-pipe, but it honestly fell together with little effort.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Going for log manifolds might be my best bet.

289 manifolds fit really nice, guys even use them for 351W swaps.

I had a set I sold eons ago, I kinda wish I would have used them.

 

[Curious Hound]

I assume this is what I would be looking for.

 

[PlumCrazy]

I assume this is what I would be looking for.
View attachment 140238

That's the setup I have now.

I have an extra driver side that mirrors that pass side too

 

[PlumCrazy]

They do use an odd flange/ball socket at the collector that's tricky to find when it comes to building your own y-pipe. I bought some stainless down pipes from Pypes for a 67 Mustang or something and cut that flange off.lol. The rest of the pipes got up cycled into an LS400 exhaust.

Unless you get a set like you shared and they come with the cutoff chunk you need. That's all I kept off the brand new down pipes I bought

 

[Shran]

I used mid-late 70's truck 302 manifolds for my swap. They fit really nice and were dirt cheap. Some of them including mine have this extra little dumb ass piece with a flapper valve (looks like those Maverick ones have it built into the manifold.) It's not a big deal to remove but you need an extra gasket that's only available in a kit. So when you blow the donut gasket out, pray that you don't damage the gasket above it during disassembly or you're buying that kit as well.

 

[rubydist]

Do those 289 cast manifolds fit on the 1998+ trucks also, or just the older ones?